dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

[GrassGuerilla]

I generally run Stihl rs chains. Just couldn't quite imagine popping more for a couple loops than I did for the saw. Just a different dynamic.

 

[Chris-PA]

I generally run Stihl rs chains. Just couldn't quite imagine popping more for a couple loops than I did for the saw. Just a different dynamic.

LOL - I can't imagine popping for much with that brand on it. Though their 3-packs of files are a good deal. Just run the chain that came with it. If you wear that out you should know by then if you think it's worth buying a better chain for it.

 

[diggers_dad]

Why can't you just drill through the back opening through the cat all the way but not through the front cover, then widen or drill another hole in the front?

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You can do that, no problem. I wouldn't do that myself or recommend it simply because it results in a difficult time installing a spark screen or no screen at all. The way I suggested allows you to use the stock spark screen (easily removed and cleaned when needed) and it maintains a stock appearance.

All opinions are my own and non-binding. I've seen some bad things from guys running a saw with no screen coming out of the front. Once saw a guy nearly set the woods on fire and also saw a nice piston and cylinder get eaten alive by a piece of something-or-other that got into the cylinder through the hole on a hillbilly muff mod. You can certainly drill a hole completely through the muffler, it just comes with certain limitations.

dd

 

[MasterMech]

Dual-port muffler for the 45 cc! Actually my 52cc china special came with a similar muffler right from the factory, sans screens tho.

 

[diggers_dad]

Thanks DD. had to read that a couple times before it clicked. Must be a stuffed up mess of a muffler. I'm looking forward to poking some holes in it to let some power out. Been reading that the 45cc quakes are running 200+ lbs comp. Are the 38's as high? And what is the stock chain size? I'd like to find another loop or two to go on it? Any cheap chain suggestions? I'm surely not putting $20 chains on a $42.50 saw.

My 38 cc is running the stock bar and chain. The bar is the same mount as a small Poulan and runs a 56dl, 3/8ths lo pro, .050 safety chain. The first few I got had a safety chain with a very high profile safety hump, which I removed in short order as the chain also had regular rakers.

The 45 cc saws I have received are also running a .050, 3/8ths lo pro safety chain but it has 62 drive links and uses a different bar mount pattern (small Husky mount, I think). The safety humps are not nearly as high on it as the ones on the 38 cc saw. Strangely, the 45 has a rim and drum set up which says "3/8" on the side. I tried some full size 3/8ths by hand with the sprocket and it didn't seem to "mesh" well, so I stayed with the lo pro it came with.

I can't give a solid answer on the 325 vs 3/8ths lo pro chain difference yet. I'm still tweaking the 325 setup.

My first 45 cc came with 180+ psi compression and the second one was over 200. Both of those saws had seen no appreciable use. I can attest that they are both still increasing compression as the rings are seating; both of them have gotten noticeably stronger in the cut the more I've used them. I need to take a comp reading again but haven't had time.

If the saws came with a better looking hand guard / brake flag I'd pay $10 more each. I really don't like those goofy looking red things.

dd

 

[diggers_dad]

Its worth repeating - A good sharp chain is THE best mod you can make to any saw. - attributable to any number of smarter guys than me on here.

That statement CANNOT be made often enough.

From this site I've learned to port saws, do muffler mods, advance timing, increase air flow, increase compression, repair all sorts of problems and conditions. Hands down, by far, the single most important and best performance gain to any saw is to have a sharp chain.

dd

 

[B440]

Here are some pics of the 4518 muffler internals. It is divided into two chambers:

This is the outer layer. The catalyst is behind the light-colored sheet metal

This is on the other side of the catalyst, which you can now see. The little box in the middle has another hole on the bottom.

This is the first item the exhaust goes through in the muffler.

Everything was tack-welded together inside. I removed it all and left the muffler shell. I'm not a welder.

Or even a good brazer Had to fix an extra hole I made.

I ran it with just the muffler mod. I didn't even retune the carb. It runs better, but I can't really lean on it in the cut. I have a Single-D carb tool on the way.

BTW, I have heard people saying it's a Redmax design and a GZ-something, but anyone else also notice the similarity to the Japanese Tanaka saws?

I just realized this is my first post. I'm a lurker. You guys got mostly everything covered when it comes to saws, so I just sit back and listen (or read?).

 

[B440]

Someone also asked if another muffler will fit. I found this dual-port on ebay that looks identical to the 4518 muffler:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170784906436?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Chris-PA]

The Tanaka saws have some similarities to the Zenoah/Redmax saws, but the only one that is actually the same is the ECV-5601, which is a G5000 - which is the basis of the 45cc Earthquake design.

 

[naturelover]

Well, my still stock 38cc test mule running 40-1 outboard mix from over the summer.

I needed rid of it.

Still running like a champ. Was gonna noodle the bigger pieces with the 10-10s, but can't get it running. The Quake might have to tackle that also..

 

[diggers_dad]

Here are some pics of the 4518 muffler internals. It is divided into two chambers:

I'm not a welder.

