Olympyk 980 Woods Port

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Hi Stihl Crazy, the saw has only been run maybe two hrs., I ran it without the filtre and filtre boot at a GTG in Ohio. I don't think it has ever seen a tree as I was the only owner.
Gypo

Guess I will take the saw. Just checked and I can get a new filter cover. 181 is the same part #.
 
The woods ported 980 is up and running ! ! !:clap:

Caber rings gapped 0.011" and 0.012". I believe this "C" jug is a bit oversize, hence the larger than normal gap. Still an improvement over the old rings.

I had no choice but to reinstall the world's wimpiest wrist pin clips, since no other kind of clip appears to fit.
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The homemade paper gasket got a light coat of hylomar. I like Hylomar for this because it has a long set up time, so I can work at my usual leisurely pace.
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The cylinder bolts were secured with a dab of blue loctite.
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Intake side going together.
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A new boot from Baileys. The old boot had shrunk and become stiff and was not sealing worth a hoot. The new boot is a different design that is secured by bolts and can't go anywhere. I highly recommend upgrading to the new boot.
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Carb and boot installed.
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This kill switch wire had been routed improperly and was grounding out on the frame. I replaced the coil last year because the ignition sometimes died, now I suspect this wire was the culprit all along. Anyway, a new wire was fabricated.
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The boot is greased, folded, and inserted into the special boot tool.

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Set the top cover in place and bolt it down.
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Pull the boot tool up and it should pull the boot up with it. Well, it pulls it most of the way up. Grab the tab on the boot with needle nose pliars and carefully pull the boot the rest of the way up.
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Boot seated. I smear grease around the boot to ensure a good seal.
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Had some trouble getting it running. It was flooding badly. I took the carb apart again to make sure everything was in order -- it was, but I found one more clogged jet, so it wasn't a waste of time.

Apparently the carb kit shifted the carb settings way off. I set the jets back to 1 turn on the H and 1 1/4 on the L, and got 'er started. Then it was just a matter of tuning it.

Burned up maybe half a tank of gas bucking firewood in the foggy, rainy, evening light. It's tuned pig rich for break-in, so it remains to be seen how much it has gained. It runs good, but then it always has.

Gypo asked if my 980 had a limited coil. I don't think so. Tonight I briefly ran it up to 13,200 RPM, and it was steady as a rock. After it breaks in, I'll run it up a little higher, but I'm pretty sure there is no limiter. The newer 81cc Efcos do have a 13,000 RPM limiter, but I'm not sure when that was introduced.
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Nice makeover so far mtngun and great idea with the boot tool.
Watch the plastic throttle linkage guide under the the hood. It can easily become misaligned.
Gypo
 
Boot seated. I smear grease around the boot to ensure a good seal.
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Had some trouble getting it running. It was flooding badly. I took the carb apart again to make sure everything was in order -- it was, but I found one more clogged jet, so it wasn't a waste of time.

Apparently the carb kit shifted the carb settings way off. I set the jets back to 1 turn on the H and 1 1/4 on the L, and got 'er started. Then it was just a matter of tuning it.

Burned up maybe half a tank of gas bucking firewood in the foggy, rainy, evening light. It's tuned pig rich for break-in, so it remains to be seen how much it has gained. It runs good, but then it always has.

Gypo asked if my 980 had a limited coil. I don't think so. Tonight I briefly ran it up to 13,200 RPM, and it was steady as a rock. After it breaks in, I'll run it up a little higher, but I'm pretty sure there is no limiter. The newer 81cc Efcos do have a 13,000 RPM limiter, but I'm not sure when that was introduced.
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Mine has the rev limiter on the carb, which should be easy to defeat. It's too bad the boot is so small. It really got up and talked without it.
Gypo
 
A new boot from Baileys. The old boot had shrunk and become stiff and was not sealing worth a hoot. The new boot is a different design that is secured by bolts and can't go anywhere. I highly recommend upgrading to the new boot.

Thanks very much for posting that...I highly agree and will be doing that upgrade. Also good tip about the grease to help seal the boot. Incoming rep if I can.

Kevin
 
I am fairly new here, and have been cruising around the threads. Icame across this thread ahd would be interested to hear how this turned out after break-in. I just picked up a "junk" 980. Actually it just needed a carb cleaning and adjustment. Anyway, it cuts good and is an extra saw for me, I would like to perform these mods if they are worth it. Thanks
 
Sorry for not following up on this thread.

