What Do I Need? Bucking my first log load.

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isipwater

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I got my very first load of logs delivered to my house for firewood. In getting read to buck the logs, I want to make sure I have all the gear I should have. I have about 7 cords to buck and split.

Here is what is on my list

Chaps - what style and type work best? Any brands work best?

Boots - Do I really need actual chainsaw boot or will regular good hiking boots work?

Peavy or cant hook - Any brands work best?

Log stand - Do I need this so I don't cut into the dirt?

Plastic Wedges - how many and what sizes do I need bucking? Any brands work best?

Helmet with face and ear protection

Chainsaw protective gloves

Am I missing anything else?
 
I use chaps, eye protection (glasses), a pinch bar, a timber jack and a tape measure and my kids sidewalk chalk to mark my rounds at 14-15". I also have a couple of hooks with handles to handle the rounds.
 
chainsaw ? :) theres one in every crowd.
I got my very first load of logs delivered to my house for firewood. In getting read to buck the logs, I want to make sure I have all the gear I should have. I have about 7 cords to buck and split.

Here is what is on my list

Chaps - what style and type work best? Any brands work best? just get good ones.

Boots - Do I really need actual chainsaw boot or will regular good hiking boots work? any good steel toe boot should work.

Peavy or cant hook - Any brands work best?

Log stand - Do I need this so I don't cut into the dirt? don't cut into dirt.

Plastic Wedges - how many and what sizes do I need bucking? Any brands work best? i use stihl plastic wedges get a couple of each size.

Helmet with face and ear protection . just get a good one that fits and feel good.

Chainsaw protective gloves anything from cotton to leather should work.

Am I missing anything else?
log splitter/ maul/ fiskars
 
I use chaps, eye protection (glasses), a pinch bar, a timber jack and a tape measure and my kids sidewalk chalk to mark my rounds at 14-15". I also have a couple of hooks with handles to handle the rounds.
what type of chaps do you use? I assume a pinch bar is for getting pinched bar un-stuck? What diameter can your hooks hold?
 
Good starter list. I always wear gloves and ear protection. For chaps I wear Labonville. For boots, steel toe should be fine. Peavey, cant hook, log stand and plastic wedges -optional, but may come in handy. +1 on the safety glasses and sidewalk chalk. Have fun and be safe.
 
what type of chaps do you use? I assume a pinch bar is for getting pinched bar un-stuck? What diameter can your hooks hold?
Labonville and a pinch bar is a steel bar about 5 feet long that is round at top than about three quarters down it tapers to about 11/2 x11/2 inch square and then to a wedge, it is used for moving logs around.
image.jpg
 
Thats alot of money on safety gear, you could easily forgo most of that, even the chaps, wear two pairs of jeans...
 
I got my very first load of logs delivered to my house for firewood. In getting read to buck the logs, I want to make sure I have all the gear I should have. I have about 7 cords to buck and split.

Here is what is on my list

Chaps - what style and type work best? Any brands work best? If you wear them, you wont find out the hard way. Any rated as chainsaw will do as well as the next.

Boots - Do I really need actual chainsaw boot or will regular good hiking boots work? Hiking indicates more breathable nylon, work boots indicate more leather- your choice. I wear steel shank and toe made for stihl by lawngrips- i need the grip in the mud I make with my machine. I suggest heavy, thick, with large lug pattern sole. Its just a couple hours at a time to wear heavy stuff.

Peavy or cant hook - Any brands work best? C'Mon now......

Log stand - Do I need this so I don't cut into the dirt? if you're going to cut in the dirt, i guess you oughta, but it aint the end of the fricken world if your saw dips the ground- just don;t make a habit out of it. What? You never made six cuts mostly through- and then rotated a quarter?

Plastic Wedges - how many and what sizes do I need bucking? Any brands work best? Brands- Reallllll-y

Helmet with face and ear protection I dont see you working overhead right this minute, but ear muffs for sure- your eyewear can then vary per conditions, but also a must.

Chainsaw protective gloves, I dont wear cut proof gloves, but I m least careless with the stuff closest to the saw. ( I do wear gloves handling splits though.)

Am I missing anything else?

Hand truck.

And- What else you got? Where what who when and how. Pics or it never happened, yada yada yada.
 
Hand truck.

And- What else you got? Where what who when and how. Pics or it never happened, yada yada yada.
Alright, thank you. You sounds surprised at some of my questions. First perosn in my family to ever have a chainsaw. I have no idea what I am getting myself into.
 
Kind of surprised.... I made bold italics answering your Q's.

Tells us more of your circumstances and get better answers.

Couple things. I regard safety very highly. My body came equipped with pairs, excpet for the parts shipped- one, each. I take reasonable risk with proper precautions. I suggest you do too.

Which wedge works best? Really?

Being prepared is the best you can do for success. Having the right tool for the job is more a function of your knowledge, skills and abilities, than the BRAND,. You can cut your leg off just as well and completely with a Wild Thing from Home Cheapo as you can with a Husky 395 TurboModified from Site SPonsoR....

You know where you are- we dont'. If you get an offer for help, don;t be afraid to take it.
 
