McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well gents - I looked through perhaps 50 IPL's tonight and found the following for the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws:

There were only two different bearings used for all of the 10 Series variants, three if you count the very, very early 1-10 (110348) - 63429 and 67905

There were three different seal part numbers - 61618/65746, and 67905

Seals 61618/65746 were used with bearing 63429 and 67906 was always used with 67905

I can only surmise from the saws I've taken apart that 61618 or 65746 are 1-3/8" O.D. and press into the extra wide outer race of the bearing 63429, and 67906 is 1-9/16" O.D. and matches the bearing O.D. so it presses directly into the crankcase bore along with the bearing 67905.

The crankshaft diameter under the seal on the flywheel side is 9/16" or 0.563"

The PTO side remains (as always) bearing and seal 7/8" or 0.875" diameter O.D. and 5/8 or 0.625" shaft diameter. The larger, higher performance saws have a "carrier" they call a bearing insert for the PTO side bearing and seal that is fixed in the crankcase with either a locating pin or retainer ring.
 

Attachments

  • Super Pro 70 Powerhead.pdf
    323.7 KB · Views: 26
...

the rings don't make a perfect seal in any case.

Mark

True, but when Brian got done working his magic on my PM 850 it would go pssst when you pushed in the DSP after shutting the saw off. Never timed how long it held compression. Should have, but it left for California today.

Ron
 
I had to change the belt drive on the impeller, too slow initially and the single groove drive was not going to cut it.

DSCN2940.JPG

I am ready when it snows again

IMG_5203.1.jpg

Tim - I am sure some saws left McCulloch with a different combination in them than the IPL's describe but the bearing and seal combinations are interchangeable across the line up.

Mark
 
Well gents - I looked through perhaps 50 IPL's tonight and found the following for the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws:......

Sorry if I opened that can o' worms. Sure do appreciate the effort and info. That pretty much nails it down, tho.

And whaddya know? Some of you may remember the muni auction I won a few years back that included 3 PM700's and a PM 10-10. Also included a few other saws, random bars/chains, and two boxes of parts -- one full of clutch drums and rims, and the other a variety of Mac odds n ends..., mostly useful stuff but I completely forgot about what was in there. Figured it'd be worth checking into since I vaguely remembered a coupla air filters, etc. Was basically looking for K10-HDC kits. But what do you see in the lower left of the pic? Yep! (No PM8200 piston, tho. No HDC kits either. Damn!)

0118172042b_resized.jpg
 
Gotta love the starter rope I re-discovered from my SP81. Totally forgot about this until I took it apart to paint the cover today. Got a little chuckle out of it. It's the way I got it.

0122171537_resized.jpg
Also decided to repaint everything once I got all the parts fairly cleaned up. Final bath in the USC with a Simple Green solution for anything that would fit and then Blue Dawn and a scrub brush and rinse for everything. No sand/bead blasting or anything fancy. Just gonna do another coat of rattle can and clear coat and be done with it. Was 65 degrees and sunny here today with a slight breeze. Great day to paint outside for mid January! Need to scrounge up a new SP81 sticker/decal somewhere along the line.

0122172043_resized.jpg

I did discover a hairline crack in the tank when I checked for leaks before painting it. Didn't even notice it as a crack. Just looked like a scratch like the one to the upper left. Barely weeps, but it weeps. Good opportunity to see if the green Loctite may come to the rescue in this situation along with a primer coat and a couple coats of paint and a clear coat. The crack is really exaggerated by the Loctite penetrating into it and making it obvious. Not as bad as it looks. Gotta wonder how it got there without any other signs of stress or major impact. If it still leaks after the painting I'll break down and buy a can of RedKote and deal with it from the inside like I probably should now. I'll let the Loctite set up real good before smoothing the surface and priming. Takes the runny green stuff a bit longer to cure than the red or blue, but it penetrates really well.​

0122171942_resized.jpg
 
Sorry if I opened that can o' worms. Sure do appreciate the effort and info. That pretty much nails it down, tho.

And whaddya know? Some of you may remember the muni auction I won a few years back that included 3 PM700's and a PM 10-10. Also included a few other saws, random bars/chains, and two boxes of parts -- one full of clutch drums and rims, and the other a variety of Mac odds n ends..., mostly useful stuff but I completely forgot about what was in there. Figured it'd be worth checking into since I vaguely remembered a coupla air filters, etc. Was basically looking for K10-HDC kits. But what do you see in the lower left of the pic? Yep! (No PM8200 piston, tho. No HDC kits either. Damn!)


Found your FW side seals?

I often wondered how much stress the tanks would take if someone cranked down on the mount screws. Weird with the AV though.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top