The carb kit that I installed was the wrong one -- even though it was recommended by Walbro -- and made the Oly run inconsistently and generally too rich no matter how you tuned it. Also, I had accidentally activated the carb governor while cleaning the carb. That also made it run too rich. Those problems were written up in another thread.

Once the carb was fixed, the saw ran very, very well. It milled quite a bit of wood using a 36" bar, and power seemed comparable to 90cc saw.

The compression was pretty stout -- I never measured it, but I snapped the starter rope several times. :laugh: It'll get upgraded to an elastostart this winter.

However, the Oly continued to suck fines into the intake. I installed a new flocked filter, and that helped a little, but not nearly enough. I experimented with a thicker, softer, closed cell foam rubber seal around the filter. Sometimes it worked, other times fines still leaked around or through the filter. Lots and lots of fines, not just a little. I experimented with oiling the filter, and that helped, but there was still the leakage around the filter seal.

To make a long story short, I never found a satisfactory solution to the air filter problem. I think it is a very poor design, totally unacceptable for a pro saw.

As a result of sucking so much sawdust, it's lost some compression and will probably get a new piston this winter.

In the future, I will try to use the Oly only for cutting firewood, not for milling, because milling generates more dust than the Efco air filter can deal with.
 
Bought what appears to be a red and orange Oly that's supposed to need front anti-vib mounts, but sports 180+ PSI.

Unsure of the model. Any clues gents?

Where might I snag new mounts & miscellaneous parts?

I would start a new thread, yet there's so much Oly material here I thought I'd bump it/ride the coattails...
 
Looks to be a 999, good saw with tons of power. A hair over 100cc, but will run with an 084 all day. I fixed a very similar gas tank problem on a 999F belonging to a friend of mine. I used aircraft gas tank sealer and it's worked well since. I believe there are 6 AV mounts and replacing them is going to require some time because they are not easily accesible without tearing the saw apart. Luckily for me everything came apart easily. JJuday
 
Looks to be a 980 to me. Possibly a 981, I think they are virtually the same.
 
It appears to be a 970. I'm not sure what the difference is between the 970/980 971/981 other than size and production years.

I was hoping for the 80/81CC model as there only seems to be .2Kg weight penalty 'twixt the twain.

Any idea if the 980/981 hug/piston/wristpin will bolt up to the 970 case?

Claims 180+, I'm thinking no decompression valve on this model, so I'm gambling that the motor is tight...
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Orange, red & grey scheme.

Orange w/blk handles is supposed to be 970/980 OLYMPYK.

Orange w/gray is 971/981 OLEO-MAC, but it started production in 2001 & this saw shows red tank w/1999.

Is this a Frankensaw mix of the two series?

I realize that I can't put much stock in the bar, but it comes w/30" b/c.

In the Oleo3 pic that muffler port looks like it'd swallow my thumb...
 
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I was watching that one also. It doesn't look my 999 either. If it has the large Stihl bar mount like on the 076 and 084 then its a 999. If it has the Large mount Homelite size bar then I think its a 980/970. Still should be a nice saw. Post on it when you get it and get it running.
 
I'll post the numbers on the bar & try to determine what size mount.

The gray suggests 71/81, but I asked the local expert w/serial Number/1999 date and he sez 970.

So, I'm thinking mix n match w/red & orange. If I'm not mistaken, and oft am, the serial #/date tag is on the tank that's red while the case is orange.

Anywho, I don't think the 71 or 81 should be pulling a 30 b'c, but the 80/81 would have a better go of it as long as you didn't bury it in seasoned hard wood.

They said it runs, so we'll see.

I'm quickly going broke buying assorted, obsolete saws.

I was hoping to snag one that could pull a 24-28" b/c and sell the 390XP that was a tad expensive for my needs.

Thanks for the replies gents. I have to fab an ash bin for the insert as I'm ready to burn some wood & I've just about let the cold weather slip up on me...
 
Either a 970 or 980. Only difference is the bore size. Definitely not a 999.

980 cylinders have a fitting for a decomp valve, even if the valve is not installed. A Husky decomp will work. Not sure if 970 jugs also have the decomp fitting.

A 970 should be fine with a 24" - 28" bar.
 
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Thanks for the tid-bit on the decompression valve.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for a fitting.

Did they come w/red & orange mixed or has someone built this from differing models/years?

Do you figure 970/980 on the orange painted case?
 
My 999 is a red orange mix. I also just bought a real clean 264 deluxe and its a red and orange one also. I wondered if my 999 was a pieced together saw, but I've since seen several Oly's that are of various colors. The 264 is way to clean to have been a frankensaw so my guess is that Oly had its parts coming from differant sources hence the color differances.
 
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