You'lll likely find that a cant hook is best for rolling logs. It just doesn't have the pointy tip of a peavy, that can be stuck in the ground to keep it upright. See Bailey's for felling/bucking wedges; couple each of 5" and 8" should prevent binding.

For firewooding I've found "Atlas Fit" gloves to give the best grip and durability. They're knit, with latex-coated palms, very good grip and durability. They also make a "Thermal" version for colder weather. By the dozen from Amazon, they're a couple bucks/pair.

If you can't properly sharpen a chainsaw, you want to learn now. IMO, Granberg "File-N-Joint" file guide is the way to go. A stroke or two per cutter every other fill-up is all it takes. Sharp chain is safe chain. Less reaction force on snagging small stuff. Rocks and junk suck.

By all means get instruction, of find a safe sawyer who'll let you watch, and NOT learn the hard way.
 
Chaps - what style and type work best? Any brands work best?

Any brand of chaps will be worth their money and could save your life/leg. If you need some in a pinch go to Lowes or Tractor Supply, they sell half wrap chaps that buckle behind the leg.

Boots - Do I really need actual chainsaw boot or will regular good hiking boots work?

At a minimum wear steel toe boots. If you can afford it, buy some Husqvarna chainsaw boots (should be about the same as a new pair of good name brand steel toe anyways, ~$100) Keep in mind, if you hit the steel cap on your boot your toes will be well protected but that saw is going to slide off and likely go into the upper part of your foot or shin. The reason I tell you this is to stress that steel toe boots are only good for your toes and dont protect your ankle or shin where as Husqvarna boots do...

Peavy or cant hook - Any brands work best?

IDK, dont use any, dont need one.

Log stand - Do I need this so I don't cut into the dirt?

Dont need or use any but not a bad idea if you cant sharpen a saw, it'll help keep your chain out of the dirt.

Plastic Wedges - how many and what sizes do I need bucking? Any brands work best?

Any kind, bright orange for visibility.

Helmet with face and ear protection

Face shields are nice on helmets but you will still need some safety glasses. If you dont want to invest in the helmet then get a good pair of glasses that wrap you face (Lowes/Home Depot). Inner ear plugs work the best for noise reduction and are cheap. Buy the tapered plugs if you do, they are more comfortable.

Chainsaw protective gloves

Not sure they make chainsaw gloves specifically. I'd recommend a pair of leather insulated gloved and a pair of non insulated. Your hands will stay suprisingly warm without the insulated gloves...

That pretty much covers what you need besides gas/oil and a splitting maul and motivation.

What saw and chain are you using? You might want to condiser some round chain as it's more foregiving if you get into the dirt and is easier to sharpen.

Id hate you refer you to youtube for some basic cutting lessons as there are a lot of bad practices but if you look around there you can find some professionals giving good beginer advice.
 
Watch the tip of the bar, don't let it hit another log, this is how kickback happens. Stand to the side, head not in the same plane as the bar.

Roll the logs onto a lot of smaller pieces sitting sideways to the log. If you space them correctly, and get the log on there right, every cut will be straight down the middle of the support chunks and you won't get pinched at all. You'll have to replace those support chunks once in awhile, meh..they burn. Stick a chunk or three against the log in between the cut areas to keep the log from rolling towards you, it can happen with the chain pulling towards you. Not all the time, but it will happen especially when you get down to the last couple of cuts.

Your plastic wedges are still useful, I would imagine with delivered logs they won't be huge, so the next size over those 4 inch stubbies, I think it is six or eight inches. Stick it in and whack it once past half way through..Although after a few cuts you might find you really don't need them. Narrower diameter logs well supported will cut fine as is. I have found I don't need them much until the logs hit 20 inches or larger and are just laying on the ground..although I sincerely try to get chunks under my logs in the woods. I sledge hammer them underneath after cutting some wood chunks with a wedge shaped taper.

I don't own chaps, I bought the full trousers instead. When I am cutting I am cutting, gonna wear pants anyway, they were about the same cost as the chaps and are real comfortable and have pockets, and no werido straps to deal with or get caught in brush, I wear chainsaw boots and the helmet/face shield/muff combo. All my stuff is husky because they are the best dealer around here and carry pro equipment. Cost is quite good, too.

I gear up to work, no exceptions ever. I cut for decades with out all that stuff, figured I had pushed my luck far enough..and now I dig it! Getting suited up is psych for me, I get in the groove better and faster.
 
Like others have stated, it would be in your best interest to take a safety course and learn the correct way to use a chainsaw. One slip up with a chainsaw and all your good intentions are down the drain. Those logs aren't going any where.
 
... I gear up to work, no exceptions ever. I cut for decades with out all that stuff, figured I had pushed my luck far enough..and now I dig it! Getting suited up is psych for me, I get in the groove better and faster.

I've seen you say this in numerous threads Zogger and it makes me thing every time I read it...

I wear safety glasses and ear plugs and that's about it in the safety arena. I know I should obtain the rest, but like many, I just haven't...

Maybe I'll check out Amazon tonight and run around town this weekend looking things over. Hopefully, I'll still feel the same way by the weekend.

Keep preachin' Zogger and thank you!
 

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