BlackCatBone
ArboristSite Guru
I wouldn't doubt it. Does your dealer stock it? I have to order .058" (or .050"), and the deal is much less sweet. Do any Stihl saws use .325, .050? Most I've seen are .063 for some reason.
Chain: Loops or reel?
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I wouldn't doubt it. Does your dealer stock it? I have to order .058" (or .050"), and the deal is much less sweet. Do any Stihl saws use .325, .050? Most I've seen are .063 for some reason.
I keep 100's in
72 LGX
A1LM & A3
A1EP
72 CL
I buy loops in the common sizes and use the rolls for odd DL counts ......
72 LGX
A1LM & A3
A1EP
72 CL
I buy loops in the common sizes and use the rolls for odd DL counts ......
J.Walker
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I always thought Stihls used 50ga. When I asked for it in 58ga. they knew I was a Husky guy.
do it... you will not regret it.
main point is to standardize on one chain size. usually 3/8 .050 or 3/8 .063.
stay away from .058... it's easy to close your bar down to .050 with a Silvey bar close tool.
3/8 .063 has the advantage of supporting bars longer than 32 in. which is the max bar that comes in 3/8 .050. any longer you want to go skip anyways.
the bars that you already have usually decides which chain to go with.
gives real incentive to get rid of MS 260's .325 in favor of 3/8
so one can use the same chain on all your saws except ... little pico chain for 200T and pole saw. buy loops for those saws, which usually don't go through many chains anyways.
other size needed would be .404 for large mount Stihl ... if you're toting an 084 size saw. which again is not needed very often.
so if done right .. one can easily support most of your saws with one 100ft roll of chain.
then loops for low use pico chains.
main point is to standardize on one chain size. usually 3/8 .050 or 3/8 .063.
stay away from .058... it's easy to close your bar down to .050 with a Silvey bar close tool.
3/8 .063 has the advantage of supporting bars longer than 32 in. which is the max bar that comes in 3/8 .050. any longer you want to go skip anyways.
the bars that you already have usually decides which chain to go with.
gives real incentive to get rid of MS 260's .325 in favor of 3/8
so one can use the same chain on all your saws except ... little pico chain for 200T and pole saw. buy loops for those saws, which usually don't go through many chains anyways.
other size needed would be .404 for large mount Stihl ... if you're toting an 084 size saw. which again is not needed very often.
so if done right .. one can easily support most of your saws with one 100ft roll of chain.
then loops for low use pico chains.
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In my area .058 is only at the Husky dealers trying to keep you as there customer.......
They really push the .058 ...
BlackCatBone
ArboristSite Guru
OK, a spinner/breaker it is! I should have known this would happen
Thanks fellas!
Thanks fellas!
J.Walker
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I have been using Stihl RSLK chain in 3/8 size and I like it!
Better put me down for a spinner/breaker too!
Better put me down for a spinner/breaker too!
BlackCatBone
ArboristSite Guru
Is that the square ground? Sharp stuff!!
J.Walker
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You should try my 346 with that stuff on it. Yes thats square ground.
just scored an old Herr spinner and breaker combo too. have not tried it yet, they look really well made.
Last spring I bought two 25' rolls of Carlton chain (.404/.058 and .404/.63) from a local shop and had them make up the loops I needed. Figured it up after we finished and decided it would have been cheaper to buy the tools & chain and do it myself.
I bought the Baileys breaker and spinner and have been having some fun making up a few chains. I have a number of saws and all seem to have different guage and pitch so I've been watching Baileys and buying close out loops that would work for my stuff. 25' rolls are O.K. for saws with shorter bars. I am keeping my eyes open for 100' rolls of stuff I use more often. I learned fairly early on that the key/keyway on the breaker did not line up with the punch; buy several spare punches as you will certainly need them.
I even managed to pick up a bunch of 1/2" pitch chain and presets/tie straps so I have been able to make a few loops for some of my oddball gear drive saws as well. I even have a handful of 9/16" presets and tie straps for when the occasion rises.
