How to properly use wedges...

[Foghorn]

I've always used a rope when ever I wanted to make sure a tree fell the way I wanted it to. After reading sawinredneck's "why wedges rock" I was wondering if I could get some advise on how and when to properly use wedges both with felling and bucking :blush:.

Thanks!

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Im a super noob at wedges, but when I employ them, I start them in the back cut as soon as they will fit to avoid the the sit sitting back on the saw. Most times Ill finish my back cut, set my saw a safe distance away and then drive the wedges until the tree falls. Im not sure if this is reccommended practice or not, but I don't do this ???? for a living so I'd rather throw a 20 dollar axe on the ground and run than my 400 dollar saw and run.

I also look for some advice on using wedges properly.

And I would say you would insert a wedge in the top of your cuts during bucking, so the cut doesn't fall closed and pinch your bar as you buck through the log.

 

[IchWarriorMkII]

Yes allow me to break out my 10.5" wedge and put on a demonstration

 

[boatermark]

Would love to talk more about the picture, but I'll behave.

OK, using wedges to fell a tree. I think it's good to look at the entire felling process, and using wedges are just an important part of that.

Felling Plan:
- Look at any hazards around the tree to be felled. Dead branches hanging above, nearby hung up trees, etc.
- Check the lean of the tree. Identify the good side and bad side if any. How is the tree's weight distributed, wind load, snow load, etc.
- Choose the path you want the tree to fall and pick a target.
- Indentify your flight path and make sure it is clear.
- Plan hinge thickness and length.
- Plan the back cut.

Action:
- Cut the proper notch keeping the target in mind. Remember, the notch is going to set the hinge length
- Plunge cut, and set the hinge thickness.
- Back cut and set wedges as soon as possible. Finish back cut leaving a small piece uncut for the trigger.
- Cut trigger and safely flee.
- If the tree doesn't start falling after the trigger is cut, then start pounding the wedge(s) further in, tree starts falling, flee...

Now, as I was taught, the direction the tree falls is controlled by the hinge. Since a proper sized hinge is really important, setting the hinge dimensions while the tree is standing is important. Once the hinge dimensions are set, and you start back cutting, wedges may be placed in the back cut as soon as there is space to do so. Leaving the trigger until last keeps the tree from sitting back on your saw, and allows you to spend less time at the base of the tree when it starts falling.

Starting a back cut from the outside of the tree, cutting towards the hinge is not as safe. In this case, the hinge dimensions are not set until you are almost done cutting, meaning you may still be cutting while the tree is falling opposed to fleeing. This is called chasing the hinge. This method may also be prone to causing a barber chair.

Back to the wedges, they're going to help convince the tree to go in the direction you want it to fall. This makes it easier as well as adding insurance. Wedges are so effective, they can actually help lift a tree and fell it against its lean if you really need to fell the tree in the opposite direction. Also, because the hinge controlls where the tree falls, the wedges may be placed anywhere there is space in the back cut (the wedge isn't controlling the direction...again the hinge is)

Ugg, I am rambling. Not enough coffee...

 

[1wildthing]

That is how you would use a wedge to do a bore cut. However, most people (at least around here) use a conventional cut. Make the notch, start your backcut, and as soon as there is open kerf behind the bar, insert wedge. Continue backcut until hinge is properly formed, and pound in wedge. When tree starts to fall, back up. Recover wedges, buck tree, repeat process until no trees remain.

 

[Hard Knocks]

Well said boatermark!

 

[boatermark]

Well said boatermark!

Thanks! Hope I was making some sense...

 

[smokechase II]

trivial pursuit

boatermark
Perhaps instead of; "the direction the tree falls is controlled by the hinge." it should read; If everything is done correctly, the direction a tree falls is controlled primarily by the hinge.

Since we are in a thread about wedging, it would be nice to show wedges some respect and mention that there are instances where wedges control where a tree falls more than other factors such as hinge, notch size, wind, side leans, strength of wood etc.

It also should be stated on this thread that there are a few disadvantages to wedges:
1) For the arborist pro, they are not same level of guarantee that wedges working with a rope or cable are.
2) Pounding wedges introduces a vibration into trees/snags that could loosen hazards above. Driving wedges is a more dangerous vibration than that of a running chain saw. So caution when wedging and you have identified imminent hazards above. Look up with each wedge strike!
3) Driving wedges too hard with an overly thick hinge/too shallow a face is one of the many sponsors of barber chair events.
4) Wedging is not always advisable in rotten wood. A hinge may not hold if the forces being generated from above exceed the strength of the hinge and a wedge may just sink into softer or rotten wood, providing no lift. Often in these trees/snags, dropping with the lean is the only option.

A couple other thoughts on wedge use:
You'll encounter the least resistance to lifting a tree by wedging from the very back of the back-cut. You'll get the largest dimensional lift by wedging near the hinge. But try to avoid the hinge area hard pounding.

Also not mentioned on this thread is a simple but neat trick of making the back cut first, (this on trees with moderate off-leans or less), placing wedge(s) snug and then cutting the face. This also sets the hinge precisely and then you drive the tree over.

There are some tricks that can be done with center boring the tree in the direction of the fall to allow the use of longer wedges on some smaller diameter timber.

All the Best

 

[tek9tim]

- Plunge cut, and set the hinge thickness.
- Back cut and set wedges as soon as possible. Finish back cut leaving a small piece uncut for the trigger.
- Cut trigger and safely flee.
- If the tree doesn't start falling after the trigger is cut, then start pounding the wedge(s) further in, tree starts falling, flee...

