Your cutting crooked issue might be that your bar just needs a good dressing to square it up, and remove any burrs along the edges.
What's your favorite firewood scrounging saw
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Your cutting crooked issue might be that your bar just needs a good dressing to square it up, and remove any burrs along the edges.
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
I swapped chains around because I was tired of trying to sharpen the other one and the other chain is a skip tooth
I don't know really I bought it used but it's a February 2018 production I wasn't aware that there was a real break-in period on these.It's a dolmar thing. Is the 372 broken in looks new.
I didn’t think there was a break in period on my new husky 575 & 385. When each saw hit about 10 cords they started to run like my older huskys they screamed.
One rail on the bar can wear more than the other. The 1” wide belt sander from harbor freight can square bars. Then I take a three corner file and deburr the groove on both sides and chamfer the outside edges of the bar, bar maintenance.
One rail on the bar can wear more than the other. The 1” wide belt sander from harbor freight can square bars. Then I take a three corner file and deburr the groove on both sides and chamfer the outside edges of the bar, bar maintenance.
What grit sand paper do you use on that 1” wide sander?
champion221elite
ArboristSite Operative
Currently, my favorite saw is an Echo CS490, but that will likely be changing as I have an MS261 and Husky 555 in transit. Hoping to put them on some wood once the bars arrive.
I use 100 grit paper.
Ok, cool! Thankee!
My firewood scrounging saw is my old trusty Stihl 020 started out as a 020t when I was climbing and now sports a back handle, never been rebuilt, rattles like a brick in a washing machine! I will rebuild it one day, but it always starts and runs like a watch, so I leave it be!
I was a scrounge small branches, tree tops with my 70’s husky 240sg. Until she kicked back and ran across my logging boots as my toes curled under my foot. It just tattooed my tip of my boot. Then I figured out cutting small branches for kindly just wasn’t worth it. I leave the 1” diameter stuff on the ground. I’ll never cut on a pile of brush again.
You can learn from my close calls.
You can learn from my close calls.
TysonH
ArboristSite Operative
A ported 361 with a light 20”-24”
Rjpoog1989
ArboristSite Member
My 562xp is my go to saw for firewood now that I’ve got a 20” bar for it. I was pleased with it for felling and big logs with the 24”, but now I like it even more. I’m used to running a 550xp with a 20” at work, but the 562 is way faster.
Oz Lumberjack
ArboristSite Member
Another vote for the 462, they even handle a 25" bar with full chisel in Australian hardwood.MS462 normal 18" on the picture. Same balance with 20 light.
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Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
I'm sure everyone would love a new 462.
But possibly a little overkill for "scrounging".
But possibly a little overkill for "scrounging".
captain dangers
partner 1633B (skil) chainsaw
anything up to 10" rounds I, personaly, would use a mcculloch 484 type saw, simply because they are really good value for money, they can take a beating, have a really good quality Italian Gilardoni cylinder, decent anti-vibes, very light with a narrow kerf bar which flies through soft wood as good as any other. I'm not saying they the best saw in the world, but an ideal cheat and cheerful saw ideal for what your doing, you can pick non runners up for as little as £15 here in the u.k . and they perform really well with a muffler mod. why would I want to take a larger more expensive pro-grade saw out when I can get the job done equally as fast with a cheaper saw? but only for ego's sake ;o) an 024, 026 or husky 346xp would equally do smaller stuff.
346, and ported 346.
Vibes and filters
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Sharp chain with very little hook helps both
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