SawTroll
Information Collector
OK, something I didn't know about then - maybe spring assisted start? If that is what it is, avoid it when possible - unless the operator really needs it!
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OK, something I didn't know about then - maybe spring assisted start? If that is what it is, avoid it when possible - unless the operator really needs it!
apn73
ArboristSite Operative
Is spin start the Husqvarna/Jonsered equivalent of the easy2start system? I was just on their website and that is what it appears.
M
moody
Guest
The s is the easy adjust bar & chain
SawTroll
Information Collector
OK, still something that you want to avoid.
As should be obvious by now, I haven't updated myself on the features of the newer breed of the red plastic cased saws....
spike60
Addicted to ArboristSite
SawTroll
Information Collector
No, it is simply the decomp valve, and has nothing to do with that "S" (I just read up on it)....:msp_wink:
M
moody
Guest
If you dig a little the s is for easy adjust. The c is like you said a cat muffler.
SawTroll
Information Collector
locofrog
ArboristSite Operative
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/233265-3.htm
There's the link for my 2141 to 346 conversion. Startup video at the end.
Loco
There's the link for my 2141 to 346 conversion. Startup video at the end.
Loco
AuerX
constantly confused
M
moody
Guest
Dual port or open the existing outlet? I don't remember but it sounded pretty good.
bluesportster02
fire wood hack
thanks for the great thread
what would be good numbers to port the 45 mm cylinder too. i ported my 350 but didnt use degree wheel.i just took out the base gasket widen the ports and blended the bottom of transfers. i got a degree wheel now and might go back in and adjust the timing a little. thanks
what would be good numbers to port the 45 mm cylinder too. i ported my 350 but didnt use degree wheel.i just took out the base gasket widen the ports and blended the bottom of transfers. i got a degree wheel now and might go back in and adjust the timing a little. thanks
locofrog
ArboristSite Operative
Also search for project stumpbroke sleeper 345. I think that's right. Stumpy built one mean machine there. He helped me lots. Mastermind and nmurph as well. These guys know their ****. If you need advice o help just pm me. I'll do what I can.
Oh and moody that was a single port exhaust. Gigantor hole covered by a 288xp deflector. I liked it so much for muffler mods I got 4 extras for later. Post a pic in a minute.
Loco
Oh and moody that was a single port exhaust. Gigantor hole covered by a 288xp deflector. I liked it so much for muffler mods I got 4 extras for later. Post a pic in a minute.
Loco
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locofrog
ArboristSite Operative
Here it is. A pic of the aftermarket cylinder and mm. Also the new warning decal.
Loco
Loco
M
moody
Guest
thanks for the great thread
What kind of use does the saw see? If its a saw you play around with you could get crazy with it.
bluesportster02
fire wood hack
M
moody
Guest
If I had your stock numbers I'd be more help.
bluesportster02
fire wood hack
M
moody
Guest
You're missing your blow down and your transfers seem a little high. But that's no big deal if you cut your squish those will come down a degree or two. Leave the intake alone since you've already widened it, raise your exhaust to 104*. The trick with these is not how much you take out its where you take it from. Match the riser to the jug in the transfer area you need torward the intake some maybe 2mm. Be careful not to take too much or you'll loose charge velocity/ throttle response. Get a 346 boot remove the sleeve add a walbro 199 and poke a hole in the muffler and you'll have a nice running saw.
SawTroll
Information Collector
This thread is sort of connected to this topic.
