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husky455rancher

husky455rancher

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the wedge on my splitter is very narrow like that also. its a ebay splitter but it has split damn near everything ive thrown at it. i agree a wider wedge would need more power to drive through the logs. mines got a honda 5hp on it. great little motor runs forever on a tank of gas and its really quiet. i really have to take pics of my stuff sometime.
 
Evanrude

Evanrude

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cabinman

cabinman

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Hey trip

I beleive the step in the wedge is a stop for a 4-way adaptor.

The step is there to acumulate the majority of the spliting force, Right next to the beam, so the log gets its splitting start next to the beam and not up high near, or next, to the top, It greatly reduces the stress on the wedge and the beam, OK, Iam guessing, But thats how I see It, cabinman
 
wdanforth

wdanforth

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My table plans

Awesome. I wish I had something to catch my wood on mine.

Danny
attachment.php

View attachment 74473

My table I will weld up Tuesday Night. Slides under the top of the I-Beam and rests on the tongue support. I drew the plans after seeing the original pictures of nikocker's splitter. My friend who manages a steel warehouse provided the steel. I showed him a picture of nikocker table. He kind of went crazy bringing me 1.5" thick wall tubing. Said he wanted it to last. I will post pictures when finished.
 
Sawmill

Sawmill

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I like your drawing but I have a suggestion. If you have to remove the table to haul your spliter I would spread the 2 tubes behind the wedge so they are slightly wider than your wedge. Then on your beam bolt 2 flat pieces of metal with a stop welded on the back end. Then when you have to remove the table you just pull it back and fold it up over your wedge and lay it on the beam for transport. If you are using heavy wall tube for your table it is going to be real heavy.
 
nikocker

nikocker

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Eat your Wheaties!

That table you propose WILL be heavy!
The one that I bought for my splitter is all I care to lift, and the tubes on it are a lot smaller than 1.5" heavy wall. You might want to rethink the tube daimeter???
You also might want to consider adding wings to hold the split pieces on so the don't roll off when they fall apart. See the photo in post#3

Al :cheers:
 
Last edited:
sloth9669

sloth9669

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tw1

i had that one till i needed to upgrade to the tw5. but the one thing i can tell you is but that 4 way. Had it on mine and it will cut your splitting time in half. Well worth its money....enjoy tho thats a great splitter
 
MATTYB11

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i had that one till i needed to upgrade to the tw5. but the one thing i can tell you is but that 4 way. Had it on mine and it will cut your splitting time in half. Well worth its money....enjoy tho thats a great splitter

I second that. I have the same splitter (tw-p1) and for the size of wood your splitting the 4-way will be worth the money. I use it on rounds up to about 18" inches. For logs any bigger than that, or the uglies I just slide it off and use the single blade.
 
gink595

gink595

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I second that. I have the same splitter (tw-p1) and for the size of wood your splitting the 4-way will be worth the money. I use it on rounds up to about 18" inches. For logs any bigger than that, or the uglies I just slide it off and use the single blade.

You wouldn't have any pics of that 4-way would you? I'm making a splitter right now and I am now wanting to make the 4-way, since seeing this very simplictic and effective wedge system I'm wanting to go this way, how does the 4-way adapter attach and look like?
 
drmiller100

drmiller100

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if you put a big round on the ground, grab a wedge, and start pounding it in, where do you start the wedge???

near the edge. It is easier to split the wood.

also, there is a LOT less leverage on the splitter nearer the main beam, so it is easier on it.

all around a smart idea.
 
cabinman

cabinman

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Grate, mount

attachment.php

View attachment 74473

My table I will weld up Tuesday Night. Slides under the top of the I-Beam and rests on the tongue support. I drew the plans after seeing the original pictures of nikocker's splitter. My friend who manages a steel warehouse provided the steel. I showed him a picture of nikocker table. He kind of went crazy bringing me 1.5" thick wall tubing. Said he wanted it to last. I will post pictures when finished.

If you make a female reese type hitch in the front of your splitter it doubles as a grate mount ,,and a hitch mount, you can un plug your hitch and plug in your grate,....also keeps people from steeling your splitter, cuz it aint gota hitch on it,....cabinman
 
wdanforth

wdanforth

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In the drawing the hitch is removed. To use the table I pull two pins from the 1/2" diameter post (represented in the drawing by the 2 black solid circles) and remove the tongue part for the hitch. For theft prevention the only time the hitch part is on is when connected to MY truck. I've had 3 ATVs stolen in 6 years learned my lesson.

The table does weigh quite a lot. Who cares I am not planning to carry it around and the steel was FREE. It doesn't bolt to the splitter at all. Just rest on the top of hitch round bar (grey with 2 circles) and slides under top part of beam (dashed red lines). Table can rotated 180 degree if I want. Will attach the same way.

Welded everything in the drawing together tonight. Small MIG welder got a workout. Stick welder would have been much faster. But you use what you have. Just have to weld the sides on the table like the Timberwolf, then prime and paint after a quick 1/2 cord test drive.
 
dolmen

dolmen

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Welded everything in the drawing together tonight. Small MIG welder got a workout. Stick welder would have been much faster. But you use what you have. Just have to weld the sides on the table like the Timberwolf, then prime and paint after a quick 1/2 cord test drive.

Got any pics of this up and running yet? Thanks

Cheers

:)
 

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