562xp warm start trouble, air purge stops working for a while

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Built in obsolescence.

Sure a saw should run a long time on 50:1 The 562 has no doubt had it's problems, but it's always going to be amplified on the internet.

Apologies to the OP here if I have highjacked this thread at all.

I note your amplification on the Internet idea Andyshine ... FWIW - I LOVE my friggin 562 and will try a little harder to keep a low tone until mine gets sorted out - hopefully soon.
 
Apologies to the OP here if I have highjacked this thread at all.

I note your amplification on the Internet idea Andyshine ... FWIW - I LOVE my friggin 562 and will try a little harder to keep a low tone until mine gets sorted out - hopefully soon.

It's all good, just a shame these saws have had such a rough start. If all 562's run like mine has so far, it would change how we look at the different cc classes, because man do they run strong for 60cc!!
 
Has the original poster had any luck getting his 562 fixed ?
My 562 was having similar hard start when hot issues but I cut down a big 2 foot+ Diameter spruce with it yesterday, ran 2 tanks through it and it ran and started perfect, but it never got very hot so that's probably why no hard start issues.
 
Well I did some hard cutting a couple days ago and sure enough after my 562 gets hot it will take 20-30 pulls to get it running again, by that time I'm to wore out to work. Stuck my finger in the tank to find out how hot the gas was yes it was pretty warm but nowhere near boiling. I never noticed it before but yes it seems about like you described the primer bulb presses to easy and doesn't seem to pump much gas when hot, then when it finally starts on fast idle as soon as I try to rev it up it quits running, very frustrating. Mine still has almost 3 years of warranty left so one of these days I will be taking it back to my dealer and see if they can fix it, as long as the saw doesn't get worked hard it starts fine.
I've got a 562XP which unfortunately doesn't have a warranty. It starts cold beautifully, it restarts hot just fine (slide up to choke on, slide back down to fast idle engaged). After cutting for a while it gets more and more likely that it won't restart, particularly if left for 10 minutes or so, and almost definitely won't start if I leave it for 20 minutes. Once I see that I have a problem, if I leave it alone for a while (never timed it) it comes good again, so it seems to get into some kind of temperature related state. Also, I've not sat down with a stop watch (yet), so my times may be a bit off.

Things that may be relevant..

When it's in this state the air purge bulb doesn't "work", pushing in feels too easy and it never pulls fuel through. I can tell when it's good to go again because I'll come back and the bulb will suddenly be almost completely full and it'll start just fine (though it does idle a bit funny after these restarts, sometimes dies but starts right back up again, but after the first cut it's back to normal).

Oh, the important bit, when it's in this state I can't seem to get it started at all. Sometimes I can get a little rumble for a few seconds but usually nothing.

When you open the fuel cap air there's some positive pressure in the tank. Opening & closing the tank doesn't change anything (I've never had first hand experience with vapour lock, but it seemed like it was worth a test). The weather here's around 15-25C, nothing extreme.

The carburettor is an EL46, no hesitation off idle issues, and from a cold start it's fantastic. Sometimes after a warm restart (or one that's just on the edge of getting it going again) it can be a little reluctant to idle until it gets back up to temperature, and sometimes needs a few blips to get itself sorted out. When I say warm here, if it's running, I stop it to roll a few logs and start it again within a minute or two I'll call it hot, and those starts are fine. Warm would be maybe up to 10 minutes or so, and much more than that I'd be expecting it to get stuck again.

I have been having an ongoing issue with really fine dust getting past the filter. I think it's the crappy bark on these gum trees. I'm pretty confident I'm on top of the problem now that I've got some spray oil for the filter now, and have started running a small line of grease around the outside edge of the filter holder in case it's getting around the filter (I found a thread about that). I took the carburettor off last night and cleaned out some obvious fine dust (that I really hope hasn't done damage to the cylinder), I haven't tried it again yet.

