Bucking Small Logs - See Diagrams
- Thread starter MtnHermit
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slangegger
ArboristSite Lurker
Im no where near experienced enough to say "how you know". I always assume that all trees with a root ball are capable of this. I dont think there is a "golden rule" that applies. If there is, Im sure one of the fallers here would know.
I hate to say it, but Im gonna guess that the Pros are going to tell you that with your cutting experience, your should not tackle a dangerous job by yourself, a mile from your car.
I hate to say it, but Im gonna guess that the Pros are going to tell you that with your cutting experience, your should not tackle a dangerous job by yourself, a mile from your car.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
That is so cool, he knew it would relax in a few seconds. You can't learn that except by doing.
I'll watch, where are they?
Thanks, great post.
slangegger
ArboristSite Lurker
In the lower right hand corner of the video, click where it shows the "youtube" icon. That will take you directly to youtube. You will be able to see the other videos on the sidebar (part 2;3;4 etc)
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
Indeed, but I also shouldn't go on multi-day backpacks by myself either, but I do. I cannot live my life afraid of every shadow.
Thanks
slangegger
ArboristSite Lurker
I just wanted to give you a heads up of the advice to come.
Stay safe.
Stay safe.
Samlock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, root balls will sit back. I know some people tell just the opposite, but that's why you should always start by cutting the timber off the stump first before bucking. Goes with both standing and blown down trees, haha.
About cutting the small logs with a top bind - don't make your first cut straight (I mean horizontally) from above of the log, but a bit more on the side you're standing. That's how you can make the second cut to meet the first cut on the opposite side first, and the strip which will the last one left to hold the wood before it drops won't actually be in the middle of the log, but a bit on the side, and you can get it out of the cut before the logs will drop.
I don't know if my explanation makes any sense.
About cutting the small logs with a top bind - don't make your first cut straight (I mean horizontally) from above of the log, but a bit more on the side you're standing. That's how you can make the second cut to meet the first cut on the opposite side first, and the strip which will the last one left to hold the wood before it drops won't actually be in the middle of the log, but a bit on the side, and you can get it out of the cut before the logs will drop.
I don't know if my explanation makes any sense.
sawinredneck
Addicted to ArboristSite
I don't think he meant any disrespect, but was saying it might be a good idea to learn and practice these new skills in a safer environment, closer to home and where you can have a little more control, rather than being that far from help if something were to go wrong.
slangegger
ArboristSite Lurker
bingo!
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
I'm convinced, the video shows the entire cut from the top by simply using the 10" wedge. Even though the top was in compression like my example. Seems a lot safer than using a mostly bottom up cut.
[video=youtube;jnm8WbkjzRM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnm8WbkjzRM&feature=relmfu[/video]
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
I found nothing disrespectful in his post, nor did I intend any in my reply. I have no problem with learning even if it implies a mild rebuke. I took it as a well intended message.
Not sure I have any "safer" learning opportunities, but I will think on it. I do know that the trail has several deadfall groups from 1/4-mile on up and I'll learn as I go. Just as an optimist, I assume I can do it all in a day.
Thanks
Something else to keep in mind, most saw related accidents happen first thing in the day. As in not having your mind on the work.....Just had a fight with the wife or, wonder if there are any Chupacabras around here?
Or the last thing in the day when you are dead tired and just have to get the last tree.
Or the last thing in the day when you are dead tired and just have to get the last tree.
MtnHermit
ArboristSite Operative
Makes sense, but this will be old deadfall, so the earth has been washed away, not likely to stand up. None the less, I will carefully examine every rootball to judge the potential. I did not know of the danger before today, now I do.
I read the text several times, still a little confused. I put up a cut sequence, perhaps you could use the numbers in it to explain. You suggest I start by combining 2 & 3, assuming I'm standing closest to 3? Then what?
Thanks
I like to treat wedges the same as I do 4WD: use the 2WD to get INTO trouble, 4WD to get out. It's the "Use A Bigger Hammer" approach -- if you get stuck starting out with your biggest hammer, you're screwed. Work up to the big guns. In this case, I recommend starting the cut without a wedge, as the wedge can give you a false sense of security. If you need to wedge yourself out, so be it -- your wedge isn't already stuck in the log. Try to always leave yourself something in reserve -- a wedge, another bar and chain, another saw, a peavey, whatever. The goal is to be both self-sufficient and safe.
Samlock
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ok, you read my mind correctly, first you do 2&3. Then you pull the saw out of the top cut and do 1 from below. Then 4&5. This goes only with small timber, diameter will be less than your bar lenght.
Lotta good advice given here.
One thing to try before you get to work at 12000 feet, is test your saw is tuned to actually run well at that elevation. Quick car ride up a mountain pass nearby for the test will save some you some frustration later on. What works at 9000....
BC Faller Training Standards, Part 2 (PDF) is available online and will likely answer some of the terminology on bucking along with providing examples of bucking.
Here are some variations of the original sketch you posted. Bucking from the top down may or may not be a practical or 'safer' approach.
Good luck on the job.
View attachment 195034
One thing to try before you get to work at 12000 feet, is test your saw is tuned to actually run well at that elevation. Quick car ride up a mountain pass nearby for the test will save some you some frustration later on. What works at 9000....
BC Faller Training Standards, Part 2 (PDF) is available online and will likely answer some of the terminology on bucking along with providing examples of bucking.
Here are some variations of the original sketch you posted. Bucking from the top down may or may not be a practical or 'safer' approach.
Good luck on the job.
View attachment 195034
For goodness sake, I hope you are taking a file and or extra chain with you. If your chain gets dull, it makes things harder, and you are more likely to get stuck.
12,000 feet or no, you still need to take along the basics.
12,000 feet or no, you still need to take along the basics.
You're back again? You have a bad attitude dude! Don't expect any help from me or most of the people on this forum. Go to expertvillage.com for your chainsaw advice.
That is a good question!
I think you need to be sort of a structural engineer sometimes and study a particular tree laying on the ground. Figure out what it is going to do when you cut this. Then what it is going to do when you cut that.
They will surprise you sometimes and things will go a different direction than you would think!
I guess look for "energy". Potential energy. Is there pressure on a limb?
Things held up in the air have potential energy to fall. Or limbs up in the air attached to a trunk of a tree may be balancing it on the ground. If you cut something on the opposite side, those limbs in the air can cause the trunk of the tree/log to roll due to a sudden imbalance.
Or limbs under a tree may be holding the trunk/log up. Also might have pressure on them. Cut it and the limb might snap toward you, then the log could fall on your toes! (Double Ouch!)
Some "slabbing." I am the slabber.
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