Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about
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Read the first page and saw there were 48 more so I decided to ask my question rather than keep reading. I have a poulan 5020 and I'm just wondering if anyone has modded the muffler and if so what'd you do exactly?
Ain't nothin in there to mod, you might make the outlet hole a little bigger.
To the best of my knowledge nobody has made any more power out of that saw, there has been a ton written about them, but it seems they are what they are. If you want another one, $100+ shipping will get you mine.
John
To the best of my knowledge nobody has made any more power out of that saw, there has been a ton written about them, but it seems they are what they are. If you want another one, $100+ shipping will get you mine.
John
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
I've been hoping someone would port one, but so far I haven't seen it.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
The one guy who seemed the most enthusiastic trying to port a 5020 ended up going through a divorce, then slowly faded away from AS.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Yes, I was remembering that as well.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
From all my reading here about the 5020--there are many threads scattered throughout AS--the best performance enhancement is:
Running a 16" bar instead of the "for marketing purposes" 20 inch bar.
Followed by a opening the exhaust exit a bit and retuning the saw.
I don't recall if anyone tried removing the factory cylinder gasket and replacing it with a thinner one or just sealant.
Running a 16" bar instead of the "for marketing purposes" 20 inch bar.
Followed by a opening the exhaust exit a bit and retuning the saw.
I don't recall if anyone tried removing the factory cylinder gasket and replacing it with a thinner one or just sealant.
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
It's a clamshell, but it could be modified like I did on my squish modded 42cc Poulans. The bearings are the same design so the cylinder could be cut and the bearing pockets ground out.
I did one clamshell like that, did all that grinding & sanding by hand and it turned out quite well, it was a long cold winter & I needed something to do to pass the time but I wouldn't want to do it again.
John
John
Hello guys,
I'm a newbie to both this site and also to chainsaws in general. I have some experience using a couple small borrowed saws (a Stihl and a Poulan 2150) but decided to buy my own as I generally don't like to borrow tools. I came across a lightly used PP5020AV on kijiji and found this thread, which seemed to indicate it was pretty ideal for my intended casual homeowner use - he was asking $150, I offered $100 and he agreed. While the scrench and case were MIA, it was a good deal considering they are $330 up here (believe it or not).
Now to my question - this thing spews bar and chain oil like crazy! I am using generic bar and chain oil from Canadian Tire (hardware store up here). My experience is quite limited as noted above, but this saw seeps oil out of the clutch cover seams when revving and is saturated/dripping oil from the bar/body in no time (whereas the other saws basically kept the chain nicely lubricated with no other notable mess/leakage). While I understand more oil is better than not enough, is this amount of oil usage normal for this model saw? I cleaned the bar plates and backside of the clutch cover (which were a mess when I first got it), but it made no real difference. From what I understand there is no adjustment for oil flow on this model?
Thanks in advance for any info/tips!
I'm a newbie to both this site and also to chainsaws in general. I have some experience using a couple small borrowed saws (a Stihl and a Poulan 2150) but decided to buy my own as I generally don't like to borrow tools. I came across a lightly used PP5020AV on kijiji and found this thread, which seemed to indicate it was pretty ideal for my intended casual homeowner use - he was asking $150, I offered $100 and he agreed. While the scrench and case were MIA, it was a good deal considering they are $330 up here (believe it or not).
Now to my question - this thing spews bar and chain oil like crazy! I am using generic bar and chain oil from Canadian Tire (hardware store up here). My experience is quite limited as noted above, but this saw seeps oil out of the clutch cover seams when revving and is saturated/dripping oil from the bar/body in no time (whereas the other saws basically kept the chain nicely lubricated with no other notable mess/leakage). While I understand more oil is better than not enough, is this amount of oil usage normal for this model saw? I cleaned the bar plates and backside of the clutch cover (which were a mess when I first got it), but it made no real difference. From what I understand there is no adjustment for oil flow on this model?
Thanks in advance for any info/tips!
If the engine is running it is pumping oil, the oil pump is run by the crankshaft not the clutch drum.
Don't let it run where you don't want an oil slick.
Don't let it run where you don't want an oil slick.
Thanks old guy - I did read that somewhere in this thread. It sounds like it isn't the norm and not a great design for obvious reasons.
I was hoping there was a way to modify the flow even though it wasn't designed to be adjustable but I think it is what it is... I'm going to see if I can track down a thicker bar oil to help slow it down.
I was hoping there was a way to modify the flow even though it wasn't designed to be adjustable but I think it is what it is... I'm going to see if I can track down a thicker bar oil to help slow it down.
A lot of the cheaper saws from all makers are made this way, however the 5020 seems to put out more than most.
Anybody have trouble on hot starts? After refuelling, mine would not start yesterday. Initially after I purchased the saw I added a partial turn out on the L screw. Seems to run great otherwise and I left the rest as is. It was hot out yesterday. Seemed to act vapor locked. Would not even pop with the choke off. Full choke gave me a short pop. Half choke would pop a few revelutions and quit. Until the saw cooled for 20-30 minutes it just would not start. Anyway if anybody has a recomendation let me know. Today I will take my splined adjuster wrench to fool with the carb and see if it possibly just needs more fuel on start up?
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
Sounds like vapor lock as you guessed. I've had seemingly endless discussions about that topic here on several threads - it's a very common issue but often misdiagnosed.
When hot starting after it runs on a hot day I have had better luck with pushing the primer bulb several times until the fuel flow looks good. (No foam) also make sure the air filter is clean. I have this saw and had similar issues. Air filter was more clogged than it looked. I blew mine out with my compressor with the pressure turned down a bit.
ncpete
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when I tuned mine when the carb tool finally showed up - it ran mostly great, started hot, cold, whatever. However, too many hours later, and the P&C needs replaced, should have tuned it earlier in its life. Someday, soon - will order the parts to rebuild it. maybe I will even figure out why my Poulan XX won't run, either, then.
Ran the saw yesterday and it ran great for a tank. Finished what needed cut. My air filter appears mostly plugged. Going to clean the filter and try it again. I did not adjust the carb yesterday. I think I had the saw too hot the day before.
