500i bar choice

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Jp_over

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Friends,

I manage (hobby farm) 16 wooded acres and am looking at adding a 500i with a couple of bars. I already have an MS 261CM with a 16” bar for smaller jobs.

I’ve heard Stihl is moving away from the .063 gauge on the 3/8 pitch saws. Any confirmation on this? It’s a bit tough to find .063 3/8 stuff when ordering new.

With this background I’m considering these bars for the 500i:

32” 3/8 pitch .050 with the RM semi chisel
25” 3/8 pitch .050 gauge, also semi chisel

Mostly I cut large pine 28”+ (felling, bucking) with less frequent smaller oak and sweet gum (12-20”).

Overall goal is forest health and emergency cleanup after storms. I like to cut several days per week since I’m retired and try to stay active.

Of note, we have lots of big pine on the ground and standing with tops sheered off from a big storm last year so lots of cutting ahead.

Thanks for any input. To rehash:

1) Is .050 the new standard for Stihl 3/8 chain and bars or is this regional?

2) I’m confident that the 25” bar is a good match but wonder if the 32” will be ok without the wrap handle and the improved AV kit folks seem to like from west coast saw.
 
On the 500 I would definitely upgrade the front lower AV spring to the 660 spring. Far as chain gauge goes it has more to do with the size of the power head vs chain pitch. 500 is fine with .050 but anything bigger (661 for example) .063 is what you wanna run.
 
On the 500 I would definitely upgrade the front lower AV spring to the 660 spring. Far as chain gauge goes it has more to do with the size of the power head vs chain pitch. 500 is fine with .050 but anything bigger (661 for example) .063 is what you wanna run.
I haven't had any issues with the AV springs running a 28" light bar my 500i R. Also came from the dealer with a .063 bar. I bought a 261C the same day and it came with a .063 bar too. I will have to ask the dealer about why he went with .063.
 
I'm older retired too, run a 25 light bar on my 500i and really happy with it. Stock is fine for me haven't felt the need to mod or change anything. Get the saw run it a bit and see what you think it needs, a lotta internet hype on gotta mod everything. The 500 to me fills a sweet spot it has near 661 performance and 3 pounds lighter which is a big deal to an older guy. If a guy was milling the 661 probably a better option. I'm just cutting firewood to keep my cabin warm if I used a saw as a pro everyday I'm sure my opinion would be different.
 
In that kind of wood a 500 will pull a 32" bar just fine. Do yourself a favor and use full skip chain; it pulls easier and there are fewer teeth when it comes time to sharpen.
The full or 3/4 wrap handle is nice if you're working steep terrain and have to make both the face cut and the back cut from the same side of the tree. Otherwise, (IMO) it doesn't have much to do with the length of the bar. If you want to be able to flush cut stumps a full wrap will be in your way.
 
.050 has always been the standard here for Stihl. I ran an 066 for 20+ years with 25” .050 in hardwood, never had an issue.
Now I run 3-500i’s with 25” light bars and also have a tsumura 32” light when needed (about once every 3 years). Plus a 462 with a 20” light bar on it.
I have a skip tooth and square ground chain only for felling so as I don’t hit something in the ground with them.
I also have a grinder and about 30-25” stihl chain so not too worried about always having sharp chain around. Spend a few hours on rainy days sharpening.
 
All,

I appreciate the detailed feedback. I've looked at the 661 CM as well and will give the 2 saws another look/comparison as well as give all your comments/experience some additional thought.
 
All,

I appreciate the detailed feedback. I've looked at the 661 CM as well and will give the 2 saws another look/comparison as well as give all your comments/experience some additional thought.
The 661 is a lot heavier, I prefer the 500! And get the .050 gauge bars and chains for it .
 
I run a Standard 36" Bar on my 500, with the stiffer AV/Suspension and holds up pretty good, wobbles a bit.

Mad3400
 
What is the advantage of.050 over.063 or vice versa on the chain. I have a ms290 391 and going to get a 400 and they all have the .063 gauge. Thanks
 
What is the advantage of.050 over.063 or vice versa on the chain. I have a ms290 391 and going to get a 400 and they all have the .063 gauge. Thanks
The .063 has more width, it's stronger and less flimsy especially with the longer bars and gives you a bit more of a gap if you get the bar pinched for a wedge, but I wouldn't know since I Never got in a situation like that to test the Theory...

Mad3400
 
What is the advantage of.050 over.063 or vice versa on the chain. I have a ms290 391 and going to get a 400 and they all have the .063 gauge. Thanks
Mainly, weight on a saw this size.
.063 on small saws is just stupid, imo
I only run .063 on a 42", 404 bar.
Everything else is .050
 
Mainly, weight on a saw this size.
.063 on small saws is just stupid, imo
I only run .063 on a 42", 404 bar.
Everything else is .050
Hmmm. Makes you wonder why they put the heavier chain on from the factory if it’s not needed for some reason
 
Gauge is mostly a regional thing. I have always ran .050 with 3/8" chain. This allows you to bump up to .058 and .063 as the bar wears.
Gauge does seem to be regional and also has to do with what the distributors push. In the Midwest, Tilton used to put .58 ga. on everything but 3/8 lp equipped saws, and at the time, our Dolmar and Husqvarna distributors pushed mostly .50 ga. I spent time in SE Alaska where .63 ga. was predominant. In Oregon, it seems to me to be about even between 63 and .50.
Is the difference in strength between a .50 ga driver and a .63 ga. driver even a thing? In 60+ years of running chainsaws I can't remember ever breaking a driver which is the only part of the chain that the ga. refers to. I've broken lots of side links and some teeth, but not drivers. I believe that .50 ga might wear into the sprocket more quickly, but not enough to make me resist using it.
As far as the difference in weight goes, I think it's minimal enough as to not matter. My 090G in the picture has a 96" bar with 265 drivers of .404 .63 ga chain and the whole chain only weighs a little over three pounds.
 

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Gauge does seem to be regional and also has to do with what the distributors push. In the Midwest, Tilton used to put .58 ga. on everything but 3/8 lp equipped saws, and at the time, our Dolmar and Husqvarna distributors pushed mostly .50 ga. I spent time in SE Alaska where .63 ga. was predominant. In Oregon, it seems to me to be about even between 63 and .50.
Is the difference in strength between a .50 ga driver and a .63 ga. driver even a thing? In 60+ years of running chainsaws I can't remember ever breaking a driver which is the only part of the chain that the ga. refers to. I've broken lots of side links and some teeth, but not drivers. I believe that .50 ga might wear into the sprocket more quickly, but not enough to make me resist using it.
As far as the difference in weight goes, I think it's minimal enough as to not matter. My 090G in the picture has a 98" bar with 265 drivers of .404 .63 ga chain and the whole chain only weighs a little over three pounds.
I don't think Guage matters at all. Other than the ability to run the next thicker gauge in a worn out bar.
 

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