Chainsaw quit on me?

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why did you suspect faulty ring?
I suspected faulty piston/cylinder because of low compression. I looked through the exhaust port and it looked okay but that doesn't tell you everything, I had an 026 that looked great on the exhaust side but the intake side looked like someone hit it with a hammer. I don't know what caused it. The Dolmar looked good so I put a set of rings in it and the compression came back to normal.
 
I can't remember if the Dolmar piston had one ring or two, it's been a few months but I always lightly sand the cylinder with #400 paper, just enough to roughen up the glaze a bit but not enough to cut into the plating, seems to help the rings seat in. I've been using the saw around the house a bit and for 50cc it seems to be great.
 
Dropped the saw off at the other place last night. While I was there he put a little gas in the carb and gave it a few tugs and it fired repeatedly. So if the other dealer thought it was a bad coil how could it fire without spark? I am curious to the outcome to see what the issue is?
 
This is always hillarious reading about a bunch of guys complaining about prices of legit repair shops! You guys must live in some type of communist world if you believe that shop cost for chainsaw repairing is only ~80$!
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Welcome to the real world!

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You're right. The dealer needs the money so he can send his tech to a school to tell the difference between an air leak and a bad coil.
 
The problem with being a Mechanic, is you often don't know what the problem is until you fix it. They take their best guess and go from there. Sadly sometimes their best guess is not as good as what you can get off the internet.
 
the compression reading can be deceiving, could stihl be scored. 150# isn't great on a 5100, they often have 165 to 190#. what you described for symptoms makes me think air leak. first thing I would have done was pull the muffler. if it is scored and only slightly you probably could save the cyl. but continually pulling it over only makes it worse. as for the spark, just because it has spark and fires, it doesn't mean it's strong enough to start the saw under compression.
You can check the spark by opening the gap about 1/4 inch and turning it over with a drill and if the spark will jump the gap, it should run the saw.
Hope this helps.
Not that I know of, had good compression is what i know.
 
You're right. The dealer needs the money so he can send his tech to a school to tell the difference between an air leak and a bad coil.
That might be true, but over here they guarenty and warrenty their work! And the dealer is paying his tech, paying for his shop, paying taxes, etc. So show me how you are going to pay for all this for 80$....

7
 
I think you misread something, I don't see where anybody said the repair should cost $80.
That might be true, but over here they guarenty and warrenty their work! And the dealer is paying his tech, paying for his shop, paying taxes, etc. So show me how you are going to pay for all this for 80$....

7
 
This is the receipt I received from the first dealer yesterday. Hopefully you can read it.
 

Attachments

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Took this off my phone, didn't turn out like I wanted it to. I'm not the best computer feller in the world!
 
two things he should have done and didn't, pulled the muffler and checked for scoring, no sense in going any further if scored without checking with you on what you may be looking at for cost. also not checking for pulse when he had carb off. I assume he didn't or would have mentioned it.
but very very professional on his billing and explanation, makes mine look amateurish.
 

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