I did come across a comment (that I can't find now), where someone described exactly this problem as one of a few known issues that Husqvarna were working on, but the author had not been active on that forum for quite some time. He mentioned in the brief comment that it was related to a check valve in the carburettor, I think he said impulse line but I can't find the comment right now.

It's possible that this has always happened with this saw, I'm a home owner with a nice saw because I knew eventually I'd get around to the job I'm doing now. Previously I'd only really do 1 tree at a time, or take enough of a break between cutting to not notice. We finally got around to having 20 trees dropped more safely than I could do them, so now it's clean-up time and I'm out there any time I can get away from work.

Possibly related, it does sometimes (not often) seem to get itself flooded on a restart even though I'm not using the choke (just fast idle). When this happens I can get it started as you'd usually start this saw while flooded (throttle + knee + lots of careful). I think this is unrelated but just thought I'd throw it in here.

Can anyone give me some ideas of where to go from here?
 
Might want to pull the muffler and check to see if the cylinder is showing any signs of scoring. When I get mine back from the shop, I'm considering gutting the muffler and opening up the case. The latest updated 562 cover with the new air vent suggests Husqy is trying to cool this saw down.
 
I don't want to make mine any louder than it already is, never used a helmet until shortly after buying my 562 , now I really don't like cutting without ear protection. My saw starts and runs great as long as I don't work it to hard but it's loud.
I wonder what ever happened to the saw and owner that started this thread , he is from Australia so it's kinda interesting to see how things go in different parts of the world.
I will be riding through British Columbia next month on my way to Prudehoe bay Alaska.
 
Biggest issue I've had with mine is getting the intake kluge back on after I did a pop up mod. It came to me not running. Originally an early el44/ five screw case machine with a wasted flywheel side bearing with a slightly scuffed cylinder. Now it wears a el48 and has the later 6 screw cases. It has no base gasket, a muffler mod and a pop up piston. Has the latest cover with the vent. . I scuffed the cylinder with sand paper and treated it to a new ring while I had it apart. Also plugged the decomp. Its easily a match of a stock 272 about a match of a 372. It starts in three pulls every time. Sometimes two if I get to the choke fast enough. It starts hot one pull every time. Love that saw now! Might have $400 into that saw.

It vs. a 372

 
Finally got my 562 testosterone enhancer back from the shop. New Cylinder and Piston. They didnt swap out the carb. Original EL46 carb still in there. Tech figures it ran lean due to EXCESS oil in mix. o_O Never heard that before.

Husky picked up tab so all is good there. I'll be pulling the muffler frequently to keep a close eye out for any signs of lean running from here on. :guitar:
 
If they didn't find the real cause of the failure, sorry to say this, but the saw will likely end up in the shop again. I don't remember the whole story, was the saw vac and pressure tested? I would also have demanded for at least the newer carb be installed.
 
Finally got my 562 testosterone enhancer back from the shop. New Cylinder and Piston. They didnt swap out the carb. Original EL46 carb still in there. Tech figures it ran lean due to EXCESS oil in mix. o_O Never heard that before.

Husky picked up tab so all is good there. I'll be pulling the muffler frequently to keep a close eye out for any signs of lean running from here on. :guitar:

Sounds like bs to me. el48 carbs seem to run more fuel than the 46's from what I have seen. Also you can cut the top cover to simulate the "new" top covers to get some heat out. A little die grinder work on the outlet of that muffler as well....It does amuse me that those in the "know" don't seem to realize that oil is a "fuel" as well when mixed at those ratio's with gasoline. He probably thinks you make more power running a high octane gas as well.. If that was my saw? I would run 32:1 with as high an octane non ethanol gas as possible with a synthetic oil (Husqvarna) as I do my 562. I would also push for the el48. I would cut the cover like the new ones and open the outlet of the exhaust under that screen.. the above (except the 32:1 ) will make that saw run a little cooler. More oil in the fuel adds a little more "BTU's" and might add some heat. But the trade offs are to the saws benefit. Just a humble opinion. Its what I do with mine,
 
I thought the root cause was a leaking decomp valve? Or am I mixing it up with something else?
 
