Poulan Pro 260 Muffler Mod

[SpartyOn]

I've got a Poulan Pro 260 and would like to do a muffler mod to it but don't really know where to start. Looking for some advice from others out there on what to do to make this saw a little bit more lively. The holes in the baffle are just smaller than 3/16". Thanks in advance!

 

[old guy]

I just drilled some of those holes bigger and left the screen out and then made the outlet opening bigger.
On my old 41 husky I drilled two 3/8 holes in the front but I don't think that did much for it.

John

 

[redfin]

You probably have plenty of area in that baffle. I don't like those rear outlets. It doesn't help the cylinder to cool. I would punch them shut in put a side outlet on that thing.

 

[bigmoose]

Dril a 1/2 inch hole right in the center. Then take the screen and cut it to fit and make two holes for the bolts. Then just out the screen on the outside. Makes a quick nice mod. I have drilled them 9/16.

 

[SpartyOn]

Thank you all for your input and ideas.

After reading through some other posts as well I decided I wanted to keep the spark arrester screen in since I don't cut that much and I doubt its restricting the airflow (unless it were to get clogged) and it should keep any bugs or other debris away from the cylinder that could work the way into the muffler from the new front hole. I also decided to keep the baffles in to still muffle the noise some but I opened up the 12 original holes to 7/32" and added 4 - 3/8" holes on the bottom to allow for easier air movement to the original exhaust outlets and to the new 1/2" exhaust outlet I put in the front.

I thought about the side exhaust so that when I am cutting there would be no blockage from the wood etc, but there is plastic there and I had read some other posts where the side exhaust led to melted plastic. If I had access to a welder and some pipe I could direct them forward with a small welded tube but I didn't have that option.

Now after I get a new primer bulb I can fire it up and see what the results are. Thanks again!

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

To late but that is a easy one. Take flat blade screwdriver and open them rear exits. Open baffle the way you already did. I used to just put holes in front but went to side slit cut in and pry open to use as its own deflector years ago. Dont forget to retune carb and remove those limiters if still on it, red blue.

 

[bikemike]

Do not use the baffle leave it out. And if you can find a crome lug nut to fit the bar stud it will make it faster

 

[bikemike]

Thank you all for your input and ideas.

After reading through some other posts as well I decided I wanted to keep the spark arrester screen in since I don't cut that much and I doubt its restricting the airflow (unless it were to get clogged) and it should keep any bugs or other debris away from the cylinder that could work the way into the muffler from the new front hole. I also decided to keep the baffles in to still muffle the noise some but I opened up the 12 original holes to 7/32" and added 4 - 3/8" holes on the bottom to allow for easier air movement to the original exhaust outlets and to the new 1/2" exhaust outlet I put in the front.

I thought about the side exhaust so that when I am cutting there would be no blockage from the wood etc, but there is plastic there and I had read some other posts where the side exhaust led to melted plastic. If I had access to a welder and some pipe I could direct them forward with a small welded tube but I didn't have that option.

Now after I get a new primer bulb I can fire it up and see what the results are. Thanks again!

Bypass the primer bulb run the fuel return straight to the tank if your tuned right it will fire easy