Playing with chain

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cuttinties

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It's been too soggy to do much more than piddle with chain so that's what I've been doing. I'm not too biased but I find myself goofy filing more often than not.
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But square filing is something I needed to practice up on. I prefer single bit files but I've been stuck with double bevels lately. I'm probably going to keep a couple around for finishing, but I've yet to find a double bevel course enough to my liking. The chain below isn't finished yet, I still need to grind the chrome off the top and sides. Not to mention my rakers need attention.
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Now I'm no chain guru just enjoy making saws faster. Raker height is very neglected by the average user. I didn't and still have issues finding the right height with square chain.

Too high rakers
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And too low

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What are some of you using for raker height on your chain?
 
That's a big question. A chain that would be hopelessly boggy in oak on a 562 might be amazing in yellow pine on a 394. I quit measuring. If it's not pulling the power head into the wood the way I like, I take them down a bit. The top angle also seems to change how much height it likes
 
That's a big question. A chain that would be hopelessly boggy in oak on a 562 might be amazing in yellow pine on a 394. I quit measuring. If it's not pulling the power head into the wood the way I like, I take them down a bit. The top angle also seems to change how much height it likes
.017-.025 is working pretty well. I'm talking more about in cants not so much work chains. Right now I've got a saw I'm having issues making a chain for. The saw in the video above likes an aggressive chain. Top plate angle gets to steep without the chrome and the chain doesn't last too long. But I don't want to rip the wood with low rakers either. So I'm trying split the difference. I may just have to order a 9 pin and go from there.
 
That's a big question. A chain that would be hopelessly boggy in oak on a 562 might be amazing in yellow pine on a 394. I quit measuring. If it's not pulling the power head into the wood the way I like, I take them down a bit. The top angle also seems to change how much height it likes
Making a square work chain isn't so bad. But race chain is a little different. This chain isn't my fastest but it works well for this saw.
 
I know it does. I'm thinking with more chain speed it'll help make better use of the steeper top plate angle
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Forward lean is something that I'm trying to get away from
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Screamers like to scream, chuggers like to chug. I agree, that top plate angle will be fast in a cant with high-ish rakers and a fast saw. But only for a cut or two
 
Screamers like to scream, chuggers like to chug. I agree, that top plate angle will be fast in a cant with high-ish rakers and a fast saw. But only for a cut or two
I guess you could say that I'm trying to find a good area of trade off. Fast doesn't alway last too long but in soft clean wood it's not as big a deal. But as much as I enjoy chain I don't care to touch one up every time I make 3 cuts.
 
That top plate angle is about what I use for work chain. Forward lean helps it self feed better. Around .022" seems to work pretty good for a lot of my chains for cants.
My problem with forward lean is I tend to get too much. And too much forward lean can kill a saw. [emoji13]
 
It is hard to stay at 2-3° for the most part. It usually ends up 0 or 5
 
I took my first sq filed chain to the races at Matt's last Fall and failed miserably. Haven't messed with it much since. Wasn't fair to the ported 346 either...
Try a goofy file they're not too bad. It's a little more forgiving than square filing in my limited experience. Also makes converting round to square a little bit easier for me.
 
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