Which chain is better for a ~35cc limbing and brush clearing chainsaw? I'm not concerned about the kickback aspect and want the better chain for working on the ground.
TIA,
Sid
This depends on what cutting brush and limbing means to various people. To me it means cutting to 12 feet making bundles and then taking the bundles away. Or making piles nearby. Stuff like hickory usually need a few cuts to make them stack reasonably well. If the intent is to just kill off the unwanted stuff the clearing saw you describe is a valuable suggestion. A non extendable pole saw is somewhere between a conventional chainsaw and the brush cutter.Best option for brush cutting is a brush cutter. With a circle saw blade & a straight shaft trimmer >30cc, nothing in the 4-5 inch categorie is going to stand a chance. ....
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I've given up on the circular metal blades around here for clearing at ground level - we live on a pile of rocks. At the point where I need to use it and that it would be most useful, you can no longer see into the bracken far enough to see the stones and rocks. Even when you know the terrain it's just inevitable that you'll be constantly hitting rocks. The blades with points that actually look like circular saw blades last about 5 min, while the other shapes last longer but they won't cut real wood.Best option for brush cutting is a brush cutter. With a circle saw blade & a straight shaft trimmer >30cc, nothing in the 4-5 inch categorie is going to stand a chance. Further with a straight shaft trimmer you have a much better reach for higher or farther away branches. And last at the end of the day your back is going to thank you that you spared it the constant bending over.
I would advise against using the chainsaw cutter circular blades on smaller trimmers. I see them requiring way more power.
On my Hitachi CG22 I run a circular saw blade and 2-3 inch branches are no problem whatsoever.
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The same of course is true for any cutter from a chainsaw chain.I've given up on the circular metal blades around here for clearing at ground level - we live on a pile of rocks. At the point where I need to use it and that it would be most useful, you can no longer see into the bracken far enough to see the stones and rocks. Even when you know the terrain it's just inevitable that you'll be constantly hitting rocks. ...
The same of course is true for any cutter from a chainsaw chain.
Of course a trimmer with a circular saw blade is not perfect. But then again I have never seen a perfect tool.
This is what I mean with working with a circular saw blade and no one can seriously tell me that he is faster with a chainsaw.
But I could also imagine using my kombitool with the chainsaw extension mounted a using it similar to the guy at the beginning of the film.
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I took out all those rakers / depth gauges and every 3rd cutter (I can't get skip chains here so have to make them myself) from 91P chain, with that I cut 1/2" to 1.5" junipers near the ground, it was grabby, but it was so brutal that small stuff did not flex, it got teared down. Worked ok for limbs too on bigger stuff, those under 1.5" junipers I did not even try to limb, they had so tiny limbs that I could of pull them off by hand if needed.
That might not be case with wood you have to clear.
Anyway it did not matter much that chain got dull because of hitting dirt often, cutters just teared instead of cutting, works fine with small stuff that is cut close to ground.
With normal chain issue with that small stuff was flexing and also sometimes tiny tree got stuck into chain and had to pull it out from clutch cover, with modified chain I had not those issues and work was lot faster. So when going to enough grabby, it starts to work well again.
1 inch tree gets cut/teared with 2 cutters passing it, it is not as much sawing as it is tearing, so if you have some old chain, you could try that kind of modification to chain.
Not so great chain for bigger stuff, bounces a lot and probably is hard for equipment too, might even break easier if used to bigger wood, just that you are aware of limitations of such chain. That 2.5" might be upper limit for that kind of chain, but I really did like from that chain when clearing that smaller stuff.
The same of course is true for any cutter from a chainsaw chain.
Of course a trimmer with a circular saw blade is not perfect. But then again I have never seen a perfect tool.
This is what I mean with working with a circular saw blade and no one can seriously tell me that he is faster with a chainsaw.
But I could also imagine using my kombitool with the chainsaw extension mounted a using it similar to the guy at the beginning of the film.
I am sorry but I believe you are a bit unrealistic if you believe that these techniques are only done on flat land. I am from an alpine country and we do it absolutely the same. We just wear mountain boots instead of rubber boots and have no one following us to make nice videos. I have a few brushcutter systems. I wear my backpack system when I am in really hilly terrain, my regular brushcutter in average terrain. For your type of dense briers and vines I use the mulch blades like thisYes, that works nicely on flat ground in new growth woods. But here it is steep and rocky, and it's not so much a woods as it is a jungle development project - we have more stuff from Asia than we do native species. Briers and vines in overlapping piles 10' tall and 15' in diameter. These days the newest invasives are overgrowing the ones that have been here for decades. A pole saw works pretty well for some of it, but I find if I get out before things leaf out a small saw works best.
Near as I can tell that is a 91VXL cutter with the ramped drive link of 91PX.http://www.loggerchain.com/91PXL-New-3-8-LP-050-longer-teeth_c108.htm
You may have discovered something. There appears to be no 91pxl pdf file at Oregon.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/chain/lowkick_chain_main.htm this is as close as I found.
px is champher chisel as is vx, vxl is semi chisel wonder what pxl is. Get some and test. If I had a low power saw and just charge off a loop to a particular job the shorter cutter champher chisel would be my choice. At least of the Oregon choices I have used in 3/8lp 0.050.
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