Stihl 064 with 066BB, along with a complete rebuild of the bottom end
- Thread starter epicklein22
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Interesting. It is set below the casting currently. I will take the flywheel back off and give it a look. How deep would you suggest it to be set?
Cylinder is on and everything clears. I smoothed out the exhaust port and now just need to check squish.
Here are the pictures:
Not the ideal port shape, but it will work. The bevels were good besides the bottom of the exhaust. It was pretty sharp from the factory, so I smoothed that out some. Make sure you check you kit before installing.
Port pictures. I used a chainsaw file, emery cloth and then some 600 grit sand paper. Not perfectly smooth or shiny (It took quite a while to achieve what I did. Now I know why you guys use dermels), but way better than stock.
Here are the holes slotted out. As Brad mentioned in his thread; from left to right, the measurements are the same on the 064 and 066. Front and back they are different. So slot the holes towards each other till it fits comfortably. Make sure there is no major restriction when tightening the bolts, you want a little amount of play. Try to keep the slots even, but it isn't too crucial. The piston will center the cylinder for you. I used an old 404 chainsaw file to slot the holes. Slow work, but hey; I got more time than money. If you look at the bottom of the picture, you can see some of the exhaust port work I did.
Piston fits good. No drag from the gasket either. To slot the cylinder gasket, I used a hole punch and placed it on the flat spot on my vise. If the surface isn't rigid, you will bend the gasket up when slotting it.
Alright guys, tell me if this seal is in too far......it is around 1-2mm deep. Seems alright, but I still think this bottom end might be a little firm when turning over. It might be seal drag though. I have never put in new seals before, so I don't know what they feel like.
Little promo for Wiha tools here. This t27 wrench I picked up from Baileys last year is just a great tool. German quality and 9 bucks. It makes tightening all bolts easier and is especially good for cylinder bolts. I just got the 4mm and it was like 4 or 5 dollars. Very nice for the older stihl saws and huskys. My dad is a pressman for a printing company and the repairman swears by Wiha tools. "I work on Japanese machines all day with german tools"
Here are the pictures:
Not the ideal port shape, but it will work. The bevels were good besides the bottom of the exhaust. It was pretty sharp from the factory, so I smoothed that out some. Make sure you check you kit before installing.
Port pictures. I used a chainsaw file, emery cloth and then some 600 grit sand paper. Not perfectly smooth or shiny (It took quite a while to achieve what I did. Now I know why you guys use dermels), but way better than stock.
Here are the holes slotted out. As Brad mentioned in his thread; from left to right, the measurements are the same on the 064 and 066. Front and back they are different. So slot the holes towards each other till it fits comfortably. Make sure there is no major restriction when tightening the bolts, you want a little amount of play. Try to keep the slots even, but it isn't too crucial. The piston will center the cylinder for you. I used an old 404 chainsaw file to slot the holes. Slow work, but hey; I got more time than money. If you look at the bottom of the picture, you can see some of the exhaust port work I did.
Piston fits good. No drag from the gasket either. To slot the cylinder gasket, I used a hole punch and placed it on the flat spot on my vise. If the surface isn't rigid, you will bend the gasket up when slotting it.
Alright guys, tell me if this seal is in too far......it is around 1-2mm deep. Seems alright, but I still think this bottom end might be a little firm when turning over. It might be seal drag though. I have never put in new seals before, so I don't know what they feel like.
Little promo for Wiha tools here. This t27 wrench I picked up from Baileys last year is just a great tool. German quality and 9 bucks. It makes tightening all bolts easier and is especially good for cylinder bolts. I just got the 4mm and it was like 4 or 5 dollars. Very nice for the older stihl saws and huskys. My dad is a pressman for a printing company and the repairman swears by Wiha tools. "I work on Japanese machines all day with german tools"
Your flywheel side seal looks good. I set mine on 064s about 2mm below the surface. So which oil pump was it you're needing? 064 or 066?
Rookie1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Very nice pics Epic.Nice informative thread too.:greenchainsaw:
064. Are they different that than 066 oilers? I never had the oiler from the 064 and was gonna use the 066 one I have and then found it was junk after taking it apart. I was gonna go lurking around the shop of the tree company I work for....and then hit up a saw shop that has some parts saws.....but anyone has one on here....I am interested.
Yeah the 064 and 066 oilers are completely different and not interchangeable. That's why you confused me because you mentioned 066 oiler but I thought you were building up an 064 case. So you'll need to get an 064 oiler and the the hose kit.
Martinm210
ArboristSite Operative
Awesome thread. I like the use of the vise, that's a very clever way of pressing all those bearing and such out.
Just did some slotting on my jug tonight, and getting reading to shave the case.
Great pics, very helpful
Just did some slotting on my jug tonight, and getting reading to shave the case.
Great pics, very helpful
RiverRat2
Serio Tree Freak
Good thread!!!!
Very nice work!!!!!
Very nice work!!!!!
Thanks for the information.
I will start my search then for an 064 oiler.So if I snag this and this, will I be good to go? The oiler mentioned 064 and 066.....
http://tinyurl.com/bqgbxk
http://tinyurl.com/cok8so
Last edited:
excess650
Addicted to ArboristSite
any progress on the 064/066BB?
opcorn:
opcorn:
Got an oiler coming my way and some 395 rings on order. I was gonna put the saw together without an oiler and just test run it, but broke a ring when installing the cylinder. Lucky 395 rings are the same, so I went with those over another pair of BB rings from Baileys. So hopefully on Friday night, this puppy will on my garage floor idling away and saturday I can do some work with it.
.
Any updates?
Got the oiler, still waiting on the rings. I can't make it to the dealer to pickup the 395 rings till friday.:censored: I wanted to have this thing done last week, but the order was slowwwww.:censored:
I hate waiting on parts too, lol.
Uhhh, still not there! This is starting to get ridiculous. Over 2 weeks now. I guess the orders got screwed up....
Still a good dealer though. He has good prices and caters to a lot of professionals. So good products are in stock. He gave me a sweet Oregon book with all the products. Looks like I might get all the scored jugs with aluminum transfer too, instead of him throwing them out. That would be a nice hookup....
Wet1
Addicted to ArboristSite
Any word when your parts will be in? I'm looking foward to seeing how this will come out...
I hear ya. I wanted this thing to be done long ago. If you want to do this project; I would dump at least the rings. Most get rid of the circlips and wrist pin too. I will eventually replace those also, but just want to get it running first.
The dealer is gonna email me when they come in. I guess he ordered a 395 p&c with the order and that has caused a back up. I am also waiting on a clutch drum assembly for my partner p500.
I got a tree buddy that just blew up his 066 (bearing let go) and I want to let him borrow it and get some real time behind it. If he likes it, then I will be very happy.
I am curious about the protruding extra threads on the spark plug.
I'm not very knowledgeable on saw engines, but in two cycle motorcycle engines, the threads might build up with carbon and take out the head threads when the plug is removed. More often, they heat up and the fine sharp edge can cause preignition then detonation.
How much of an issue is this? apparently not so much concerns on saws? Constant rpm is totally different application I assume....
kcj
I'm not very knowledgeable on saw engines, but in two cycle motorcycle engines, the threads might build up with carbon and take out the head threads when the plug is removed. More often, they heat up and the fine sharp edge can cause preignition then detonation.
How much of an issue is this? apparently not so much concerns on saws? Constant rpm is totally different application I assume....
kcj
