Can someone help with some idea or two about how to undo a clutch that seems welded on the shaft on my Homelite 925? The usual whacking and WD40 don't seem to work. That clutch has been screwed on there for the last 30 years yet I need to change the seals so must come off.
Undoing a stubborn clutch
- Thread starter Marc1
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Engineeringnerd
ArboristSite Operative
If you don't get any better suggestions, you may try heating the shaft with a propane torch for about 10 seconds as a last resort.
Usually it does the trick by expanding the outside metal more than the inside. I don't know that saw, so I hate to tell you it's risk free. always a chance of damaging plastic or o-rings, if such an old saw even has such unmanly materials.
Usually it does the trick by expanding the outside metal more than the inside. I don't know that saw, so I hate to tell you it's risk free. always a chance of damaging plastic or o-rings, if such an old saw even has such unmanly materials.
minkota1
ArboristSite Operative
are you turning clockwise?
Indiana John
ArboristSite Operative
I use my 3/8" impact. Does it everytime for me! 
Indiana John
ArboristSite Operative
I have an old junk socket that I ground down to two pins to fit most of my smaller saws clutches. I also found out that the tool I have in my box for screwing brake caliper pistons back into the caliper on the ones with the parking brake will also work for many clutches. It's a cube-shaped tool with different spaced pins on each of the four sides, and each side has an opening in the center for a 3/8" ratchet. I got mine at Advance Auto for a few bucks.
HTH
HTH
Engineeringnerd
ArboristSite Operative
I heartily agree with Indiana on the impact socket. They are amazing tools if you have access to one. Unfortunately, I don't.
habanero
ArboristSite Guru
I use a nice, heavy piece of flat bar stock with two holes drilled in it the same width apart as the screw holes on the clutch (for the flat plate). Then I just bolt the bar stock to the clutch-being sure to get it good and tight. I have another homemade tool for pulling flywheels, so I put that on the flywheel end and lock it in the vise. Then it is just a matter of using the bar stock on the clutch to turn it loose. The bar stock is about 16" long, and I've never had one that I couldn't get loose just with it. If you needed, you could throw a pipe on the end for more leverage.
lesorubcheek
Addicted to ArboristSite
Similar to habanero's setup, I have a piece of flat iron with holes drilled to attach bolts to the clutch spider. I welded a 5/8" nut in the center and use a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 5/8" socket. If its stubborn, stick a 3 ft. pipe over a breaker bar. I always use the "starter rope through the sparkplug hole" trick for preventing the crank from rotating. I noticed a factory Homelite clutch tool went for like $50 plus yesterday on ebay. You can definitely make a very nice tool for much less that this that will last forever.
Dan
Dan
