goatchin
ArboristSite Operative
036:
I rebuilt the top end on the 036, replaced impulse and fuel lines, rebuilt carb, opened muffler up to a 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, and clipped tabs on limiter caps. I'm not confident/dont really know how to tune saws so i had a small engine "mechanic" (explain scenario at end of post) tune the saw to ear, but i would rather it was done with a tach. I running a 20" bar on the saw. When I cut for maybe 3 minutes at the most and let the saw idle back down to normal speed it will stall out but starts back up after 2-3 pulls. also has sluggish acceleration. (.021" squish and 155lb comp)
Is this from a carb problem?-I know for sure that when i rebuilt it, it was put back together properly. Possible air leak?, idles kinda choppy-Should i get someone else to tune it? (have Stihl shop nearby)
046:
I bought the saw knowing that it was in good condition-checked cylinder and piston b4 purchase. I put new mix in and started it (no bar on it at the time as i didnt have a stihl mount bar), it ran at a fast idle and when turned over it will stall out (assuming it was running to rich). I found that the intake boot was dry cracked so i replace that, but didnt replace the impulse as it looked to be in good shape. I opend the muffler up to the 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, clipped tabs on limiter caps, removed base gasket to get better comp. (150lb), put high temp gas resistant gasket maker between base and crank case. Had the same "mechanic" try to tune the saw. He said that some saws just wont idle-i dont believe him, i think if a saw wont idle then there is something wrong, i.e air leak etc.Now the saw wont idle. have not cut with it as fear of screwing up the saw.
Would this be a result of me removing base gasket (.032" squish now). I noticed on crank case surface there is a hole going down into the case-this is where the gasket would be going over. when i put the gasket maker on i did not cover this spot, but did around it. Could this also be an air leak?
About the mechanic...years ago we would take the lawn mowers to him to service fix them and also sharpen saw chains before i learned how to file. now that i've been around here and learned/read alot i find some of his philosophies to be out there. he still believes in breakin in a saw at 32:1 and then running them at 40:1-claims new oil is crap...o yea and he's a SOLO dealer:monkey: says new saws wont last like the old ones did/do. he claimed to have logged when younger and tells "stories" of cuttin trees without notches and the whole 9 yards:monkey:. needless to say we are done with him and are going to take our business to the stihl shop and trying our luck there.
sorry for the long post
I rebuilt the top end on the 036, replaced impulse and fuel lines, rebuilt carb, opened muffler up to a 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, and clipped tabs on limiter caps. I'm not confident/dont really know how to tune saws so i had a small engine "mechanic" (explain scenario at end of post) tune the saw to ear, but i would rather it was done with a tach. I running a 20" bar on the saw. When I cut for maybe 3 minutes at the most and let the saw idle back down to normal speed it will stall out but starts back up after 2-3 pulls. also has sluggish acceleration. (.021" squish and 155lb comp)
Is this from a carb problem?-I know for sure that when i rebuilt it, it was put back together properly. Possible air leak?, idles kinda choppy-Should i get someone else to tune it? (have Stihl shop nearby)
046:
I bought the saw knowing that it was in good condition-checked cylinder and piston b4 purchase. I put new mix in and started it (no bar on it at the time as i didnt have a stihl mount bar), it ran at a fast idle and when turned over it will stall out (assuming it was running to rich). I found that the intake boot was dry cracked so i replace that, but didnt replace the impulse as it looked to be in good shape. I opend the muffler up to the 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, clipped tabs on limiter caps, removed base gasket to get better comp. (150lb), put high temp gas resistant gasket maker between base and crank case. Had the same "mechanic" try to tune the saw. He said that some saws just wont idle-i dont believe him, i think if a saw wont idle then there is something wrong, i.e air leak etc.Now the saw wont idle. have not cut with it as fear of screwing up the saw.
Would this be a result of me removing base gasket (.032" squish now). I noticed on crank case surface there is a hole going down into the case-this is where the gasket would be going over. when i put the gasket maker on i did not cover this spot, but did around it. Could this also be an air leak?
About the mechanic...years ago we would take the lawn mowers to him to service fix them and also sharpen saw chains before i learned how to file. now that i've been around here and learned/read alot i find some of his philosophies to be out there. he still believes in breakin in a saw at 32:1 and then running them at 40:1-claims new oil is crap...o yea and he's a SOLO dealer:monkey: says new saws wont last like the old ones did/do. he claimed to have logged when younger and tells "stories" of cuttin trees without notches and the whole 9 yards:monkey:. needless to say we are done with him and are going to take our business to the stihl shop and trying our luck there.
sorry for the long post