how much more dangerous is a bigger saw

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echomeister

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Been cutting with an echo cs-450p for 5 years but today I bought a cs-620p.

I'm just a little apprehensive about the big saw, but then I also think that most saw accidents occur while limbing
and not in deep cuts.

Any advice on safety concerns moving to a bigger saw.

I won't limb with it only cut the big trunks.

Thanks
 
Been cutting with an echo cs-450p for 5 years but today I bought a cs-620p.

I'm just a little apprehensive about the big saw, but then I also think that most saw accidents occur while limbing
and not in deep cuts.

Any advice on safety concerns moving to a bigger saw.

I won't limb with it only cut the big trunks.

Thanks
Just because a saw is a little bigger doesn't mean it's more dangerous. In your case I don't consider your saw big anyways. Kinda like a motorcycle sometimes it's the little bike that's the most dangerous. Short bars have potential of being more dangerous in some cases then longer bars. Start going much over 50 inches on bar length and new dangers arise. Just treat it with respect like you should any chainsaw.
 
A larger saw can sometimes be safer than a small saw. With a larger saw you are more apt to properly position your feet and body to have a better handle on that saw. Additionally a heavier saw with a longer bar may be less prone to kickback.

That's a nice saw and should work well for you.
 
You'll be fine as long as your don't get careless and go willy-nilly running around wide open banging the bar on small branches to de-limb a log and the like. Just don't get complacent and pay attention. On top of the large increase and power your 620P will come with an Oregon Super 70 full comp round chisel chain. This is a yellow tag chain and is not low kick back. Most smaller saws have mild chains. Be aware of the location of the nose of your bar and try to avoid pinching on the top of the bar and let her rip. While the chain is not low kick back you'll notice the very fast speed and it cuts and the size of chips it puts out. Keep an eye on chain tightness early on and try to keep it on the bar of course.

Of course chaps and the other safety gear is a good idea but we all know we aren't as good about that as we should be some of the time. It's a very smooth, controllable saw but it's got a lot more balls than your smaller Echo.

You'll love it!
 
My 77 husky with no anti-vibration and .404 chain on a 20 inch bar it .
Is good example of a high heart rate chainsaw . A calmness settles in about 10 min after you set it back down .. lol It really keeps you thinking while running it. I call it husky cardio work out.

Woodblocker55

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
 
You know what a person could do is wear a Fitbit keep track heart rate . And log different size chainsaws you test. To find a good heart rate to cc ratio. [emoji106][emoji477][emoji16] This would all change on acouple variables how sharp chain is and how much you weigh. There my info dump for a Saturday night.

Woodblocker55



Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
 
You know what a person could do is wear a Fitbit keep track heart rate . And log different size chainsaws you test. To find a good heart rate to cc ratio. [emoji106][emoji477][emoji16] This would all change on acouple variables how sharp chain is and how much you weigh. There my info dump for a Saturday night.

Woodblocker55



Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
I've got a Fitbit. Hit all 9 hours of exercise yesterday and over 13,000 steps walking around the Iowa gtg. 4000 calories burned.
 
I guess the Small/ Big saw thing is some what similar to the motor cycle racing scenario " It's the nut holding the handlebars"A saw of any size can be dangerous/lethal if not used with attention & treated with respect but I would not consider the saw size has any bearing on it's safety factor It's a case of taking care with them all or they are all capable of inflicting damage to you.
 
In my case it maybe slightly different but I started out running a saw like in my avatar. a 103 cc Pioneer 600 with a 24" bar and .404 chisel chain. We did every chore with those saws. Liming over head, felling, blocking and ripping/noodling. They were heavy torque saws but as each new model came along they got smaller, more compact and lighter but also revved higher. The smaller lighter saws were the ones I found to be more prone to kickback, either the lighter weight or the higher RPM seemed to contribute more to the kickback problem, just my experience with them.
For safety sake I still prefer to run an 066 or 660 than an 026 size saw.
 
Kick back can occur with any size saw. It is most dangerous in using the tip. If you need to do a plunge cut, start with the edge of the tip.

IMO, the only danger of the larger saw is attempting to tackle too large a tree. In that case you are most vulnerable in hurting your back in moving the bucked logs.
 
My 77 husky with no anti-vibration and .404 chain on a 20 inch bar it .
Is good example of a high heart rate chainsaw . A calmness settles in about 10 min after you set it back down .. lol It really keeps you thinking while running it. I call it husky cardio work out.

Woodblocker55

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk
I've had a 77 for a year & a half, and altho I don't run it much I never noticed it didn't have anti- vibration.
 
You will certainly be less likely to be hurt with a bigger saw,a small saw gives a false sense of security that a big saw doesn't give.

The faster a cut is made the less likely something will happen.
Dull chains and small saws cutting wood that's to big for it can get you hurt,falling timber a dull chain or a saw That's to small can get you killed.
A more powerful saw will kick less than a small one,all though the saw isn't what makes it kick anyway, how your chain is fixed and how the saw is operated is what causes one to kick.

To me a top handle is without a doubt hands down the most dangerous saw there is,it's to easy to not have both hands on it all the time.

I preach all the time for people to buy and use the biggest possible saw they can afford and carry.
It's safer and far more versatile.
 
My 77 husky with no anti-vibration and .404 chain on a 20 inch bar it .
Is good example of a high heart rate chainsaw . A calmness settles in about 10 min after you set it back down .. lol It really keeps you thinking while running it. I call it husky cardio work out.

Woodblocker55

Sent from my LG-H900 using Tapatalk

I'm still looking for a 77... I have about 6 running 65's though

I've had a 77 for a year & a half, and altho I don't run it much I never noticed it didn't have anti- vibration.
For a solid body saw, the 65's/77's really don't have much vibration.. also really quiet... 77 has the same internals as the husky 480.
 
I could be wrong, but when it comes to "bigger" saws, those that tend to have or use one, usually are more experienced. Not many inexperienced guys pick up a larger saw and go to town cutting with it.

Usually, it's the guys that have little or no experience at all, that end up injuring themselves with a chainsaw. First time users and such.
 
I live in a logging area,everyone is a logger pretty much, not one person that's been killed that I know and I have known several haven't died from being cut.
The tree is far more dangerous than the saw and that's what will hurt or kill you
Be very difficult to kill yourself with a cut.
A tree will kill you in a second.
 
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