Or even a good brazer Had to fix an extra hole I made.


I ran it with just the muffler mod. I didn't even retune the carb. It runs better, but I can't really lean on it in the cut. I have a Single-D carb tool on the way.

BTW, I have heard people saying it's a Redmax design and a GZ-something, but anyone else also notice the similarity to the Japanese Tanaka saws?

I just realized this is my first post. I'm a lurker. You guys got mostly everything covered when it comes to saws, so I just sit back and listen (or read?).

Welcome to AS. Nice first post. It took me nearly a year to upload a photo here. You're worlds ahead of me there. I might (possibly) be a touch ahead of you on brazing but not much. As long as it doesn't leak exhaust gas where it isn't supposed to it will be fine.

I think the 45 cc is a copy of the G450 Redmax, but I'm not 100% on that.

dd

 

[Butch(OH)]

Why can't you just drill through the back opening through the cat all the way but not through the front cover, then widen or drill another hole in the front?

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That is exactly what we did to ours. Chucked up a 7/16 (I think?) cobalt bit and drilled three hole all the way through. We then drill a few holes in the cover plate. To tell you the truth I am a whole lot more impressed with the 41 than the 45 but neither has more than 10 minutes run time.

 

[7oaks]

That is exactly what we did to ours. Chucked up a 7/16 (I think?) cobalt bit and drilled three hole all the way through. We then drill a few holes in the cover plate. To tell you the truth I am a whole lot more impressed with the 41 than the 45 but neither has more than 10 minutes run time.

Did you have to tune the carb after that?

 

[DexterDay]

Anyone have an extra muffler they want to sell for the 45cc?? Think I buggered mine to much

Hate to buy the dual port listed above and it still have the Cat intact.

Have PayPal and willing to buy

 

[MasterMech]

Anyone have an extra muffler they want to sell for the 45cc?? Think I buggered mine to much

Hate to buy the dual port listed above and it still have the Cat intact.

Have PayPal and willing to buy

Dex, that dual-port is the same as the one on my 52cc chi-com wonder saw. I don't think it has a cat, certainly doesn't have screens, but I think I can still see a baffle in there. It would be better than he stock 45cc muffler but not as good as an empty can with dual ports?

 

[clemsonfor]

The seller told me they have baffles in them, they think that's all. MM why don't you pull ur chicom muff and put on the quake so we can confirm a fit.

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[clemsonfor]

And the 45 is back OUT of stock

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[Butch(OH)]

Did you have to tune the carb after that?

Both the 41 and 45 were seriously fat (rich) as delivered. We didnt fool with either saw much prior to preforming surgery on the mufflers. They were both still very much rich after the muffler mods. Our carburetor "tool" is a 6" piece of 1/4" copper tubing which we tapped onto the needle head to create a slight broach. Both the 41 and 45 were leaned up over 1/2 turn.

I ordered one of the Ebay dual port muffs and will post about it when I get it.

 

[B440]

Both the 41 and 45 were seriously fat (rich) as delivered. We didnt fool with either saw much prior to preforming surgery on the mufflers. They were both still very much rich after the muffler mods. Our carburetor "tool" is a 6" piece of 1/4" copper tubing which we tapped onto the needle head to create a slight broach. Both the 41 and 45 were leaned up over 1/2 turn.

I ordered one of the Ebay dual port muffs and will post about it when I get it.

Nice. I was thinking about getting one of those mufflers. You beat me to it. It would be awesome if you could buy the saw, buy the double port muffler, bolt it on and be good to go. A slight carb adjustment would be ok too I guess.

 

[Softdraw]

My 38 cc is running the stock bar and chain. The bar is the same mount as a small Poulan and runs a 56dl, 3/8ths lo pro, .050 safety chain. The first few I got had a safety chain with a very high profile safety hump, which I removed in short order as the chain also had regular rakers.

The 45 cc saws I have received are also running a .050, 3/8ths lo pro safety chain but it has 62 drive links and uses a different bar mount pattern (small Husky mount, I think). The safety humps are not nearly as high on it as the ones on the 38 cc saw. Strangely, the 45 has a rim and drum set up which says "3/8" on the side. I tried some full size 3/8ths by hand with the sprocket and it didn't seem to "mesh" well, so I stayed with the lo pro it came with.

I can't give a solid answer on the 325 vs 3/8ths lo pro chain difference yet. I'm still tweaking the 325 setup.

My first 45 cc came with 180+ psi compression and the second one was over 200. Both of those saws had seen no appreciable use. I can attest that they are both still increasing compression as the rings are seating; both of them have gotten noticeably stronger in the cut the more I've used them. I need to take a comp reading again but haven't had time.

If the saws came with a better looking hand guard / brake flag I'd pay $10 more each. I really don't like those goofy looking red things.

dd

Hello--can you or anyone else who has modified their Earthquake cs4518 offer a beefier bar and chain for the same model? I see lots of information about boosting the saw's performance but little to nothing about a better bar or chain.

Thank you.