Craftsman 2.0 Lightweight Chainsaw

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hpmax

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I have a chainsaw that I bought several years ago for $20. I've used it in the past, but very infrequently. I'm wondering three things:

1) What's the "knob" looking thing on the right side of the saw. It doesn't rotate, it just moves front and back, it doesn't seem to do anything.
2) How do I add oil to the saw (chain/bar oil, not 2 stroke oil)?
3) I've had the saw for a long time, but use it very occasionally. It was stored with no fuel in the tank. I think the last time I used it was maybe 2 years ago. I filled it Monday night. I put in a cup of gas, and estimated the oil amount as I don't have a proper mixer, but I think I got it about right. I couldn't get it started. I tried again to start it on Tuesday evening, unsuccessfully. Today I tried again, and after several pulls with the choke on it seemed like it might have been trying to start. I switched the choke off, and pulled a bunch more time, and after maybe another 6 pulls, it started and stalled. I pulled again and it started and could run but idle was kind of questionable.

The gasoline was a few months old. I last used it about 2 weeks ago in my lawn mower. Lawn mower started on the first pull as it usually does if I prime it a few times before trying.

2hobj0y.jpg
 
Bar oil cap is below and left of recoil - looks like an old Briggs oil cap. Knob is probably a chain sharpener-I wouldn't use it. Probably needs new fuel pickup, lines, carb cleaning and maybe rebuild kit - esp if you have ethanol in gas. You could try a healthy dose of seafoam in fuel mix and see if carb delivers fuel better.
 
The knob is for the Power Sharp option, a special chain is required. The fuel lines on those are long and routed through the handle, replace the line and filter and rebuild the carb. Also check the air filter, they are foam and known to desintegrate.
 
Thanks everyone for the information. I'm not real surprised its a clog of some sort. I have really bad luck with small 2 stroke engines. I kind of assumed the problem was getting fuel since its either fuel, spark, or compression, and it had compression, and it seems real unlikely that spark just suddenly went bad. But it did surprise me a bit because:

1) I spent a half hour trying to start it Monday night, and then another 10-15 minutes on Tuesday, and then after a couple minutes I got it started on Friday. I'm not clear why it would have suddenly gotten better unless the fuel some how cleaned out the gunk just from sitting like that, but I thought it was generally the exact opposite.
2) I stored the thing with no fuel in it. As in, I ran the thing dry and then tried to start it a few times -- dunno what else I could do to keep it pristine.

The sharpener thing is interesting. Literally it just seems like a short lever that moves back and forth and moves without resistance. I guess it probably behaves a bit different with the saw running, not sure I've ever tried.

I really dread the idea of cleaning the thing. I hate disassembling those little things and worrying about where this screw or that line went, etc. How bad is it to clean/rebuild? I've successfully cleaned the carb on my lawn mower, but like I said, 2 stroke stuff scares me. It seems very very finicky. Does putting Seafoam in it really help that much? If so, what mixture should I use?
 
Thanks everyone for the information. I'm not real surprised its a clog of some sort. I have really bad luck with small 2 stroke engines. I kind of assumed the problem was getting fuel since its either fuel, spark, or compression, and it had compression, and it seems real unlikely that spark just suddenly went bad. But it did surprise me a bit because:

1) I spent a half hour trying to start it Monday night, and then another 10-15 minutes on Tuesday, and then after a couple minutes I got it started on Friday. I'm not clear why it would have suddenly gotten better unless the fuel some how cleaned out the gunk just from sitting like that, but I thought it was generally the exact opposite.
2) I stored the thing with no fuel in it. As in, I ran the thing dry and then tried to start it a few times -- dunno what else I could do to keep it pristine.

The sharpener thing is interesting. Literally it just seems like a short lever that moves back and forth and moves without resistance. I guess it probably behaves a bit different with the saw running, not sure I've ever tried.

I really dread the idea of cleaning the thing. I hate disassembling those little things and worrying about where this screw or that line went, etc. How bad is it to clean/rebuild? I've successfully cleaned the carb on my lawn mower, but like I said, 2 stroke stuff scares me. It seems very very finicky. Does putting Seafoam in it really help that much? If so, what mixture should I use?

There should be a spot where the lever locks in place. The older version I had did, so I've got to believe yours does also.
 
Thanks everyone for the information. I'm not real surprised its a clog of some sort. I have really bad luck with small 2 stroke engines. I kind of assumed the problem was getting fuel since its either fuel, spark, or compression, and it had compression, and it seems real unlikely that spark just suddenly went bad. But it did surprise me a bit because:

1) I spent a half hour trying to start it Monday night, and then another 10-15 minutes on Tuesday, and then after a couple minutes I got it started on Friday. I'm not clear why it would have suddenly gotten better unless the fuel some how cleaned out the gunk just from sitting like that, but I thought it was generally the exact opposite.
2) I stored the thing with no fuel in it. As in, I ran the thing dry and then tried to start it a few times -- dunno what else I could do to keep it pristine.

