Carlton bars

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spd132

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I am needing a bar and chain for the 038 super I bought this past weekend and saw that Baileys has Carlton bars with a Woodland pro chain at a very good price. I use Woodland pro chains now on my other saws and think that that they are one of the better chains on the market, but haven't ever used a carlton bar. If anyone reading this has used carlton, please tell me what you think. Also should I get .050 0r .063?
 
After doing some research on the site it appears the bars are a good buy for the money. I ordered a 28" and LGX chain combo on sunday.
 
i use nothing but carlton bars and chains,,,,even when i buy a new saw the first thing is done is a new carlton is put on it
 
I have the 20" from Bailey's and it is a very well made bar. I have a 30" in my shopping cart, just waiting for a little extra cash to pull the trigger.
 
I have the 20" from Bailey's and it is a very well made bar. I have a 30" in my shopping cart, just waiting for a little extra cash to pull the trigger.


Does the sprocket tip on your Bailey's, Carlton 20" bar have play in it? I bought one for my 372 and mine has a little play in it. It pivots a little bit up and down from where the tip attaches to the bar. It still works good and might not hurt anything but I'd feel better if it fit tight like my other bars do.
 
German made and fully tempered like a good wrecking Bar.

The German Carlton bars are a couple steps above the Oregon power match IMO, and wear much better.

The Bailys sale is a steal.

Just a heads up though. It's becoming apparent that Carlton bars in the future will be nothing more than re-badged Oregon crap, so snag 'em while ya can.

My only complaint is that 3 out of 4 of the Carton bars had a load of the clear coat in the groove and needed a good scraping with an exacto knife, and a reaming of the oil holes with a busted drill bit.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Does the sprocket tip on your Bailey's, Carlton 20" bar have play in it? I bought one for my 372 and mine has a little play in it. It pivots a little bit up and down from where the tip attaches to the bar. It still works good and might not hurt anything but I'd feel better if it fit tight like my other bars do.

Clem, I have 4 of 'em. They all are good and tight on the tip.

Have ya tried peening the thing a bit?

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
[snip]

My only complaint is that 3 out of 4 of the Carton bars had a load of the clear coat in the groove and needed a good scraping with an exacto knife, and a reaming of the oil holes with a busted drill bit.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

...and the clear coat will melt everywhere in extreme cross cutting or ripping, gluing bloody saw dust and chips to the bar. It took a bit of effort with paint stripper and a scraper to get it all off.
There's been a number of reports back to the Australian importer about this happening and probably won't occur unless cutting harder than iron timber.

Bloody good piece of steel though, it's such a shame freight OS is a bit of a killer when you add a few bars together.
 
I second that on the clearcoat. Used mine for the first time yesterday and the clearcoat is trashed with sawdust sticking in it. What would be the easiest way to remove it short of using a wire wheel?
 
From the info I have picked up trough the years (they aren't sold here), I believe that the Carlton bars are a pretty mixed bunch - the better ones very good, but some cheaper ones not so good? :confused:

I understand they have them made deveral different places, around the world.
 
I second that on the clearcoat. Used mine for the first time yesterday and the clearcoat is trashed with sawdust sticking in it. What would be the easiest way to remove it short of using a wire wheel?

I am eyeballing a partial can of Airplane stripper myself.

It's been cold enough here so far to avoid any melting issues, but I hate the idea of it.

I'll post if I get around to it in the next couple days.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
I second that on the clearcoat. Used mine for the first time yesterday and the clearcoat is trashed with sawdust sticking in it. What would be the easiest way to remove it short of using a wire wheel?

Paint stripper, preferably one of the 'nasty' ones and a plastic scraper, it should come straight off with a little effort and some water. Obviously a wipe down with some Inox, WD-40, etc immediately after too.
 
Last edited:
From the info I have picked up trough the years (they aren't sold here), I believe that the Carlton bars are a pretty mixed bunch - the better ones very good, but some cheaper ones not so good? :confused:

I understand they have them made deveral different places, around the world.


Most of the current ones Baileys are flogging are the German ones which are pretty good but no where near the same finish as the Tsumura/Carlton bars.
The steel quality seems very comparable, but they do need a little re-finishing work to meet the Japanese made bars standards which I would rate as possibly the best in the world, at least the best that I have seen.

There are some Taiwanese Carlton bars too, but I have no idea what they are like. They could be very, very good, some Taiwanese manufactured/machined products are equal of the best in the world these days or they may be just average.
 
Does the sprocket tip on your Bailey's, Carlton 20" bar have play in it? I bought one for my 372 and mine has a little play in it. It pivots a little bit up and down from where the tip attaches to the bar. It still works good and might not hurt anything but I'd feel better if it fit tight like my other bars do.

Nope, no wiggle on mine.
 

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