Huztl Farmertec 372 Build Kit
- Thread starter cvx1170
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Well I finally got mine together. Took 9 pulls to pop, ran on 10th. Started right back up one pull. I will mess with it more next week. I just had to see if it would run.
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Now that mine has most of a tank through it, when cold it pops on the first one and starts 2nd or 3rd. This thing either has a much bigger gas tank than in used to or its a fuel sipper. I did some noodles before that vid to warm it up and tune the carb, that vid, and dropped 3 8" trees (in the way of dropping some dead wood), limed and bucked. Still had gas in the tank when I had to run into the house from the random downpour.
I watched your video. Sounds good. I don't have a bar and chain for mine yet. I just got it together and had to hear it pop. I have a small mount woodland pro bar, I don't know if it can be modified to fit this saw or not. I haven't looked at it yet.
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I'm not impatient. I just have this bar that I'm not using and didn't know if it could be modified or not. I've seen some husky brand.050 bars on eBay for $55 for a 24". The one I have is a 20.
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Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Wanting a T27 extra long driver bit I made one from a Huztl wrench and a pressed on section milled to 1/4" hex. Now torque for cylinder bolts is possible.Edit: not one torx fastener on this Husky! Oh well stihl good for some saws.
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Tore into the box of parts. Man a bunch of screws to sort out! IPL needs printing out i spose
All looks good so far. I wonder how they install a crank with seals in the way? Might make a sleeve for PTO side
Bought extra seals just in case
One bug the oil adjuster spring is toast after i tried to make it fit. Any tips on that one? Might get an OEM spring
All looks good so far. I wonder how they install a crank with seals in the way? Might make a sleeve for PTO side
Bought extra seals just in case
One bug the oil adjuster spring is toast after i tried to make it fit. Any tips on that one? Might get an OEM spring
Walter, there is a full build on my youtube channel. and ...imho, i tear those seals out to install the crank.
Why though? It's not like they're going to be pushed any differently than when you install the seals after and the crank to bearing fit isn't very tight so you don't need to press only on the inner races.
Yes, unlike a Stihl crank,there are no large steps in the surface.[emoji106]
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
So pulled crank into clutch side
Spacers over seal pushing on case. Used clutch as puller and squeaked it home. Pretty tight fit imo. No apparent bearing damage. Need a case splitter for bearings later. Had a spare pump so robbed that little wire on adjuster and installed it correctly.
Spacers over seal pushing on case. Used clutch as puller and squeaked it home. Pretty tight fit imo. No apparent bearing damage. Need a case splitter for bearings later. Had a spare pump so robbed that little wire on adjuster and installed it correctly.
The reason you pull the seals is two fold. One...so you can pull the crank through the bearing whilst only puthing pressure on the inner race. Two....if you invert the seal during the install you won't know it until you vac test the saw because that spring will have popped out of the seal.
The third reason is that I don't trust the china seals
The third reason is that I don't trust the china seals
Walter Glover
ArboristSite Guru
Bottom end and cylinder together now
Has 0.060" squish as assembled
Has 0.060" squish as assembled
That's what mine had with the gasket. .035 without. I only started it a couple times so far. Haven't tried to tune it yet. Has 150 psi.
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If you try to pull the crank through the bearing with the seal already installed...you can pucker the seal. ...and you won't know it until you do the vac test.
And ...#2 ....I disagree
Use the kitchen oven at 275 degrees and the ice maker in the freezer and things fall together. [emoji106]
Ah....now we are getting somewhere. The difference being that when you already have a crank installed....installation of the seal afterwards can be done with a shim so you can be sure to avoid puckering the seal. ...and I can prove it.
Go to the 430 ish mark ...at least doing it this way I know for sure I didn't invert the seal.
With respect to the bearings being tight or not on the crankshaft. ...if it's not a press fit the crank will spin in the inner race and ruin the crank. Then you'll have too much play and a leak. I've spent plenty of time installing bearings with heat and cold...no more of that for me. that and it just drives me crazy to put lateral forces on bearings. Nuff said...best of luck with your build however you do it
