Does the 395 boot fit the 394? Steve
394 that will not start when hot
- Thread starter logger170
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Does the 395 boot fit the 394? Steve
Unfortunately ,no. The 394 has a solid plastic mount using two bolts and the 395 uses the common clamp on boot.
Karl Robbers
ArboristSite Operative
Don't be too quick to blame the coil.
My 394 was really giving me the you know whats. I did have a crank seal issue along with a leak at the plastic intake block, neither major, but none the less rectified along with a new set of Caber rings and a carb clean and kit. The saw was still a pig to start and didn't hold tune well at all. Hot starting just didn't happen. In desperation, I grabbed the plug out of my 3120 and immediately the 394 settled down to a lovely idle and crisp throttle response once tuned. The plug appeared to be giving a good spark, but don't forget that it takes more voltage to create a spark in the combustion chamber when in a 140+ PSI environment. My guess is that the resistor was breaking down in the plug.
Several tanks on and the saw hasn't missed a beat. Cheap to throw a plug in to try anyway.
My 394 was really giving me the you know whats. I did have a crank seal issue along with a leak at the plastic intake block, neither major, but none the less rectified along with a new set of Caber rings and a carb clean and kit. The saw was still a pig to start and didn't hold tune well at all. Hot starting just didn't happen. In desperation, I grabbed the plug out of my 3120 and immediately the 394 settled down to a lovely idle and crisp throttle response once tuned. The plug appeared to be giving a good spark, but don't forget that it takes more voltage to create a spark in the combustion chamber when in a 140+ PSI environment. My guess is that the resistor was breaking down in the plug.
Several tanks on and the saw hasn't missed a beat. Cheap to throw a plug in to try anyway.
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
Sorry I didn't Get a chance to work on the saw yet I am supposed to be getting together with a buddy this week who is having the same problem when I figure out what's going on I will be sure to post and let everyone know thanks everyone for the help and suggestions
JakeG
Addicted to ArboristSite
I recall another member posting that they had the same problem and worked around it by shutting off the saw using the choke. Not a fix, but it came to mind earlier today...
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I've had problems with my 394's cracking the spark plug porcelain inside and shorting them out when they get hot. Making hot starts impossible. I switched to a colder plug, 7 to 6 and I haven't had any problems so far.
Next time you go cutting keep a brand new plug to try and see if it fixes your issue.
Next time you go cutting keep a brand new plug to try and see if it fixes your issue.
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
I did try that and on any other saw it will start hard because its flooded but not the 394, the plug still comes out dry and no start
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
I am leaning more towards a fuel issue due to the fact that the plug is dry as a bone when I pull it out, If I dip the plug into gas and put it back in quickly it will fire but not always will it stay running
opcorn:
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
the fix
I ran the 394 today and after backing out the L screw 2 1/2 turns I no longer had problems with starting it when hot usually it started on the first pull. It still starts a little hard after it runs out of gas but it will start after 10 or 12 pulls and I no longer have to pull the plug and dump gas in the cylinder
I ran the 394 today and after backing out the L screw 2 1/2 turns I no longer had problems with starting it when hot usually it started on the first pull. It still starts a little hard after it runs out of gas but it will start after 10 or 12 pulls and I no longer have to pull the plug and dump gas in the cylinder
I think you need to look into a carb rebuild if you're that far out on the L. You shouldn't be out over 1.25 turns or so on a stock saw. It could be an air leak also but it sounds like an obstruction in the carb.
samdweezel05
ArboristSite Guru
This sounds like an air leak or car problem.
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
The carb is new, I will have to pressure test the saw and make sure the seals are not leaking
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
I did have the tach on it and it held around 12,500 rpm. If it had an air leak it would be over reving
logger170
ArboristSite Lurker
I will have to pressure test it this weekend to be safe, its a full time job just trying to get these saws to run right
Did you learn anything?
I am still tinkering with a 394 that is having hot start issues.
albert
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have an early low top 394 that came with a champion RCJ6Y from the factory. I think the owners manual calls for a RCJ7Y (hotter). Well this winter, the original champion plug caused a no hot start. No problems with a new ngk plug. I also let the saw idle for a minute or two after hard work to rid it of excess heat.
This is simple stuff here all in all:
Air/fuel/spark, then continue.
Too much/little air.
Too much/little fuel.
Stator to coil gap too large or small.
Too much air leakage between gaskets and seals....
A leak-down tester is a very handy tool in this regard! Push air in, where does it come out? And there's your problem.......
t3t4
Air/fuel/spark, then continue.
Too much/little air.
Too much/little fuel.
Stator to coil gap too large or small.
Too much air leakage between gaskets and seals....
A leak-down tester is a very handy tool in this regard! Push air in, where does it come out? And there's your problem.......
t3t4
flashhole
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 394 is a bear to start when it is hot too. I use the choke to stop it instead of the on/off switch and it will re-start on one pull. Pull the choke, it stops, push the choke back in. Not ideal by any means but it does work for me. It also seems to do better since I switched to non-ethanol gas.