The sharpener thing is interesting. Literally it just seems like a short lever that moves back and forth and moves without resistance. I guess it probably behaves a bit different with the saw running, not sure I've ever tried.

I really dread the idea of cleaning the thing. I hate disassembling those little things and worrying about where this screw or that line went, etc. How bad is it to clean/rebuild? I've successfully cleaned the carb on my lawn mower, but like I said, 2 stroke stuff scares me. It seems very very finicky. Does putting Seafoam in it really help that much? If so, what mixture should I use?

this saw has a fuel line from the tank to the carb that insanely long so it can take a lot of pulls on the string to get fuel to the carb after sitting for an extended period. also there is a plastic fitting, a double barb, where the rear handle meets the plastic case, above the fuel tank. the resins in the fuel line were never intended to resist ethanol and often crack or break off at that little fitting. you need to replace the entire fuel line from the filter to the carb, filter too,.be sure to find tubing that is resistant to ethanol. all that being said, these saws, which were marketed as poulan craftsman, dolmar, jonsered and others, are tricky to keep running. they use a poorly designed reeed valve instead of piston porting. you might be better off finding a more modern saw in the 30cc to 45cc range. it might be cheaper than repairng your antique.

the knob you asked about is a chain sharpener that never worked. if you use it you will ruin your chain.
 
Sounds like I should just bite the bullet, open the thing up and replace the line? Where do you get the line and/or filter?
 
Sears service center would be your first choice. Armed with the model #, belly up to the counter.

I've seen the fuel line, filter and primer bulb blister pack hanging in Ace Hardware and O'Reilleys for the Poulan rear handle saws.

Ace has bulk fuel line.
 
Sears service center would be your first choice. Armed with the model #, belly up to the counter.

I've seen the fuel line, filter and primer bulb blister pack hanging in Ace Hardware and O'Reilleys for the Poulan rear handle saws.

Ace has bulk fuel line.

Does the Ace line handle ethanol?

Primer bulb!? I see no primer bulb nor did I see mention on the documentation. I thought you primed by pull starting with the choke on.

What's involved in the carb rebuild? The only carb rebuilds I've done are on my B&S lawnmower engine which basically involved me removing the screw that holds the bowl in and then removing and ultrasonically cleaning the 4 or 5 components.
 
Does the Ace line handle ethanol?

Primer bulb!? I see no primer bulb nor did I see mention on the documentation. I thought you primed by pull starting with the choke on.

What's involved in the carb rebuild? The only carb rebuilds I've done are on my B&S lawnmower engine which basically involved me removing the screw that holds the bowl in and then removing and ultrasonically cleaning the 4 or 5 components.

There is no primer bulb. driver was only wishing for one. actually a bulb would probably make it worse by increasing the amount of line and places where leaks can happen. if your fuel lines are in good shape that saw will prime in three pulls.

I don't know if the Ace line handles ethanol. that's why i would avoid it. if it's cheap, no, probably not. if it's expensive, maybe. that's why i suggested your stihl dealer. they usually have several different sizes of tubing in stock. take you old one with you to compare for i.d. don't be afraid to as questions.

i would recommend a new carb if you can find one. but that saw is an antique and the walbro carbs aren't real easy to find. if you want to roll the dice and rebuild, there are instructive videos on youtube. google is your friend. the hardest part of a carb rebuild is removing and replacing the needle valve. it requires good hands and good eyes and the tiny spring for the needle valve tends to transdimensionalize if you're not really careful. sometimes a rebuild just doesn't "take," that's especially true if the guy before you was unskilled and damaged the carb or if there was fuel left in the saw for an extended period (like winter.) you can get a cheaper rebuild kit with just the diaphragms and gaskets (no needle valve.)
 
Does the Ace line handle ethanol?

Primer bulb!? I see no primer bulb nor did I see mention on the documentation. I thought you primed by pull starting with the choke on.

What's involved in the carb rebuild? The only carb rebuilds I've done are on my B&S lawnmower engine which basically involved me removing the screw that holds the bowl in and then removing and ultrasonically cleaning the 4 or 5 components.


by the way, the source for parts i sent you in an earlier post shows a poulan, not a sears saw. don't worry. they're the same except for paint.
 
Does the Ace line handle ethanol?

Primer bulb!? I see no primer bulb nor did I see mention on the documentation. I thought you primed by pull starting with the choke on.

What's involved in the carb rebuild? The only carb rebuilds I've done are on my B&S lawnmower engine which basically involved me removing the screw that holds the bowl in and then removing and ultrasonically cleaning the 4 or 5 components.

here's a youtube vid that i made for a customer to show him what was wrong with his saw and how it was repaired. in the first image you will see the lower fuel line which had broken where it was plugged into the little dual barb fitting. ethanol had made it brittle. in next image is the top fuel line and you can see how it runs thru the length of the handle to the carb. i considered replacing the fuel line with a single length of tubing and no double barb but decided to leave it stock. the line is "tygon" type modern tubing.

 
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