394 that will not start when hot

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Don't be too quick to blame the coil.
My 394 was really giving me the you know whats. I did have a crank seal issue along with a leak at the plastic intake block, neither major, but none the less rectified along with a new set of Caber rings and a carb clean and kit. The saw was still a pig to start and didn't hold tune well at all. Hot starting just didn't happen. In desperation, I grabbed the plug out of my 3120 and immediately the 394 settled down to a lovely idle and crisp throttle response once tuned. The plug appeared to be giving a good spark, but don't forget that it takes more voltage to create a spark in the combustion chamber when in a 140+ PSI environment. My guess is that the resistor was breaking down in the plug.
Several tanks on and the saw hasn't missed a beat. Cheap to throw a plug in to try anyway.
 
Waiting on the OP to report back with findings.

Sorry I didn't Get a chance to work on the saw yet I am supposed to be getting together with a buddy this week who is having the same problem when I figure out what's going on I will be sure to post and let everyone know thanks everyone for the help and suggestions
 
I recall another member posting that they had the same problem and worked around it by shutting off the saw using the choke. Not a fix, but it came to mind earlier today...
 
I've had problems with my 394's cracking the spark plug porcelain inside and shorting them out when they get hot. Making hot starts impossible. I switched to a colder plug, 7 to 6 and I haven't had any problems so far.

Next time you go cutting keep a brand new plug to try and see if it fixes your issue.
 
I recall another member posting that they had the same problem and worked around it by shutting off the saw using the choke. Not a fix, but it came to mind earlier today...

I did try that and on any other saw it will start hard because its flooded but not the 394, the plug still comes out dry and no start
 
I've had problems with my 394's cracking the spark plug porcelain inside and shorting them out when they get hot. Making hot starts impossible. I switched to a colder plug, 7 to 6 and I haven't had any problems so far.

Next time you go cutting keep a brand new plug to try and see if it fixes your issue.

I am leaning more towards a fuel issue due to the fact that the plug is dry as a bone when I pull it out, If I dip the plug into gas and put it back in quickly it will fire but not always will it stay running
 
the fix

Waiting on the OP to report back with findings.

I ran the 394 today and after backing out the L screw 2 1/2 turns I no longer had problems with starting it when hot usually it started on the first pull. It still starts a little hard after it runs out of gas but it will start after 10 or 12 pulls and I no longer have to pull the plug and dump gas in the cylinder
 
I think you need to look into a carb rebuild if you're that far out on the L. You shouldn't be out over 1.25 turns or so on a stock saw. It could be an air leak also but it sounds like an obstruction in the carb.
 
I think you need to look into a carb rebuild if you're that far out on the L. You shouldn't be out over 1.25 turns or so on a stock saw. It could be an air leak also but it sounds like an obstruction in the carb.

The carb is new, I will have to pressure test the saw and make sure the seals are not leaking
 
I've had problems with my 394's cracking the spark plug porcelain inside and shorting them out when they get hot. Making hot starts impossible. I switched to a colder plug, 7 to 6 and I haven't had any problems so far.

Next time you go cutting keep a brand new plug to try and see if it fixes your issue.

I have an early low top 394 that came with a champion RCJ6Y from the factory. I think the owners manual calls for a RCJ7Y (hotter). Well this winter, the original champion plug caused a no hot start. No problems with a new ngk plug. I also let the saw idle for a minute or two after hard work to rid it of excess heat.
 
This is simple stuff here all in all:

Air/fuel/spark, then continue.

Too much/little air.

Too much/little fuel.

Stator to coil gap too large or small.

Too much air leakage between gaskets and seals....

A leak-down tester is a very handy tool in this regard! Push air in, where does it come out? And there's your problem.......

t3t4
 
My 394 is a bear to start when it is hot too. I use the choke to stop it instead of the on/off switch and it will re-start on one pull. Pull the choke, it stops, push the choke back in. Not ideal by any means but it does work for me. It also seems to do better since I switched to non-ethanol gas.
 
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