Introducing Brand New Wood Furnace to Market - The Drolet Tundra!

[stihly dan]

Sorry Mis-spoke on the primary air damper. It it on a on/off wall switch. On power outage damper automatically close. The thermodisk measures the firebox temps. Kick in point of 125f blower comes on. Kick out point of 115f.

Thermostat kit measures plenum temps and controls the damper. The thermodisk still controls the blower.

We're working on listing the retails stores but likely at Menards, Family Farm and others. Will also be available online at various e-tailers like Northern Tools.

So if you don't by the t-stat kit. The operation of the fire box is manual? How then do you open the damper? Or is the blower a combustion blower? Sorry for all the questions, just can't make sense of it. I would think thermo disc controls damper, T-stat controls blower, or blower and damper.

 

[4seasons]

What about dimensions? Particularly the firebox, what size logs will it take? And what sq/ft is it rated to heat? Oh by the way does it have a shaker grate or just an ash clean out?

 

[hapec12]

Tundra:

What are the B.T.U.'s? I have a 36'X52' garage with 12' ceiling. Need something BIG.
Available where in southern Michigan? T.S.C. in my town.
Thank You.

 

[brenndatomu]

What are the B.T.U.'s? I have a 36'X52' garage with 12' ceiling. Need something BIG.
Available where in southern Michigan? T.S.C. in my town.
Thank You.

Post #14, 130k BTU.

 

[laynes69]

I would think that rating of 130,000 btus would be input, output would be lower. Still, for a EPA certified unit, it's a large firebox.

 

[WidowMaker]

What are the B.T.U.'s? I have a 36'X52' garage with 12' ceiling. Need something BIG.
Available where in southern Michigan? T.S.C. in my town.
Thank You.

Thats only appr 1900 sq ft, if its insulated you shouldn't need anything that BIG.

Many of us are heating more with less...

 

[Streblerm]

What are the B.T.U.'s? I have a 36'X52' garage with 12' ceiling. Need something BIG.
Available where in southern Michigan? T.S.C. in my town.
Thank You.

You might want to do a heat loss calculation for your building. Figuring out if a heating device will work based on square footage claims is kind of like buying face cords.

Home Heat Loss Calculator

12' ceilings make your building different to heat than a typical house with 8' walls.

 

[Fyrebug]

So if you don't by the t-stat kit. The operation of the fire box is manual? How then do you open the damper? Or is the blower a combustion blower? Sorry for all the questions, just can't make sense of it. I would think thermo disc controls damper, T-stat controls blower, or blower and damper.

Without T-stat, the distribution blower kicks on & off with the thermodisk much like a blower on an insert. The damper is operated manually on an on/off electrical switch. The reason for the electrical on/off on the damper is to meet UL safety if the power goes out the plenum temps dont over reach safe limits.

There is no combustion blower.

T-stat kit operates the damper while the distribution blower still is on the thermodisk kick on/off temps.

 

[hapec12]

Drolet:

You might want to do a heat loss calculation for your building. Figuring out if a heating device will work based on square footage claims is kind of like buying face cords.

Home Heat Loss Calculator

12' ceilings make your building different to heat than a typical house with 8' walls.

Thanks for the Calculator. It's a new garage. Trying to figure all angles before investing. The insulation will go in this summer, and wondering about sidewall insulation, weather to use fiberglass, or spray foam, or what. Ceiling to be sheet steel, with blown insulation on top.
Still have plenty to do before building a fire.

 

[Fyrebug]

Like any other heating appliances stats you have to take a few things into consideration:

Square footage: It depends on your insulation, height of ceiling, location of house, latitude, prevailing winds etc...

BTU: is rated like any other wood furnace in the industry... Input BTU on high fire. All the literature is not completed yet but we also list an "average BTU" that is a rule of thumb typical BTU output over the life of the fire as if it was a gas or oil furnace. That rating is about 65,000 BTU over the life of the fire. Again, if you are on the west coast or Alaska you have to adjust for soft wood.

As somebody else mentioned a heat loss calculation or blower test will reveal what kind of BTU load your house is under and size the furnace accordingly.

As I've said many times before... Wood burning is an inexact science.

However, you may want to ask Laynes69 about his experience since he has a very similar firebox.

 

[Fyrebug]

What are the B.T.U.'s? I have a 36'X52' garage with 12' ceiling. Need something BIG.
Available where in southern Michigan? T.S.C. in my town.
Thank You.

Do you have a Family Farm near by? I'll be in Muskegon in a couple of weeks.

 

[hapec12]

Drolet:

Do you have a Family Farm near by? I'll be in Muskegon in a couple of weeks.