Mark
I bought the Baileys breaker and spinner and have been having some fun making up a few chains. I have a number of saws and all seem to have different guage and pitch so I've been watching Baileys and buying close out loops that would work for my stuff. 25' rolls are O.K. for saws with shorter bars. I am keeping my eyes open for 100' rolls of stuff I use more often. I learned fairly early on that the key/keyway on the breaker did not line up with the punch; buy several spare punches as you will certainly need them.
I even managed to pick up a bunch of 1/2" pitch chain and presets/tie straps so I have been able to make a few loops for some of my oddball gear drive saws as well. I even have a handful of 9/16" presets and tie straps for when the occasion rises.
Mark
Tie straps are on Ebray about a dollar each, group of 6. All sizes are available. Have fun, go for it.......
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
If you need tie straps you can just pop the rivets out of the used presets. If you need presets though just get them through Baileys or somewhere like that - may be different in the US but dealers here (Particularly STIHL!) have quoted me one tiestrap at USD$3.50 each.
I import mine from the US now, way cheaper than even buying them in Australia with a trade account and I can land Carlton ones here in all sizes, inc. freight, for about USD$0.65c
Normally there are ample tiestraps/presets included with any bulk rolls of chain but 3/8"LP always seem to run out due to smaller loops being made.
PWB
ArboristSite Guru
Hate to argue, but we run a factory Stihl bar at work that's 36", 3/8 .050 on the 066, full house square chisel.............................. 8 saws at work from 026 to 066 all running 3/8 .050. same deal at home, 3 saws from 034super to 084 all running .050. I do have .404 for the big saw, but only on the 4 foot bar, not the short (30") one.
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oldsaw
"Been There, Milled That"
You can save on your punches by just shaving the rivets off with a 4" angle head driver, then punching them out, even by hand, then just use the spinner. I've got to blow on a spinner one day, my current one looks just like a small ball pein hammer.
You can save on your punches by just shaving the rivets off with a 4" angle head driver, then punching them out, even by hand, then just use the spinner. I've got to blow on a spinner one day, my current one looks just like a small ball pein hammer.
Hmmmmmmmm................I know a guy that might have an extra one.
sbhooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do these tools come with good instructions for a guy like me that has never done it? How much would be a roundhouse guess as to what a 20" loop of 3/8 .50 or 63 cost making it yourself? I would really like to start making my own, but I have to justify it.
? I would really like to start making my own, but I have to justify it.
MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Do these tools come with good instructions for a guy like me that has never done it? How much would be a roundhouse guess as to what a 20" loop of 3/8 .50 or 63 cost making it yourself
The tools do generally come with instructions but in reality practice makes perfect. Breaking chains with a breaker is easy. Spinning can take a bit of practice to get right - just remember to go slow when spinning your first few chains until you get used to how tight you should wind the handle in. Nothing worse than overtightening the rivets (preset) and then sometimes having to break the chain again to redo it.
I'm in Australia but to be honest chain prices are very similar to the US in adjusted dollars on all but Stihl chain.
If you were to make a 20" 72 drive link, 3/8" chain at prices around USD$250 for a 100' roll (1632 or 1640 drive links - can't remember exactly
) then each chain will cost about USD$11.36 and you'll get 22 (and a bit!) chains from a roll. If you buy 25' rolls then you'll pay a bit more. Factor in the price of a breaker and spinner though and it may not be as cost effective as you think unless you use a fair bit of chain. I've seen some excellent loop prices in the US from places like Baileys. We don't see loop prices anywhere close to that in Australia. If I didn't have a chainsaw business and lived in the US I'd consider just buying loops instead and spending any spare money on a decent grinder.
SilverBox
ArboristSite Guru
Loops at baileys are very affordable and they will make them any number of drive links long you want. I thought about buying 100's and the breaker/spinner, but after I figured out how many types of chain I need (5 or 6) and how fast I go thru them, it would take something like 10+ years to pay for the breaker spinner vs just buying the loops I need from baileys when I order other supplies to spread the shipping out. I also hand file all my chains so they last me a very long time, unless I hit a rock.
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