I started out with just a crankcase and a rear handle, rest of it was gone or broke. Still don't have a ton of money in it..
Huztl MS660
- Thread starter Kyler Monares
- Start date
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That's a good mid size saw. Only way I would get one is if I knew it would go together without having to modify it. It shouldn't have to take 5-6 hours to put one together. That's grinding on the cylinder and hunting the missing parts,modifying parts. That's all fun but I just want to bolt one together and not worry about the part if it's going to work like it should or fit this time like it did the last time I ordered.
That's my main problem I had a lot of work arounds that I shouldn't of had to do.
That's my main problem I had a lot of work arounds that I shouldn't of had to do.
They can be rebuilt with little effort. Parts are out there..
I ordered a 036 kit. Really curious how that will turn out. Also since I wasn't thrilled with the last set of 56mm top ends I got for my last set of 54mm MS660's, I hunted around for the ones I had received 2 years ago and that have really performed well over this period of time. THINK and thats a qualified "think" I found some. I ordered one, received it in the mail; and it LOOKS like the ones I really liked...here is the eBay link if anyone is interested:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222318574079?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'm going to tweak it a bit and put this one on "Bling" saw to see if its a match of the first 56mm's I had build a while back. I still had one from the past from the original set for the project saws of that time and put them side by side...didn't measure, but by eye they look the same. Really made my day. If it IS the right casting and cylinder, I'll convert the rest of my 660's (Except for the one with the Cross 54mm top end for now) over to these and buy a spare just in case the quality of one isn't the best..the two actually three 56mm top ends now that I don't like will end up in the scrap pile, even though they ran.
Tweaks?? I'll cut the base to reduce the squish, but only until the "free port" is .015" No more and I'll just live with the squish I end up with. Raise the intake as much as I can without risking snagging a ring, the short piston skirt makes it look like you can raise it a lot...but you can't. Might do what folks did in the past and raise it on the sides, leaving a bit in the middle to support the bottom ring. Make the intake symmetric and break all the edges on all the ports. Open the transfers as much as i can...might even put in a finger....we will see. Widen the exhaust but not change the timing just yet on any of the ports. This is more about cleaning things up. Have to wait until my shop is finished though...even might paint the muffler.
HOPING all have their projects up and running..and making chips.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222318574079?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
I'm going to tweak it a bit and put this one on "Bling" saw to see if its a match of the first 56mm's I had build a while back. I still had one from the past from the original set for the project saws of that time and put them side by side...didn't measure, but by eye they look the same. Really made my day. If it IS the right casting and cylinder, I'll convert the rest of my 660's (Except for the one with the Cross 54mm top end for now) over to these and buy a spare just in case the quality of one isn't the best..the two actually three 56mm top ends now that I don't like will end up in the scrap pile, even though they ran.
Tweaks?? I'll cut the base to reduce the squish, but only until the "free port" is .015" No more and I'll just live with the squish I end up with. Raise the intake as much as I can without risking snagging a ring, the short piston skirt makes it look like you can raise it a lot...but you can't. Might do what folks did in the past and raise it on the sides, leaving a bit in the middle to support the bottom ring. Make the intake symmetric and break all the edges on all the ports. Open the transfers as much as i can...might even put in a finger....we will see. Widen the exhaust but not change the timing just yet on any of the ports. This is more about cleaning things up. Have to wait until my shop is finished though...even might paint the muffler.
HOPING all have their projects up and running..and making chips.
You may have listed the differences between the old 56mm cylinders and the new Huztl cylinders in a previous post. What where they?
Chris3558
ArboristSite Lurker
Dave, did you replace just the clutch springs with OEM and get the clutch to stop slipping? I know the outer steel stamped clutch covers have lots of runout which doesn't make them spin with the brake off like the OEM ones.
Definitive Dave
wanna-be saw racer, saw hoarder, parts whore
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At the time I felt like i had wasted enough of the builders time so I just bought a new OEM clutch and sent it to him.
Definitive Dave
wanna-be saw racer, saw hoarder, parts whore
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2013
- Messages
- 2,118
- Reaction score
- 5,088
my first complete engine from Huztl circa June 2014
and finding out the pistons in the big bore kit were too short right about the same time
and finding out the pistons in the big bore kit were too short right about the same time
First they are based on completely different castings. The ones I had when I built the saws in the video had visually different characteristics. Top photo, left to right: Original 54mm, Original 56mm. The first 54mm cylinders (look as they do now). AND that one is actually very good. The 56mm's I used in 2014/15 look like that 1122 marked cylinder next in line...the next set, the "right" most in the top picture, and the ones in the second picture; are 56mm purchased or received, one from DD, this past year, one to the right in the second picture this last month for the latest but unfortunately the worst as well
. It has some issues as I noted in the Bling saw video with the bore not being quite where I like it along with the intake machining. The 54mm's don't seem to have changed. Looks almost like they dropped those square based ones and started simply boring out the castings used for the 54mm cylinders. Even the poor quality one I put on Bling saw ran I guess. Just wish those origional ones were still readily available. They have a larger cast area for the transfers, and were pretty symmetric everywhere. The ONLY thing I didn't like about them was the large "chamfer: that both made it a little tougher to stuff the rings in when installing that style AND less sealing surface that actually require the gasket, the metal one; to ensure a good seal. Both have the same geometry related issues with the shorter pistons. While I really haven't quantified the difference either in power or reliability, those original style cylinders have to this point worked pretty well...I like them. I wanted to move ALL my MS660's to those 56mm's and was disappointed when I got this last set. I'll have to wait and see on the newer style ones. Mean while I started hunting.....
And I just went OEM and good Oregon Drums on mine where it counts and Oregon Drums of all of the rest.....hence the recommendations. Funny how this stuff come full circle....
Here..a small world...
Save yourselves from some hassle and just convert them.http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-Chainsaw-New-MS660-066-064-Rim-and-Sprocket-washer-and-clip-3-8-7-tooth/321813007044?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=40757&meid=c69c822c93954fb1b58d6187ee4585b8&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=290781804109
At first I was in a hurry and took the OEM clutch off my 064 and and put it on the 660 it worked and didn't slip. Saturday I put the AM clutch with oem springs on the 064 and it didn't slip. If any of my drums have run out it's not enough for me to notice and it doesn't rub my chain brake. I didn't have much time so my testing was limited
I
I don't remember the step in the base of the 56mm cylinders that I received from Huztl in Sept/Oct 2016. I will have to check when I get home this evening. The intake ports where the boot attaches were machined and they were not concentric.First they are based on completely different castings. The ones I had when I built the saws in the video had visually different characteristics. Top photo, left to right: Original 54mm, Original 56mm. The first 54mm cylinders (look as they do now). AND that one is actually very good. The 56mm's I used in 2014/15 look like that 1122 marked cylinder next in line...the next set, the "right" most in the top picture, and the ones in the second picture; are 56mm purchased or received, one from DD, this past year, one to the right in the second picture this last month for the latest but unfortunately the worst as well
Conversations about a clone or part of a clone should not have versions. It is either an exact copy or not. It was at one time. Now it's a copy of a copy at an increased price. Look at your posts. Trying to pin down when the part was acceptable or not.
Buy OEM. You will have less anxiety that way. Most should anyway.
my first complete engine from Huztl circa June 2014
View attachment 549709
and finding out the pistons in the big bore kit were too short right about the same time
View attachment 549711
What is the story behind the cylinder in the upper right hand side of the top picture??
Point?
Simple solution, not sure of quality, don't buy a clone. Used OEM is always an option.
