Huztl Farmertec 372 Build Kit

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I'm sure someone on here makes popups
My friend can't until winter
His job keeps him away from home.
Mine are ft 268 for the 50mm
And ft 272 for the bigbores.
Caber ring
The china rings haven't lasted long for me.
 
Are you using oem pistons? The ring on the China piston is pretty close to the top. Removing material gets awful close to locating pin. Imo decking the cylinder looks to be the way to go.
 
Are you using oem pistons? The ring on the China piston is pretty close to the top. Removing material gets awful close to locating pin. Imo decking the cylinder looks to be the way to go.

The 272 pistons have a ton of meat above the ring land. If you get a jug that isn't ****ed like mine was you should only have to take like 30 thou off the piston. My big bore just was so ****ed up I took 40 thou off the squish band just to clean it up and I was able to run the 272 piston without a pop-up as long as I kept the base gasket, which in my case I wanted to anyways for intake timing. And now that jug has basically the timing I want and 9:1 compression because the combo chamber is tiny now.
 
@Czed , Looking for someone to give me an honest cost figure for building a complete aftermarket 372 pho. All parts (oem parts used, if any), shipping costs, total cost. Will try to build an oem saw, with as few am parts as possible, keeping price as close to AM saw as possible. Will take pictures of build and list donor saw cost and parts needed to make a reliable 372 pho. HL supply has a kit for 270.63 shipped to my door and I have used them several times for oem and am parts, good service and fast shipping. Purchased a fairly complete 372xt saw in running condition for $312 (have purchased them cheaper, but looks if nice condition) and will vacuum check case first, if case holds vacuum will replace rings, fuel line, impulse and any other needed parts. Figure if it ends up under $400 total, I am close with an oem saw.
 
The 272 pistons have a ton of meat above the ring land. If you get a jug that isn't ****ed like mine was you should only have to take like 30 thou off the piston. My big bore just was so ****ed up I took 40 thou off the squish band just to clean it up and I was able to run the 272 piston without a pop-up as long as I kept the base gasket, which in my case I wanted to anyways for intake timing. And now that jug has basically the timing I want and 9:1 compression because the combo chamber is tiny now.
You are correct on that piston! Checked one out of my 272xp and it has 0.090" of material above the locating pin. This piston with a new ring might get installed in the 372 Huztl.
Is there a layman's explanation of port timing? As in ports that cost performance etc?
 
Just how much does deleting a .021” base gasket affect the timing? Generally speaking.

About the same as taking 21 thou of the bottom of the intake and the tops of the exhaust and transfers. How much that is in degrees depends on where the ports are to begin with abs the stroke.
 
Watched a youtube vid by Matthew Olson, interesting wrt timing of ports. Most interesting was iirc he turns the engine bassackwards to get his numbers?
Anyhow he inspired me to print off a degree wheel and do some investigation also of note he has a pop up piston fitted to his 372 project saw!
 
Well, I took a little time after work today to start on the kit. Got the crank in and case halves together, piston in and checked squish in 4 quadrants. It was .032 .033 .035 .036 This is NO base gasket. I didn't even try it with one. I was disappointed in this. I don't think I will be buying anymore of these kits.
 
Well, I took a little time after work today to start on the kit. Got the crank in and case halves together, piston in and checked squish in 4 quadrants. It was .032 .033 .035 .036 This is NO base gasket. I didn't even try it with one. I was disappointed in this. I don't think I will be buying anymore of these kits.

Is your squish W shaped also? If so you can do what I did and turn the squish area till its flat and run a 272 piston with a base gasket. And by turn I mean super glue some 120 grit to the 372 piston you're not going to use and chuck up a small piece of flat or square stock in a hand drill and jam some wood in the piston and spin the piston in the bore cleaning the filings out and replacing the sand paper as needed.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by W shaped. I already installed the cylinder with motoseal and no gasket. I'm gonna go ahead and build it as is. If it doesn't preform like I think it should, I may tear it back down later on.
Is your squish W shaped also? If so you can do what I did and turn the squish area till its flat and run a 272 piston with a base gasket. And by turn I mean super glue some 120 grit to the 372 piston you're not going to use and chuck up a small piece of flat or square stock in a hand drill and jam some wood in the piston and spin the piston in the bore cleaning the filings out and replacing the sand paper as needed.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
My squish band wasnt flat. Like if you cut it in half the cross section of the squish band would look like a W with it being high near the walls and in the middle and at the transition to the combo chamber.
 
My squish band wasnt flat. Like if you cut it in half the cross section of the squish band would look like a W with it being high near the walls and in the middle and at the transition to the combo chamber.
I see what you are saying now. I didn't look at mine that close. This is the 52mm cylinder. I didn't even open the 50mm. Maybe I should have checked it out too.

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Well, I was going to work on the saw a little this evening, I did a pressure test and pumped up to .6 and developed a leak. It's a fairly small leak but still a leak on the clutch side oil seal. It's leaking between the outer metal part of the seal and the case. I will have to order another seal and maybe use some sealer around the outer edge of the seal.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Well, I was going to work on the saw a little this evening, I did a pressure test and pumped up to .6 and developed a leak. It's a fairly small leak but still a leak on the clutch side oil seal. It's leaking between the outer metal part of the seal and the case. I will have to order another seal and maybe use some sealer around the outer edge of the seal.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
That happens a lot. You can apply Motoseal or whatever you use, apply vacuum for a short time and let it set up. As long as seal is not spinning in race. Then try pulling vacuum. Did you install o-ring?
 
Yes, installed o ring. Just leaking in one small place on outer edge. I may have gouged the case a little when I took out the seals that we're pre installed. The seal went a little farther than I meant for it to. I wanted it flush with the outside but it's slightly below.
That happens a lot. You can apply Motoseal or whatever you use, apply vacuum for a short time and let it set up. As long as seal is not spinning in race. Then try pulling vacuum. Did you install o-ring?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
I forgot to say thank you for the tip about pulling vacuum after I used the motoseal. That sounds like a good idea.
That happens a lot. You can apply Motoseal or whatever you use, apply vacuum for a short time and let it set up. As long as seal is not spinning in race. Then try pulling vacuum. Did you install o-ring?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 
Yes, installed o ring. Just leaking in one small place on outer edge. I may have gouged the case a little when I took out the seals that we're pre installed. The seal went a little farther than I meant for it to. I wanted it flush with the outside but it's slightly below.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
I use a washer that is larger than case opening and will slide on crank. Place seal in position, slide washer on crank, resting on seal and set with long socket. Seal sets flush every time, so far. Good luck with build.
 
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