So what's the rule of thumb on drying time for milled lumber before you start finishing work on it (sanding / staining), 1 year per inch if stored in a shed?
Well I popped my cherry today after work on a small 48" × 20" bitternut hickory log, saw kinda bogged down due to not clearing chips fast enough, i had to hold it back, it wanted to run forward pretty hard....Do they make a full skip ripping chain and would you guys recommend it?
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Are you running ripping chain on it now? That saw should be able to handle full comp chain it the teeth are filled and rakers set. I run full comp .404 filled at 10 degrees on my 075 and have never had an issue.
Please refer to the Carlton Filing Specifications. Note the recommended side plate angle and depth gauge height. Basically reiterating what others have said but it couldn't hurt.View attachment 499924
Yes its a full comp NIB ripping blade .404 / .063, maybe the chips were not clearing because the wood was so wet? Thanks for looking View attachment 499923
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I'm a bit confused in that you say the saw wants to "run forward" but that it also "bogs down" so you had to hold it back.
Well.....I guess I mean the saw blade is biting into the wood so aggressively that its "pulling" the saw down the log / cutting too quickly, resulting in sawdust not being cleared quick enough and the saw bogs down, so...I have to actually hold the saw back so the chain can clear the chips properly, I don't need to push on the mill handle at all, I actually hold it back a bit.
Yes, sorry I should have mentioned it takes about 2 or 3 seconds to bog down.Do you mean it pulled the saw into the log quickly AND THEN it bogged down?
Ah ha - that makes sense.Yes, sorry I should have mentioned it takes about 2 or 3 seconds to bog down.
Good luck.Going to mill a slightly narrower log tomorrow, will see how it goes...
Ah. I begin to understand. Milling makes obvious the inefficiency in the chain. What about the slight beak forming in the one picture? Is that just the way the picture looks or is this intentionally done?Manufactures settings are established
a) as a one size fits all - it would be too difficult and confusing for the average Joe to specify different settings for bar length, hardness, saw power, etc
b) to minimize kickback - a non-issue for Alaskan mills where the bar is held by the mill at both ends
Manufactures settings are just a starting point for CSM'ing and operators should try to understand how chains work and then vary things from there. The Carlton raker setting tool (File-O-Plate) is one of the better ones but like most raker setting gauges, it too is on the conservative side.
To optimise cutting speed and get the saw to self feed the side and top plate angles and raker depths (and shapes) need to be optimised. When buckling this is less of an issue because saw loads are not as high or as long , but when CSMing loads are constantly high for long periods, so every little advantage is worth scavenging. It makes milling easier and takes load off the powerhead,
Ah. I begin to understand. Milling makes obvious the inefficiency in the chain. What about the slight beak forming in the one picture? Is that just the way the picture looks or is this intentionally done?
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