McCulloch Chain Saws

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Those saws have always been pretty straight forward to repair. What kind of problems are you having?

Walbro H4-44A carb. when I first drug the saw hone I replaced the coil and took the carb apart just to flush it out. Diaphragm was stiff but I cleaned it and put it back together. She fired but I could tell the carb was struggling so I didnt rap on it, no big deal I expected to rebuild it and just wanted to know she was going to run.

Ordered the master rebuild kit. replaced, screens, caps etc. Before so I soaked it in gas over night and blew it all out with air. Gaskets are in correct order as well as diaphragm and gasket. Diaphragm is connected to inlet lever as it should be.

Idles good. Quick response up to 1/2 throttle. After half throttle she bogs (sounds like it starving for fuel) even if you slowly run the rpms up or go wot. Brand new fuel line and filter but I did check for restrictions, none. Take apart and reset the inlet lever height. Blowing into inlet no air moves, needle is seating. Push diaphragm upwards in access hole and air moves, should be ok.

Put back on and fire it, same thing. 1/2 throttle it bogs and now fuel is filling up around base of carb, needle not seating. :bang: Ok, maybe I cant set inlet lever height, although Ive done many , and throw old lever and needle in. Re install, same thing at half throttle but needle is seating. Low side setting is working properly, Hi side I started at 1 turn out and have gone almostg to backing it out with no difference. Removing the high side screw and blowing air in the passage is clear, no restrictions.

To make sure its starving for fuel I run it up about half throttle and right before it bogs I mist the carb with fuel. I do not like running WOT on a stand but she acted just fine and wound up without bogging.

At this point Im tired of cleaning oil out of the floor and looking at this dang carb so I came in for a beer and a cigar :D Just having one of those days I guess.
 
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As Joey mentioned, the automatic oiler is inside the oil tank. The adjustment screw frequently has a hex head, not a slotted head, I believe it requires a 1/4" wrench. It may, or may not be fit with a lock nut; the lock nut was used most often with the "tab" style of bracket to help hold the oil pump against the seal. The later spring version that wedged against the top of the tank was much more effective (shown on the left in the photo).

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Mark
 
380, odd looking apparatus in carb box

I posted a pic of the carb box on my 380 and a few people commented on the odd looking thingy beside the carb. I tried to get the saw going and could not so I pulled the carb, cleaned it and reset the metering lever which was about 1/6" above the carb body.

The carb was full of gas so I'm hoping that this was the issue. I pulled that thing out and found that it is connected to the crankcase via a barb and hose. I would have to assume that since it is attached to the throttle shaft and there is no spring present that this controls the saw's idle. I will definitely be able to see that see if I can get it running.

Here's a few pics of the setup, you can see the link to the throttle shaft, the barb in the air box, the hose attached to the ???? whatever it is (blurry photo) and the ???? itself.
 
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A special thanks out to sefh3 for thinking of me at Christmas time. I now have a pack of genuine McCulloch 1/4" files I can use to maintain 1/2" and 9/16" pitch chains.

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The box will remain in the collection even once the files are eventually used up.


Mark

Glad you got it Mark. Now I wonder who provided Scott with your address...:D

Walbro H4-44A carb. when I first drug the saw hone I replaced the coil and took the carb apart just to flush it out. Diaphragm was stiff but I cleaned it and put it back together. She fired but I could tell the carb was struggling so I didnt rap on it, no big deal I expected to rebuild it and just wanted to know she was going to run.

Ordered the master rebuild kit. replaced, screens, caps etc. Before so I soaked it in gas over night and blew it all out with air. Gaskets are in correct order as well as diaphragm and gasket. Diaphragm is connected to inlet lever as it should be.

Idles good. Quick response up to 1/2 throttle. After half throttle she bogs (sounds like it starving for fuel) even if you slowly run the rpms up or go wot. Brand new fuel line and filter but I did check for restrictions, none. Take apart and reset the inlet lever height. Blowing into inlet no air moves, needle is seating. Push diaphragm upwards in access hole and air moves, should be ok.

Put back on and fire it, same thing. 1/2 throttle it bogs and now fuel is filling up around base of carb, needle not seating. :bang: Ok, maybe I cant set inlet lever height, although Ive done many , and throw old lever and needle in. Re install, same thing at half throttle but needle is seating. Low side setting is working properly, Hi side I started at 1 turn out and have gone almostg to backing it out with no difference. Removing the high side screw and blowing air in the passage is clear, no restrictions.

To make sure its starving for fuel I run it up about half throttle and right before it bogs I mist the carb with fuel. I do not like running WOT on a stand but she acted just fine and wound up without bogging.

At this point Im tired of cleaning oil out of the floor and looking at this dang carb so I came in for a beer and a cigar :D Just having one of those days I guess.

Put the new needle back in there. Some mung probably made its way past the filter and kept your needle off of the seat when it failed the pressure test. I'm thinking your bogging problem doesn't lie in the carb. Have you pulled the muffler cover off and checked the spark screen? I'm thinking that it's plugged up. If so, take the screen out, hold it with pliers, and burn it off with a torch.
 
A special thanks out to sefh3 for thinking of me at Christmas time. I now have a pack of genuine McCulloch 1/4" files I can use to maintain 1/2" and 9/16" pitch chains.

attachment.php


The box will remain in the collection even once the files are eventually used up.


Mark

I got a second hand loop and saw chain box and new chain joiner just like yours a few weeks ago the chain will go on my second BP-1 and the box will go in my display case next to my first BP-1

McBob.
 
Put the new needle back in there. Some mung probably made its way past the filter and kept your needle off of the seat when it failed the pressure test. I'm thinking your bogging problem doesn't lie in the carb. Have you pulled the muffler cover off and checked the spark screen? I'm thinking that it's plugged up. If so, take the screen out, hold it with pliers, and burn it off with a torch.

Had previously pulled the exhaust when I was cleaning it up, waiting on carb kit, positive there is no blockage there. It was cleaner than I expected considering the conditon of the outside of the machine.

Took the carb body over to a buddys and sonic cleaned it this morning. Put the new needle back in. Before putting it back on I inspected gaskets even though I feel its not an air leak. When its running I can close the choke and kill it so I feel comfortable the carb itself is seated. I put a small amount of vacuum to the gas line and made sure its flowing and that the filter was sunk and still attached to the line.

Installed another new plug. Im postive the Decomp valve is working. Went back and checked the gap on the coil I just installed. Feeling pretty good now so I put the carb back on. Pull fuel up the line and install it. Small mist of fuel in the carb she fires third pull. Sounds good so I set the Lo side and give her a rap......same thing:bang:

No matter where Hi / Lo are set I get the same thing but can run her up hi rpms misting the carb. I am going to grab another carb tomorrow and see where it goes.

My first McCulloch is determined not to run but Im not giving up her just yet. If I do its not going to be pretty :D
 

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