Kneejerk Bombas
ArboristSite King
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2001
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The shop near me charges $3 to grind a bar on the bar rail grinder. That bar has plenty of life in it.
I think Baileys sells a pretty simple tool made by pferd to file the bar back square. I have one in the shop along with a rail grinder. The pferd tool works surprisingly well as an inexpensive option.
Careful with the bench grinder. Not all are or can be set up with the tool rest perfectly radial. Frankly, if I didn't have a disc or belt sander set up with a perfect 90 degree table I'd stick with a file. It will take far less time to file from the start, keeping the angle true and the sweep smooth, than it will to fix after the grinder has buggered it.
Jack
I think Baileys sells a pretty simple tool made by pferd to file the bar back square. I have one in the shop along with a rail grinder. The pferd tool works surprisingly well as an inexpensive option.
Exactly. Item 13025, 15 bucks. I've got the same tool, left over from my skiing days, for sharpening ski edges. Works well, only removes what needs to be removed. You could also take a block of wood and use a table saw to rip a groove just wide enough to accept a file. Make sure blade is measured right at 90 degrees, of course.
Jack
your rails are blue oil problem or you do not used bar oil we have a bar rail grinder its excellent but we have 35 sthil saws for you by a new bar tom trees
your rails are blue oil problem or you do not used bar oil we have a bar rail grinder its excellent but we have 35 sthil saws for you by a new bar tom trees
I've got my Bailey's catalog open to where that tool is right now. I try to order a few items together to get the most of the shipping cost, and I don't have to much that I 'need' from Bailey's at the moment. I'll try with the files first and see how it goes.
Kevin
I think Baileys sells a pretty simple tool made by pferd to file the bar back square. I have one in the shop along with a rail grinder. The pferd tool works surprisingly well as an inexpensive option.
Grind the rails following the curve of the bar. Try to preserve the original shape of the bar. Check depth after grinding for drive link clearance.
Square the edges after the grind to remove any grind bur.
If the chain is loose or tilts past the cutters corner hammer the rails in a touch. If it take a lot of closing it may be necessary to very lightly grind the rails again.
That bar has plenty of life left as long as the sprocket and tail are in good shape. If the tail needs work remember to file in a V to assist the chain in lining up. Check drive link clearance on the tail as well.
The whole bar truing process on a 16" bar is quick and easy once you have done a few. I enjoy the process as well as bar straighting. I consider it direct recycling, no need to waste a good bar.
Tell the owner to sharpen the chains more often.
would it leave enough rail so that the DL's don't touch the bottom of the groove? you also need to consider the width of the groove. is it wallowed out to the point that the chain flops to the side?
...
I was working a few bars over this past weekend and decided to take a couple of photo's of the set up.
I mount a 10" sanding disc in the table saw and square the disc to the table, really easy to keep the rails square this way.
Do make sure to vacuum all the saw dust out of the saw before you begin, and don't run the dust collector unless you are overinsured.
The disc is fitted with an aluminum oxide sanding disc intended for wood, lasted through 6 or 8 bars before I tore it up. Since both sided are fitted with the sanding discs it was a simple matter to flip the whole thing around and finish the rest of the bars on the other side.
I like to use the flashlight behind the square to make sure I have it properly positioned.
Some bars will have a bad burr on the edge and won't want to slide across the table so well, in that case I use the Pherd rail file accessory to clean them up before grinding, all of the edges are deburred again after grinding. I try to keep a few links of various pitch/gauge chain around to check the depth of the groove after grinding. Some of the old bars come to me pretty well worn...
I also have the Woodland bar rail closer so I can tighten a bar back up if it had begun to spread.
Mark
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