stihl 044 top end question.

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PaulW

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Nov 1, 2010
Messages
14
Reaction score
1
Location
Plainville CT
Cylinder is burnt. Whole top end needs to be replaced. Its an 044 with the 10mm pin. I would love a big bore top end, but will the saw survive with the 10mm pin? I'm on a shoe string budget, and seriously behind on my winter wood supply. I can't afford $350 for oem parts right now, so I have to go aftermarket. Which is the better aftermarket brand to use? Should I stay with tge 50mm bore, or go with 52mm bore? I need the saw up and running like yesterday, but I'm on a $150 budget.
 
I think baileys has an aftermarket piston for those now or someone was making one. The cylinder could clean up. Just post pictures and we'll help you out.
 
Shoestring budget and behind on winter wood? Stay with the stock bore.

But post some good pics of your cylinder and piston first. you'd be surprised at what can be fixed.
 
I'm going to stay with the standard bore. Are there any better aftermarket brands then others? How do I attach pics? Link through photobucket?
 
IMG_20120807_185621.jpg


Exhaust side. Intake looked almost new. Cylinder matches tbe piston precisely.
 
If you can get a good picture of the exhaust side of the cylinder it may be able to be saved with some muriatic acid and a little time.
 
Looks savable to me. Hit it with muratic acud the a brake hone very quick and toss a piston in it. My 10mm 044 was string in stock form
 
Here goes nothing....

At the risk of being banned I have a good aftermarket piston kit for it that I didn't use for a saw build cause the dope didn't know what saw he had.

I am offering it so I can pay my sponsorship and get started again.

Please forgive me Darin :bowdown:
 
How about hlsproparts.com? Entire cylinder kit for $80. Seems pretty cheap to be good quality.

Don't know who's set they are selling but there are a lot of problematic top end kits.

If you can save your OEM cylinder it is always better to just go after market on the piston.

I have seen VERY few after market cylinders with straight accurate bores and even cut finished ports out of the box and the ones that are the best are more $ than that as a rule.

Never know though and if your jug is unusable you can try that route just make sure they back up their product.

Ask any builder how much work there is to get an aftermarket kit straightened out to come close to stock performance and longevity.
 
Used OEM Cylinders +++

I've built a couple of dozen saws so far and have always had good luck "refreshing" the OEM cylinder with muriatic acid as suggested. On the rare occasion that hasn't worked, I've resorted to replacing the cylinders with only good used OEM cylinders purchased off Ebay. Have heard many stories of failed aftermarket cylinders and rings. Pistons have mostly been Meteor, as they already come with Caber rings. If your cylinder can't be saved, go with a good used OEM. Many good ones can be obtained from Chainsawr.com (site sponser) for a very reasonable price, often cheaper than a Chinese knock-off. Have had zero problems using OEM jugs and Meteor / Episan pistons thus far. Save yourself the trouble. Follow the advice of many of this sites very knowledgeable builders.
 
Last edited:
I've built a couple of dozen saws so far and have always had good luck "refreshing" the OEM cylinder with muriatic acid as suggested. On the rare occasion that hasn't worked, I've resorted to replacing the cylinders with only good used OEM cylinders purchased off Ebay. Have heard many stories of failed aftermarket cylinders and rings. Pistons have mostly been Meteor, as they already come with Caber rings. If your cylinder can't be saved, go with a good used OEM. Many good ones can be obtained from Chainsawr.com (site sponser) for a very reasonable price, often cheaper than a Chinese knock-off. Have had zero problems using OEM jugs and Meteor / Episan pistons thus far. Save yourself the trouble. Follow the advice of many of this sites very knowledgeable builders.

Almost invariably the low cost after market cylinder ports are not chamfered and the port will catch rings and in particular the slotted rings as there are two edges on each ring to catch the port on each ring and in both directions.

They slotted the rings to cut down on break in time but they skipped the final work on the cylinders and they go scatter bomb when you just slap them together.
 
I've built a couple of dozen saws so far and have always had good luck "refreshing" the OEM cylinder with muriatic acid as suggested. On the rare occasion that hasn't worked, I've resorted to replacing the cylinders with only good used OEM cylinders purchased off Ebay. Have heard many stories of failed aftermarket cylinders and rings. Pistons have mostly been Meteor, as they already come with Caber rings. If your cylinder can't be saved, go with a good used OEM. Many good ones can be obtained from Chainsawr.com (site sponser) for a very reasonable price, often cheaper than a Chinese knock-off. Have had zero problems using OEM jugs and Meteor / Episan pistons thus far. Save yourself the trouble. Follow the advice of many of this sites very knowledgeable builders.


A used cylinder sounds like a goid idea. Ill post a pic of mine to seee if everyone thinks it's savalgeable. And finally, that's why I'm asking questions here.
 
I have two 044's built on 10mm pin cranks , with a ported "slant fin" OEM jugs & they are absoslute beasts, so don't shy away from the 10mm pin saws.

Steve

I have also owned a 10mm 044. I dont really understand what your saying, they do run great, but theres no Big bore kit for them without some serious modifications, and that is all i said.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top