a couple 036 and 046 questions

[goatchin]

036:

I rebuilt the top end on the 036, replaced impulse and fuel lines, rebuilt carb, opened muffler up to a 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, and clipped tabs on limiter caps. I'm not confident/dont really know how to tune saws so i had a small engine "mechanic" (explain scenario at end of post) tune the saw to ear, but i would rather it was done with a tach. I running a 20" bar on the saw. When I cut for maybe 3 minutes at the most and let the saw idle back down to normal speed it will stall out but starts back up after 2-3 pulls. also has sluggish acceleration. (.021" squish and 155lb comp)

Is this from a carb problem?-I know for sure that when i rebuilt it, it was put back together properly. Possible air leak?, idles kinda choppy-Should i get someone else to tune it? (have Stihl shop nearby)

046:

I bought the saw knowing that it was in good condition-checked cylinder and piston b4 purchase. I put new mix in and started it (no bar on it at the time as i didnt have a stihl mount bar), it ran at a fast idle and when turned over it will stall out (assuming it was running to rich). I found that the intake boot was dry cracked so i replace that, but didnt replace the impulse as it looked to be in good shape. I opend the muffler up to the 1/2"x3/4" hole in stock location, clipped tabs on limiter caps, removed base gasket to get better comp. (150lb), put high temp gas resistant gasket maker between base and crank case. Had the same "mechanic" try to tune the saw. He said that some saws just wont idle-i dont believe him, i think if a saw wont idle then there is something wrong, i.e air leak etc.Now the saw wont idle. have not cut with it as fear of screwing up the saw.

Would this be a result of me removing base gasket (.032" squish now). I noticed on crank case surface there is a hole going down into the case-this is where the gasket would be going over. when i put the gasket maker on i did not cover this spot, but did around it. Could this also be an air leak?

About the mechanic...years ago we would take the lawn mowers to him to service fix them and also sharpen saw chains before i learned how to file. now that i've been around here and learned/read alot i find some of his philosophies to be out there. he still believes in breakin in a saw at 32:1 and then running them at 40:1-claims new oil is crap...o yea and he's a SOLO dealer:monkey: says new saws wont last like the old ones did/do. he claimed to have logged when younger and tells "stories" of cuttin trees without notches and the whole 9 yards:monkey:. needless to say we are done with him and are going to take our business to the stihl shop and trying our luck there.

sorry for the long post

 

[kevlar]

I would say the carbs need to be properly tuned.low speed may be out on the 036 possible the inlet lever needs to be set,same thing on the 046. A saw can be properly tuned by ear but I don't think your guy can do it.

 

[goatchin]

sorry should have stated it a little better-I'd rather have a saw tuned and then verified with tach on idle and high speed.

I think i know how he's stayed in business-chainsaw job security via "tuning" and chargeing $10 a chain off the saw to sharpen ahah

 

[blsnelling]

Both saws sound like they need someone that has an ear for tuning a two stroke to properly tune them. Being a small engine mechanic doesn't automatically qualify him. Yes, your saws should idle fine.

 

[goatchin]

thanks, guess i'll be stopping by the Stihl shop tomarow after i get done with class.


A little bit off topic but for two-stroke small engine work, is $60/hr usual rate or high....that is the low side of what we have to pay the diesel mechanics when we have our tractors in the shop, usually more$$

 

[blsnelling]

See if you can find an experienced AS member not too far away. You're much better off if you can learn to do it on your own.

 

[goatchin]

That is something that i would like to be able to do. I havent seen any active posters that are nearby, unless i want to drive 2.5 hours or so north to GKS. Might try one of the loggers thats a couple roads up from us, i believe he works on his own saws. I'll have to ask if the guy at the stihl shop would be able to do so after hours or set up a apt. when i can come in during work hours and have him give me a hand.

 

[Mad Professor]

thanks, guess i'll be stopping by the Stihl shop tomarow after i get done with class.


A little bit off topic but for two-stroke small engine work, is $60/hr usual rate or high....that is the low side of what we have to pay the diesel mechanics when we have our tractors in the shop, usually more$$

My local dealer (the GOOD one) only charges $45/hour, the other one can't figure out how to pressure test a saw........but he'll sell you a new piston/cyl assy right quickly.

 

[goatchin]

yea sounds like my area. only a small handful of good techs that know whats going on and the rest are there to make a buck and run. Have make a day trip to find a shop or somebody thats good at what they do for small engine/2-stroke

 

[Mad Professor]

yea sounds like my area. only a small handful of good techs that know whats going on and the rest are there to make a buck and run. Have make a day trip to find a shop or somebody thats good at what they do for small engine/2-stroke

I brought him in a nice clean stripped 036 last week and he put seals in for $15, can't beat that. Real good on OEM part prices and lets some old "carcasses" go for free too.

Besides that a nice man you shoot the BS with.