Now, as I was taught, the direction the tree falls is controlled by the hinge. Since a proper sized hinge is really important, setting the hinge dimensions while the tree is standing is important. Once the hinge dimensions are set, and you start back cutting, wedges may be placed in the back cut as soon as there is space to do so. Leaving the trigger until last keeps the tree from sitting back on your saw, and allows you to spend less time at the base of the tree when it starts falling.

Starting a back cut from the outside of the tree, cutting towards the hinge is not as safe. In this case, the hinge dimensions are not set until you are almost done cutting, meaning you may still be cutting while the tree is falling opposed to fleeing. This is called chasing the hinge. This method may also be prone to causing a barber chair.

Sounds like you went through either MEMIC, Game of Logging, or Arbormaster. All that's fine and dandy in hardwoods. :deadhorse: One might want to research more if he were working out west, though. Out here, unless the tree's a heavy leaner, a bore in backcut's a waste of time.

 

[clearance]

Starting a back cut from the outside of the tree, cutting towards the hinge is not as safe. In this case, the hinge dimensions are not set until you are almost done cutting, meaning you may still be cutting while the tree is falling opposed to fleeing. This is called chasing the hinge. This method may also be prone to causing a barber chair.

This is exactly how I have cut almost every tree I have ever felled. Sometimes on small wood where there is no room for a wedge I put in the backcut first. If the tree is going to chair, you probably don't need wedges. Each to his own, all the fallers I have ever met use this method. Just don't be cutting off your holding wood, pay attention. I have never used the bore method (not this type of boring anyways), doesn't the tree "pop" as it falls, tearing out wood, devaluing the butt log?

 

[1wildthing]

This is exactly how I have cut almost every tree I have ever felled. Sometimes on small wood where there is no room for a wedge I put in the backcut first. If the tree is going to chair, you probably don't need wedges. Each to his own, all the fallers I have ever met use this method. Just don't be cutting off your holding wood, pay attention. I have never used the bore method (not this type of boring anyways), doesn't the tree "pop" as it falls, tearing out wood, devaluing the butt log?

I've seen a couple people post about doing the backcut first. How do you keep from pinching your bar when cutting the notch? Or do you only do this with a back lean?

 

[t_andersen]

Boatermark, thanks for a good post. Any chance that you could make a few sketches, scan/photo them, and post them here?

 

[clearance]

I've seen a couple people post about doing the backcut first. How do you keep from pinching your bar when cutting the notch? Or do you only do this with a back lean?

If the tree is going to pinch your bar in the undercut (notch) then you don't need to wedge it, it will go on its own. I use it in straight up and down trees and trees leaning back or sideways. When I place the wedge I don't hammer on it, I just push it in by hand. Then I make my undercut and fall it. You have to be real carefull doing this, it is easy to cut off the holding wood.

 

[1wildthing]

If the tree is going to pinch your bar in the undercut (notch) then you don't need to wedge it, it will go on its own. I use it in straight up and down trees and trees leaning back or sideways. When I place the wedge I don't hammer on it, I just push it in by hand. Then I make my undercut and fall it. You have to be real carefull doing this, it is easy to cut off the holding wood.

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation. Sounds like this would be useful sometimes. I usually just pull stuff like that, but think I will give it a try this way. It would save time over hooking cables.

 

[redprospector]

I tend to agree with SmokechaseII, and Tek9tim. There are situations where all of the methods mentioned are usefull, but none are the only way.
I don't know anything about what they teach in the mentioned schools. I went to the school of hard knocks, and survived.

Each tree is an individual, and requires individual attention. Sometimes (just like people) trees in a given area will react mostly the same, but if you don't evaluate them individually, you may find one that will jump up & slap you for treating it like the rest.

Andy

 

[woodfarmer]

the majority of the trees i drop i use a wedge after the back cut has been started so as not to pinch my bar should the tree sit back, occasionally after notch and back cut, the tree is still standing so i will drive the wedge to get it started on its way down. the ones i really hate are after the wedge is driven in the tree is still standing there looking at me and not moving. because i cut on our property and usually alone, i just have to leave it until the next wind comes up and takes it down.

 

[Foghorn]

Thanks for the info. As mentioned above, pictures/sketches would be helpful if possible...

Foghorn

 

[Logjam]

Use of wedges in this senerio

Sorry Foghorn, don't want to side track your thread.

But here goes.

I have a dead standing 26" dia 60' tall red oak that needs to fall
I am sure that the center is rotten. All the limbs are intact but are missing bark.
I'm seriuosly nervous about falling this tree. But if successful lot's of fire wood!
Any advise on the type of cutting and wedgeing to drop this thing?
thanks,:help:

 

[woodfarmer]

i fall a lot of trees similar to this as i would any live tree, it may be a good idea to have a spoter to watch for falling branches, which is your biggest concern with standing dead trees in my opinion and always wear your hard hat. i know its saved my mellon on a few occasions

 

[Logjam]

i fall a lot of trees similar to this as i would any live tree, it may be a good idea to have a spoter to watch for falling branches, which is your biggest concern with standing dead trees in my opinion and always wear your hard hat. i know its saved my mellon on a few occasions

I would 100% agree. And will do just that.
However, the concern is a rotten core in this big diameter.
Curiuos on what method to cutting this thing down
Any ideas?