Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well...no. Green (or high moisture wood) consumes much of the heat content stored in that wood to boil the moister out. Wood can't burn until the moister is gone (hence your longer burn). I have seen figures that can go as high as 10-15% of a logs energy can be wasted trying to boil moisture out,
The 10% IMHO is not significant.
That to burn it "best" you need an old fashion Boxwood or other stove from the era before the mid-70s airtight stoves is significant. They run about 30% efficiency. Good news is they burn just about anything, shoving enough heat up the chimney that the water and smoke doesn't have much time to condense to form creosote.
Fisher and copy cat airtight stoves from the 70s run about 60% efficiency. Maybe it's just me, but it seems that there was a surge in chimney fires that corresponded with the heyday of the airtights.
The modern EPA stoves demand seasoned firewood, but burn at 80% efficiency. Secondary burns reduce the amount of fuel that was sent up the chimney to potentially form creosote. Not so many chimney fires anymore.
Being able to go from a Boxwood burning green at 30% efficiency to an EPA at 80% is a gain of 50% BTUs from the same (but seasoned) wood. The 10% lost to boiling off water isn't that much compared to the 40-50% you can gain if you're able to use an EPA stove.
Dry wood in a Boxwood will heat faster because it releases more BTUs/hour. Wet wood may only cost you 10% of the BTUs, but I'm guesstimating based on my boxwood it takes 25 -- 30% longer to deliver the BTUs it does due to the longer time it takes to burn.