Building a chainsaw workshop - Ideas, Comments, Suggestions...

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I'd paint the walls and ceilings white...even if just a Kilz or Zinsser primer. It'll really help light the place up...lighting (or lack there of) is one of my biggest pet peeves, so I do everythign I can to add as much light as possible, and make it reflect the best. Also, Rustoleum makes a wonderful paint for the work bench surface. So grease and oil doesn't soak into the wood and make it all nasty and such, especially if using OSB. It makes cleanup real easy. Even though it says it is for concrete, I used it on my bench for a durable surface, and so far so good.

Rust-Oleum EPOXYShield Concrete Floor Paint Armor Gray at Menards

and when I get around to it, this will be going on the walls and ceiling.

Zinsser Fastprime Oil Base Primer at Menards

Good advice. I know how well my unpainted block in the basement soaks up light, probably a coat of white paint will be in order.

I work in a metal shop, there's a very good chance that the workbench tops will be stainless steel coil ends, not pretty enough to make parts out of, but good enough for this hillbilly.
 
DOn't know what you had planned for lighting...I'd use 4' flourescent myself, but if you want to get by cheaper, I have another idea. I have these lights with just a cheap keyless lampholder that I flip on if I just run in to grab something, so I'm not firing up all the flourescent lights for a qucik sec, just to shut back off...they light up pretty well. Don't flip out on the price, as I can't find a smaller pack online, but near me they were like $13 for a 6 pack.

Incandescent PS30 Bulb Shape 120 Volt 300 Watt 60 Pack at Menards
 
-a comfortable chair
-a sheet of rubber horse mat right at the work bench. nice to stand on, easy to clean...
 
DOn't know what you had planned for lighting...I'd use 4' flourescent myself, but if you want to get by cheaper, I have another idea. I have these lights with just a cheap keyless lampholder that I flip on if I just run in to grab something, so I'm not firing up all the flourescent lights for a qucik sec, just to shut back off...they light up pretty well. Don't flip out on the price, as I can't find a smaller pack online, but near me they were like $13 for a 6 pack.

Incandescent PS30 Bulb Shape 120 Volt 300 Watt 60 Pack at Menards

Planning on a couple plain old incandescent fixtures that are in the shop for "quick light", probably with instant on florescent bulbs in em.

-a comfortable chair
-a sheet of rubber horse mat right at the work bench. nice to stand on, easy to clean...

Here in America's Dairyland, we call em cow mats, but good idea. We have em at work, much nicer than standing on concrete for 8-12 hours a day for sure.
 
Not needed, my 870 leans up in a corner quite well.

On a related topic, anyone interested in helping me lug an 800# gun safe down a set of stairs into the basement?
 
Not needed, my 870 leans up in a corner quite well.

On a related topic, anyone interested in helping me lug an 800# gun safe down a set of stairs into the basement?

well, i'd use a chainsaw(if you have one) and do a wile e coyote move by cutting the floor under the safe..

after that you should probably move to northern afghanistan, you'd be way safer there when your wife finds out that you cut a hole in her floor...
 
Nice score!

I've been mulling over the idea of a little "outpost" building for dressing game and drying fur. No money for it though. :(

At least someone else knows what stretching and drying fur is. As for money if that is why you do it then you are in it for the wrong reason
 
Not needed, my 870 leans up in a corner quite well.

On a related topic, anyone interested in helping me lug an 800# gun safe down a set of stairs into the basement?

i would love to help mate but im on the other side of the pond i move them everyday lol you prob need a min of 3 people and snatch straps im making a gunsafe as we speak
 
Something I found a bit a doller saver was to look around for someone putting in a new kitchen, see if you can get an old kitchen from somone, the cupboards are real good for the workshop, usally pepole just pull them out throw them away becouse they look out of date,
have a look at the photo of my workshop, the cupboards on the lefthand side are from an old kitchen,

attachment.php
 
When building you workbench(es) think about where you will put your feed as you're standing there. Nothing hurts more than having to lean over those extra inches if you don't provide a "toe kick".

If you run out of SS coil or would like a softer bench top, I still have quite a few pieces of counter top that came from the old Engineering offices, thick, heavy, formica clad stuff would make a great bench.

For lighting, consider HO flourescent fixtures as they provide a lot of light and come on at any temperature.

I put in a lot of electrical outlets when my new garage/workshop was built, including a number of hanging one right overhead typical work spots, that way I only need to reach up to plug something in and don't have to run cord across the floor.

Two of the best things I did for my shop were:

1) Air lines plumbed in the wall with a retractable reel just above my chainsaw bench

2) Commercial grade shop vac, really helps keep the floor clean

Of course the radiant in floor heating is great in the winter, and I've added a small window AC unit for the hotteste days in summer, but those may not apply to your project.

Mark
 
my 2c for what its worth.....

Start with pressure treated for the base that sits on concrete blocks. It's a little more work and not much money to take apart that decking and get some green lumber under them before you start. Much better in the long run!

I have lots of farmer buds with a dogs breakfast of buildings so I know what you are talking about. If they don't rot, they can last a long time. That's why I say at least get the bottom runners done with pressure treated.

+1

If you use T111 siding or one of its competitors for the walls... READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. There's got to be drip edges with clearance and the guarantee is only valid if you follow the instructions. And guess what, if you do follow the instructions, it'll outlast you.

I was just at a professionally built building today where the T111 ran right down to the concrete foundation slab. I bet it looked great when new. Otherwise it was "well built" but of course the siding was rotting from the bottom up because they didn't follow the instructions.

Just for fun, keep this in mind whenever you see a building with T111 type siding. In my area, at least, almost all are improperly constructed.

HF
 
I have no less than 40 steel filing cabinets in my shop. I use them for tool storage, hardware storage, parts storage, storing cans of aerosols, etc. I have bars in one drawer, chain reels in another, Husky parts in one drawer, Stihl parts in another. They don't soak up oil like wood dressers and cabinets and can be found cheap. In this area now, on the used market like estate sales, a 4 drawer goes for $10 to $40. I probably paid an average of $20 per item for the 4 drawer ones. I have finally stopped buying them after about 8 years of accumulating them. Just don't need any more. (or have the room)
 
That reminds me........................I need to search my local CL for a cheap little beer fridge for the shop. I knew there was something I'd been forgetting. Best thing is...........my WIFE is the one who suggested it. She's told me that working on saws and drinking a few beers in the shop puts me in a better mood....:clap:

She just wants your beer out of her fridge. You HAVE to know that. :D :D :D
 
I'd poor a concrete slab with some foam under it for a floor.

Use treated lumber next to the concrete then use your crate material.

I've made a lot of out buildings from crate materials. Works out pretty well.

Those hardened nails with the glue on them are hard to get out of the skids.
 
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