Muskegon is about 125 miles away. We have a T.S.C. store locally. I'm between Jackson and Battle Creek,Mi.

 

[Streblerm]

Thanks for the Calculator. It's a new garage. Trying to figure all angles before investing. The insulation will go in this summer, and wondering about sidewall insulation, weather to use fiberglass, or spray foam, or what. Ceiling to be sheet steel, with blown insulation on top.
Still have plenty to do before building a fire.

that calculator seems to work pretty well. I believe it came a lot closer to my home's heating needs than the "pro calculation" that was done when I put in my heat pump.

 

[Fyrebug]

Muskegon is about 125 miles away. We have a T.S.C. store locally. I'm between Jackson and Battle Creek,Mi.

There's a FF in Mason & Battle Creek. They wont have any to show until late August early Sept.

 

[hapec12]

Drolet Tundra:

There's a FF in Mason & Battle Creek. They wont have any to show until late August early Sept.

Thank You. I will be Impatiently waiting to see one when they arrive.

 

[hapec12]

Drolet Tundra:

Your Literature states that it will heat up to 2500 sq.ft.. Is that figured with a 8 ft. ceiling? As in 50X50X8. Mine is 36X52X12. 2464 cu.ft. more.
Am I thinking correctly?

 

[Fyrebug]

Your Literature states that it will heat up to 2500 sq.ft.. Is that figured with a 8 ft. ceiling? As in 50X50X8. Mine is 36X52X12. 2464 cu.ft. more.
Am I thinking correctly?

How old is the house, how is it partitioned, what is the level of insulation, what are you currently using to heat it with, if oil/gas what is the BTU value of the furnace and does it cycle fast?

As you can tell by the questions, every situation is different. A brand new 3,000 Sq Ft house that is LEEDS or 2000 certified (really tight house in Canada for ex. ) the furnace will do quite well... the ductwork design will also determine what is required.

If you have an old stone 2,000 sq ft farmhouse with little insulation on top of a hill in Northern Wisconsin you will have problems.

Sorry, dont want to discourage anyone but this is one of those question that could really come back to haunt you if you dont do your homework.

The heat/loss calculation somebody posted here will help as well as a blower test performed by a professional. Besides that, you may want to tell us as much as possible about your house, age, insulation, material, current furnace(s), pictures etc... and we can provide a rough estimate.

 

[arrow]

How old is the house, how is it partitioned, what is the level of insulation, what are you currently using to heat it with, if oil/gas what is the BTU value of the furnace and does it cycle fast?

As you can tell by the questions, every situation is different. A brand new 3,000 Sq Ft house that is LEEDS or 2000 certified (really tight house in Canada for ex. ) the furnace will do quite well... the ductwork design will also determine what is required.

If you have an old stone 2,000 sq ft farmhouse with little insulation on top of a hill in Northern Wisconsin you will have problems.

Sorry, dont want to discourage anyone but this is one of those question that could really come back to haunt you if you dont do your homework.

The heat/loss calculation somebody posted here will help as well as a blower test performed by a professional. Besides that, you may want to tell us as much as possible about your house, age, insulation, material, current furnace(s), pictures etc... and we can provide a rough estimate.

My log home (1600 sq) is hydronic. R values are pathetic. (R-8 walls, R-14 roof) As I have no ducting and a wood boiler would cost $10,000, I could use something like this if minimal ducting could be retrofitted. Right now have a convection wood stove in the basement with a collection hood on top ducted directly above to living room. Does pretty well but after successive 25*days, have to turn on oil fired boiler to supplement. Anything to show how to duct this for an existing home?

 

[blades]

You could pull up a manual for just about any wood fired furnace to see the basic requirements. Pretty much the same for any of them as fae as tieing into existing duct work. You have hydroponic so no duct work existing which means you would have to create some. Real basic is if you are pumping hot air in ya need to have an exit for the cold, preferably to the cold air intake of the furnace.

 

[Fyrebug]

My log home (1600 sq) is hydronic. R values are pathetic. (R-8 walls, R-14 roof) As I have no ducting and a wood boiler would cost $10,000, I could use something like this if minimal ducting could be retrofitted. Right now have a convection wood stove in the basement with a collection hood on top ducted directly above to living room. Does pretty well but after successive 25*days, have to turn on oil fired boiler to supplement. Anything to show how to duct this for an existing home?

I would assume Rhode Island does not get as cold as Canada or North US Midwest. The furnace *should* be able to handle it.

You may want to contact Laynes69. He has a similar furnace and an old house (he insulated it well mind you). He might be able to offer more practical real life suggestions.