I thought the root cause was a leaking decomp valve? Or am I mixing it up with something else?
I had a,saw replaced under warranty with a leaky De comp that scoured the cylinder . My new saw is doing great. It hard started at the beginning of the warm weather twice. Hasnt done that since. Maybe 2 months now I don't know. Here is a cheesy video I made this morning.





 
Sounds like bs to me. el48 carbs seem to run more fuel than the 46's from what I have seen. Also you can cut the top cover to simulate the "new" top covers to get some heat out. A little die grinder work on the outlet of that muffler as well....It does amuse me that those in the "know" don't seem to realize that oil is a "fuel" as well when mixed at those ratio's with gasoline. He probably thinks you make more power running a high octane gas as well.. If that was my saw? I would run 32:1 with as high an octane non ethanol gas as possible with a synthetic oil (Husqvarna) as I do my 562. I would also push for the el48. I would cut the cover like the new ones and open the outlet of the exhaust under that screen.. the above (except the 32:1 ) will make that saw run a little cooler. More oil in the fuel adds a little more "BTU's" and might add some heat. But the trade offs are to the saws benefit. Just a humble opinion. Its what I do with mine,

Ya, my thoughts exactly but their diag software says my el46 is fine, so this is what I'm stuck with, for now.

Saw your video on widening the muff outlet. I'm going to drill out the case as well. They were adamant that these saws can over compensate with too much oil so I may push things to my normal 40 to 1 once muff is open and case has hole.
Thanks for the feedback.

Chris ... my decomp was carboned up, but evidently not leaking.
 
Tech figures it ran lean due to EXCESS oil in mix.
That makes little sense given how AT works. It's going to do a lean out test and adjust the mixture to get a specified increase in rpm during the test. However you mix your fuel, the result is what it sees, and until it reaches the limits of its adjustment range it really doesn't care. I don't buy that the adjustment range is so narrow that it cannot compensate for different ratios - and the data would show where it was anyway.

The tech is guessing, and they have no idea what was wrong with it.
 
Finally got my 562 testosterone enhancer back from the shop. New Cylinder and Piston. They didnt swap out the carb. Original EL46 carb still in there. Tech figures it ran lean due to EXCESS oil in mix. o_O Never heard that before.

Husky picked up tab so all is good there. I'll be pulling the muffler frequently to keep a close eye out for any signs of lean running from here on. :guitar:
The part in bold is ********.
 
Great to hear Husqvarna warranty covered your saw.
I'm a small time user, probably 5-15 gallons of gas per year, 50-1 is all I've ever used in any saw I've owned, none of them have ever been taken apart so I don't actually know if 50-1 has ever caused any issues but I trust Husqvarna, Stihl and Echo 50-1 recommendation , before I bought this 562 new all I ever used was regular 87 gas. Last winter I used the decompression valve quite a bit because of a bad hand from a deer-motorcycle accident last summer but the hand is now healed enough that I don't use the decompression valve any more. As long as I don't over work the saw it starts fine.
 
I'm curious to see what the outcome of all this is. My 562 is in the shop for the exact same hot start issues. It worked fine all winter/spring, now the hot weather is here and it won't start back up once it gets hot. My 540xp was having the same issue. Had it in to the dealer last summer for the same issue. He plugged it into the computer and he says "wow you have a lot of time idling!" I said "yeah, because I'm afraid to shut it off!" I think my best solution is to just get rid of it. No good when trying to make money with it...

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
 
I'm curious to see what the outcome of all this is. My 562 is in the shop for the exact same hot start issues. It worked fine all winter/spring, now the hot weather is here and it won't start back up once it gets hot. My 540xp was having the same issue. Had it in to the dealer last summer for the same issue. He plugged it into the computer and he says "wow you have a lot of time idling!" I said "yeah, because I'm afraid to shut it off!" I think my best solution is to just get rid of it. No good when trying to make money with it...

Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
When was it bought new? What carb?
 

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