Stu in Tokyo
ArboristSite Operative
Greetings from downtown Tokyo Japan.
Yes I own 5 chainsaws and live in downtown Tokyo, LOL (OK three of them are electric, but I did say I live in downtown Tokyo, right?)
I recently got the chance to pick up a large burl from a client's property that is about 2 hours south of me down near Kamakura.
The burl is about 24" in diameter and a good 36" long.
The wood is Shii-noki or "chinquapin" or "chinkapin".
I already got four nice rounds of the wood that I made into bowl blanks.
Yes I'm a woodturner.
There is no way I can load the burl into my micro van as is, it is too heavy.
I'd much rather process it, slab it up, on site, rather than in downtown Tokyo anyways.
Now I have to get my gas saws running.
One of them, my old Husky 185CD that I like to use on my mill, as it has no chainbreak and it has an old torquey long stroke engine. I recently put a new carb on it and new piston rings, but, I can't get that old saw to run right, but I'm working on it.
My question today is about my other saw, the beast known as the Husky 3120XP that I fixed up back in August of 2014. It really is good for the mill too, but I should sell it, the old 185CD is more than enough for the trees I get here, but if I can get the 3120XP running it would have certainly done the job in the short term.
This saw new here in Japan is about $2500, so I figure I can sell it, (still undecided about that.)
I could not get the 3120XP to run, and I figured out that the carb needs a rebuild.
When I last run the saw I emptied the gas out of it and ran it until it was dry, but it seems that 4 years sitting in my basement storage area did not do anything good for the carb. The fuel line is fine, but the carb... seems the diaphragm is no good. There was no gas getting to the saw. When I put some carb cleaner into the throat of the carb, it sparks up right away for a few seconds. I took the carb apart and there is gas on the bottom of the carb, but the top of the carb was dry.
I'd say this was the diaphragm.
The needle vale is fine, I checked it, in good shape and moving freely. I went to order a carb kit for the saw from the Husky dealer here, they say "Two to four weeks...." sigh...
I'm going to Canada for my eldest daughter's university graduation soon, so I'll just pick up the kit there, but my question is about the diaphragm itself.
That little nub (technical term) in the middle of the diaphragm that actuates the needle valve, is it supposed to have a piece that slots into the arm that moves the needle valve?
I can see it not having one, as I think that the nub on the diaphragm pushes down on the arm to the needle valve, so it would not need to hook to the arm...?
Yes/No?
I just want to know, I really don't want to go all the way to Canada to pick up the parts and get the wrong diaphragm. The saw ran just fine in 2014, so maybe I'm worrying about about a non-issue, I figured that if I were to ask anywhere it would be here, the pool of knowledge runs deep here.
Thanks in advance, and I may be back for help on the 185CD.... again LOL
Cheers.
Stu.
PS I apologize if my pictures are too large.
Yes I own 5 chainsaws and live in downtown Tokyo, LOL (OK three of them are electric, but I did say I live in downtown Tokyo, right?)
I recently got the chance to pick up a large burl from a client's property that is about 2 hours south of me down near Kamakura.
The burl is about 24" in diameter and a good 36" long.
The wood is Shii-noki or "chinquapin" or "chinkapin".
I already got four nice rounds of the wood that I made into bowl blanks.
Yes I'm a woodturner.
There is no way I can load the burl into my micro van as is, it is too heavy.
I'd much rather process it, slab it up, on site, rather than in downtown Tokyo anyways.
Now I have to get my gas saws running.
One of them, my old Husky 185CD that I like to use on my mill, as it has no chainbreak and it has an old torquey long stroke engine. I recently put a new carb on it and new piston rings, but, I can't get that old saw to run right, but I'm working on it.
My question today is about my other saw, the beast known as the Husky 3120XP that I fixed up back in August of 2014. It really is good for the mill too, but I should sell it, the old 185CD is more than enough for the trees I get here, but if I can get the 3120XP running it would have certainly done the job in the short term.
This saw new here in Japan is about $2500, so I figure I can sell it, (still undecided about that.)
I could not get the 3120XP to run, and I figured out that the carb needs a rebuild.
When I last run the saw I emptied the gas out of it and ran it until it was dry, but it seems that 4 years sitting in my basement storage area did not do anything good for the carb. The fuel line is fine, but the carb... seems the diaphragm is no good. There was no gas getting to the saw. When I put some carb cleaner into the throat of the carb, it sparks up right away for a few seconds. I took the carb apart and there is gas on the bottom of the carb, but the top of the carb was dry.
I'd say this was the diaphragm.
The needle vale is fine, I checked it, in good shape and moving freely. I went to order a carb kit for the saw from the Husky dealer here, they say "Two to four weeks...." sigh...
I'm going to Canada for my eldest daughter's university graduation soon, so I'll just pick up the kit there, but my question is about the diaphragm itself.
That little nub (technical term) in the middle of the diaphragm that actuates the needle valve, is it supposed to have a piece that slots into the arm that moves the needle valve?
I can see it not having one, as I think that the nub on the diaphragm pushes down on the arm to the needle valve, so it would not need to hook to the arm...?
Yes/No?
I just want to know, I really don't want to go all the way to Canada to pick up the parts and get the wrong diaphragm. The saw ran just fine in 2014, so maybe I'm worrying about about a non-issue, I figured that if I were to ask anywhere it would be here, the pool of knowledge runs deep here.
Thanks in advance, and I may be back for help on the 185CD.... again LOL
Cheers.
Stu.
PS I apologize if my pictures are too large.