danw
ArboristSite Lurker
So I hear a lot of anecdotes, but has anyone ever tested the difference between .325 and 3/8? Anyone have a link?
Converted over to 3/8" pitch chain on my MS260 Pro
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MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I was just going by what some of the other members have posted, about how much trouble they have filing their .325's. I quit filing a couple of years ago, and we stopped taking our chains to dealers to be sharpened when A: They couldn't sharpen them evenly, and the saw all cut crooked, and B: they started charging $1 an inch to sharpen them!! The Pro grinder paid itself off in about a week!
MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I just read this whole thread! I'll never understand how people can justify taking from those who gave honest work to earn what they have. They will be judged someday, by a much higher authority than us, and their day of reckoning will come!
Many of the 'anecdotes' posted in this thread are shared personal experiences comparing the chains. Spend some time and search through other threads and you will find many other comparisons, including side-by-side tests on the same saws and the same logs, but they are still subject to interpretation.
Smaller pitch chain takes smaller bites, but take more of them and cuts smoother. Larger pitch chain takes bigger bites, but take fewer of them and cuts rougher. Any chain must be matched to the saw power to be effective.
Philbert
MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Does anyone have a link to a seller with 3/8 drive sprocket for the 260 pro? I'm not having much luck.
It's only a few bucks at any STIHL dealer, or from any of the A.S. sponsors.
http://www.baileysonline.com/search.asp?SKW=RSM+RSS+RSD&catID=262 Call and ask.
Philbert
MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do I only need to swap out the rim, or the clutch drum/sprocket as well? Sorry for sounding like a noob, but i've never had a .325 before.
You need a sprocket that is the same pitch as the chain to drive the chain. If you currently have rim sprocket and the clutch drum is OK, you only need to replace the rim sprocket if you mount a chain with a different pitch.
You DO know that your bar probably has a sprocket in the tip as well, right? If you change the pitch of your chain, you will need a new bar with the correct sprocket in the tip.
Go to a good saw shop or call one of the sponsors and ask them - they will set you up with what you need.
Philbert
MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Actually, it's a hard nose bar. Thanks for all of the input, but I already went out and bought the rim. I had to go to one of the farther shops to find one in stock, but I got it. Eight bucks well spent. Beats the heck out of buying all new chains!
riesenbr549
ArboristSite Member
Smart move IMO ! Have you seen the dealer price for .325 chain? the .375 same size is 5-6 bucks cheaper! ? Dont make no sense 2 me ? only thing i can figure stihl is sellin a lot more "homeowner" saws with .325 so supply and demand? thats why i went 2 .375 and never looked back!
dumbarky
ArboristSite Operative
Went to 3/8 pitch on my 026's long ago. Used the .325 until I wore out the chains they came with. Then I changed bars, sprockets and chains. I did this because I have a 036 and seen no reason to keep up two different size chains bars and sprockets. I run 3/8 pitch 18" bars on everything stihl 036, 026 pro, 026. I do have a 20" and chain setup for my 036 but rarely use it. I do a little for bigger logs but am seriously looking for something with some more hump for logging. I have always ran Husky's and Stihl's but am flexible. So thats why I went to 3/8. I also feel its much easier to sharpen. I quess it might be slower but you could always run lo-profile 3/8. I think the reason 3/8 is slower is due to the wider kerf and less cutters per inch of chain length. Not to sure about that but anyhoo. I couldn't tell enough difference to warrant running .325. But I am a weird codjer anyway I would rather (and I know im gonna regret this because someone will ##### slap me over it) run hard nose bars than sprocket nose. Yes I know they are slower but they are tough and you can dress them up with a stationary belt sander and file. They are usually double in price how ever. Anyhoo to each his own let the beatings begin.
riesenbr549
ArboristSite Member
X2 on the Hardnose bars" especially 18" or smaller . Im runnin a 16" dura bar. dad had 2brand new ones hanging in his shop that are older than me! They dont make em like they use to! I have noticed there are a lot of people that really defend the .325 chain on this site . I really cant figure that one out? There dealer prob told them its better cause its more expensive .... 
MostShady1
Addicted to ArboristSite
X2 on the Hardnose bars" especially 18" or smaller . Im runnin a 16" dura bar. dad had 2brand new ones hanging in his shop that are older than me! They dont make em like they use to! I have noticed there are a lot of people that really defend the .325 chain on this site . I really cant figure that one out? There dealer prob told them its better cause its more expensive ....
Yeah, my local dealer didn't dispute my change, but, since they didn't have the part in stock, I had to drive north. When I called them to say I was on my way, they said "they really didn't recommend running 3/8 on that size saw." I told them I was only running 16" bar/chain, and that my mind was made up, then they said, "yeah, you'll be fine with that." Funny what will make a sale, sometimes!
Like I've said before, I run 3/8 on a "Wild Thing" and it runs like a raped ape with a good chain, how can anyone say a 260 Pro won't?????
huskystihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
I agree but I actually buy oregon lp off a guy on ebay for about $60 for 5 chains. I love stihl chain in 3/8 but IMO sucks in .325 . I'm not an oregon fan in their larger sized chains but can get an awful lot of cutting time from the lp, actually saw troll turned me onto them so I was a tad skeptical but he was correct on this chain anyways. You may lose a fraction of a sec in cutting speed but seems to be an all around better chain in the long run resulting in less time with the bar in a vise which more than makes up for a fract of a sec. Not to mention half the price
MrJimH
ArboristSite Lurker
My preference MS 260, 16" pico, 63PS chain
Have a MS 260 & MS 362.
MS 260 with 3003 000 6313 16" pico bar & 0000 642 1241 8 tooth rim sprocket & 63PS-60 chain & muffler mod.
I think this will out cut either .325 or .375 chain.
I also use this bar & rim to run my 63PD-61 chain (carbide) to cut stumps flush with the ground, barn timber, fense row clearing, etc.
Also in a pinch I can put the pico bar & chain on my MS 362, tho there is no pico rim sprocket that will fit it.
My MS 362 18" 33RSF-66 & 24" 33RSF-84
Have a MS 260 & MS 362.
MS 260 with 3003 000 6313 16" pico bar & 0000 642 1241 8 tooth rim sprocket & 63PS-60 chain & muffler mod.
I think this will out cut either .325 or .375 chain.
I also use this bar & rim to run my 63PD-61 chain (carbide) to cut stumps flush with the ground, barn timber, fense row clearing, etc.
Also in a pinch I can put the pico bar & chain on my MS 362, tho there is no pico rim sprocket that will fit it.
My MS 362 18" 33RSF-66 & 24" 33RSF-84
MrJimH
ArboristSite Lurker
tallfarmboy
ArboristSite Guru
To each his own, but I switched my 260 Pro over to 3/8 chain mainly for the ease of having to only carry one file and have one grinder setup. This is my saw running 3/8" on a 16" bar in one of the hardest woods, Osage Orange (aka Hedge). It doesn't have any problems pulling it and seems to stay sharper longer than the .325 chain that I used to have.
[video=youtube_share;Xd7GiR4oiAk]http://youtu.be/Xd7GiR4oiAk[/video]
[video=youtube_share;Xd7GiR4oiAk]http://youtu.be/Xd7GiR4oiAk[/video]
3/8" chain for osage orange will last a lot longer than .325 in my experience. I have given the .325 a lot of chances and concluded that I just don't like it!!!
Better cutter options in 3/8 for less money, either oregon LGX, or stihl RS or RM. Just my opinion.
Better cutter options in 3/8 for less money, either oregon LGX, or stihl RS or RM. Just my opinion.
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