661 Oil Test 32:1 vs 40:1 vs 50:1 ?

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I bought mine about 1979 new. It is all green, black plastic grill in the center of the top housing above the flywheel, plastic carb, steel deck, called the "utility" model as I recall. The absolute best engine I have ever owned. I have done nothing but clean the muffler once in all this time and it has gone places no push mower should ever go. I have replaced the deck and wheels though. Can you tell me the correct name for it and where to find parts? I have a pin hole in the primer bulb. Oh, and the only oil I have ever used in it is Lawn Boy 32:1. I may soon change to the same mix I use in all my other 2-strokes, currently Maxima K2 32:1. One more thing, until a year ago my Lawn Boy has always ran fine on crap, stale, pump gas with ethanol and no failed rubber and plastic parts. Now I mix with non ethanol gas and it possibly runs a little better. I wonder why these high dollar chainsaw fuel lines and carbs drop like flies when fed ethanol.
http://tewarehouse.com/7-02310
 
has anyone tried the royal purple oil? they make a premix one i used a quart of a couple weeks ago but i was to in the work to do any inspections before i switched back to lucas. i don't think the saws noticed a difference though :D might have to pick up another bottle next time i'm in the city.
royal purple is TCW3 I wouldn't dare in a aircooled engine except my lawn boy it calls for the stuff.
 
Here is an oil test I find interesting. I was thinking of trying some Legend oil when I finish with this 5 gallons of Baileys synthetic.
I have used some Lucas oil because it was free. Forest Lucas is a local guy here and I got some from his son in law.

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-286148.html

http://www.snowest.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-286148.html
I have used Legend in sleds. It smells just like Klotz. The marketing of this oil is complete bs, but despite that it's an ok product.
 
royal purple is TCW3 I wouldn't dare in a aircooled engine except my lawn boy it calls for the stuff.

i see what you mean now. it appears their TCW3 oil was just renamed. says safe to use in chainsaws though. i did and the saw felt like it had the same power as stihl ultra :D didn't stink either. down right acceptable regardless of lubrication properties LOL i'm gonna stick with lucas though. royal purple be for rich people.

high-performance-2-cycle-motor-oil.png

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/hp-2c-2-cycle-engine-oil/
 
I heard Lucas looks dry even at 32:1....it was on AS so it must be true!!
I really liked the Lucas full synthetic.... it ran just fine in my saws with no stink or smoke.... price is very good too. Still have about 3/4 of a gallon left and intend to use it up once my K2 is gone.:rock:
 
I bought mine about 1979 new. It is all green, black plastic grill in the center of the top housing above the flywheel, plastic carb, steel deck, called the "utility" model as I recall. The absolute best engine I have ever owned. I have done nothing but clean the muffler once in all this time and it has gone places no push mower should ever go. I have replaced the deck and wheels though. Can you tell me the correct name for it and where to find parts? I have a pin hole in the primer bulb. Oh, and the only oil I have ever used in it is Lawn Boy 32:1. I may soon change to the same mix I use in all my other 2-strokes, currently Maxima K2 32:1. One more thing, until a year ago my Lawn Boy has always ran fine on crap, stale, pump gas with ethanol and no failed rubber and plastic parts. Now I mix with non ethanol gas and it possibly runs a little better. I wonder why these high dollar chainsaw fuel lines and carbs drop like flies when fed ethanol.

The one place I've had good luck is this fellow for parts http://www.milfordpower.com/Lawn-Boy-O-E-M-Replacement-Parts-s/315.htm and any Toro dealer that's been around for a while will usually have stuff or be able to order for you , ebay too as a last resort and always keep an eye at yard sales or out back in the junk pile at dealers .
Nothing wrong with 32:1 but I run mine at 40:1 and the exhaust port holes stay clean . That ethanol is bad stuff in those plastic carbs . Now is yours all plastic or just the bowel ? I don't recall any plastic carbs till the F series came out . The other thing you should change at some point are the crank seals if you've never done it . You'll notice it getting hard to start if they are starting to go . Not as critical so they damage the engine like as saw , these engines are only running about 3500 RPM .
 
To tell you the truth, you would have to look through every last chemical that is in the additive/oil and all the components in that particular blend of gasoline. Would be very time consuming trying to verify all that info. From working in a refinery/refineries and being an Industrial firefighter/hazmat tech for more than 20 years, I can honestly tell you none of it is GOOD for you. Just the gasoline alone when you are filling up the fuel can..... Benzine is one of the worst chemicals that you can be exposed to, yet we do it all the time when filling up the car.... that sweet smell in the air is one of the worst carcinogens known. Our allowable time weighted average for exposure over an 8 hour work period usd to be 1 ppm ( Part per million). I think it has been changed to "0" now. Not good stuff.
The other one I see on here is people using leaded gasoline. I know its good stuff , but oh boy.... using that in an area with restricted ventilation for long periods of time.....It sounds corny, but I am actually concerned for the people using it - the amount of lead they are breathing in is a serious risk to their health. :(
In the end when it comes down to chemicals and acute and chronic health risks and potential for damage, dosage is the most important factor ( Mg/Kg) and then exposure over time. Some chemicals produce acute effects with no chronic issues, some no acute issues but with serious chronic potential ( Mutagens, carcinogens) like benzene.
The most practical way to reduce risk from the exhaust is through engineering controls ( Ventilation , isolation, wind at your back...L0l) or secondarily, PPE. I don't foresee any of you using a half face respirator when using a chainsaw. The gist of it is , think about what you are doing before you start and try to arrange how you are working when possible to reduce the amount of exposure to the exhaust while working with a chainsaw..... trying to isolate any one additive or chemical is pretty much a moot point.... all of the exhaust is harmful to your body in one shape or form. Take care of yourselves guys, your body will thank you. ( As a side not, I think on average refinery workers live ten years shorter than the average for all fields of work) We have had 7 fatalities in the refinery I work in since I have been there over 21 years. As a firefighter, seeing the after effects up close of what happens to your co-workers when things go really bad is an eye opener on the possible effects of working in an industrial environment. I try to protect myself from short and long term risks as much as possible on an everyday basis..... sometimes its just a little prethought that makes the difference, Mark.
You mentioned engineering controls in reducing risk, as this is an oil thread where some are running 20:1 which isn't engineering a control risk but going in the exact opposite direction to what is required to reduce the risk.
Thansk
 
That's a ashless marine oil not suitable for saw use.

well it says suitable for chainsaw so i ran it like any other. did i ruin my life not running m800. heck no! like i said, it's for rich people and i was feeling rich that day. just so you know too. the 562 runs great with that oil. you should try it :D
 
well it says suitable for chainsaw so i ran it like any other. did i ruin my life not running m800. heck no! like i said, it's for rich people and i was feeling rich that day. just so you know too. the 562 runs great with that oil. you should try it :D
Despite what they say, it's not suitable for a chainsaw. No OPE OEM reccomends or sells an ashless oil, as they are not optimal for air cooled engine.
 

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