Stihl Flippy Cap solution

[Bobby Kirbos]

I found the fix for the Stihl over-engineered solution in search of a problem....

I bought an Echo.

 

[caesarleigh]

I found the fix for the Stihl over-engineered solution in search of a problem....

I bought an Echo.

Ha! I bought two! Full disclosure it was to "fix" the unfixable mtronic problem first. Ridding myself of the flotsam/jetsam catching nooks/crannies of the flippy caps was a nice bonus. Love my Echos & my Echo dealer!

 

[holeycow]

Edit.

 

[user 122190]

I found the fix for the Stihl over-engineered solution in search of a problem....

I bought an Echo.

You could have saved some money and just read the 2,357 pages. I read it twice, just so I didn't miss anything during the first read.

Instructions for flippy caps = read 2,357 pages on the internet and hope for the best.

 

[TheTone]

Anecdotal report, take it for what it's worth. I was finishing up an MS250 today that I built on a Stihl foundation, but with lots of Chinese parts. Fueled it up for its first start, put on the Chinese flippy cap and tightened it up. Turned it right side up and there was a steady dribble of fuel out the bottom of the cap. Tried again, this time making sure the alignment, pressure on the cap and final click were right. Steady dribble again. Pried off the O-ring and put on one I had bought in bulk on Ebay. No drip. No drip at all through the first heat cycle. Here's the interesting part: got out the calipers and measured thickness and inner diameter just as I had with the Ebay rings - right on (if anything the thickness was a hair more than the Ebay rings). No visual imperfections, nothing wrong by feel. I have no explanation for the problem.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I agree. Lots and lots of complaints about the flippy caps. In 8 years of having my ms290, only once has it posed a problem. I soaked it in a solvent for the night and it has been perfect since (3+ years, and still going).

But there are folks here with money to burn and cost is not a factor in modifying a saw. $100s is spent to shave a second or two off cutting time, so why not spend far less and save minutes in refueling.

With the MS290 all you need is an 029 case, no floppies.
That's actually a 390...

 

[svk]

Anecdotal report, take it for what it's worth. I was finishing up an MS250 today that I built on a Stihl foundation, but with lots of Chinese parts. Fueled it up for its first start, put on the Chinese flippy cap and tightened it up. Turned it right side up and there was a steady dribble of fuel out the bottom of the cap. Tried again, this time making sure the alignment, pressure on the cap and final click were right. Steady dribble again. Pried off the O-ring and put on one I had bought in bulk on Ebay. No drip. No drip at all through the first heat cycle. Here's the interesting part: got out the calipers and measured thickness and inner diameter just as I had with the Ebay rings - right on (if anything the thickness was a hair more than the Ebay rings). No visual imperfections, nothing wrong by feel. I have no explanation for the problem.

Sometimes the Chinese parts are too soft/squishy.

I had a gasket in a Husky oil cap from China and the darn thing would squish out too far.and start to leak.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

I've bought flippy caps from Chinese vendors before and you have to buy a half dozen of them to get 4 good ones...seems there's always a couple that won't work right, they won't close right or they leak..

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The only defenders of flippy caps are Stihl guys. Everyone else sees the folly.

STIHL owners have big hands, it's just the way it is.

The flippy caps are positive-locking, so they don't come loose and spill fuel, and in theory are easy and fast to remove/install.

The caps are still commonly discussed so I brought back a previously dead thread (because it's on topic).

Operator error , and that is the cause of most chainsaw problems.

In 2023 I had 4 small "geysers" with saws made in 2023 (though not bad ones, and that was over all of 2023). What happens is the internal curve on the tank required by the flip-cap means the tank most always holds some fuel. At least some of it tends to be on the cap o-ring and threads, and the positive pressure in the tank forces that fuel past the o-ring when opening the cap, which is a very quick-release 1/4 turn. Even on tanks without flip-caps the "internal" (inset) cap configuration causes the geyser problem (eg. KM-130 powerhead). Regardless of the tank being "empty," the unit in a position so the cap is completely "up" and away from the fuel, and opening the cap slowly, I still got sprayed.

An external cap doesn't have this problem because the threads and gasket are mainly external away from the fuel

STIHL's solution is to let the saw cool 15 minutes before opening the fuel tank, which is fine if taking the time to eat, drink, sharpen the chain, and get a five-minute nap.

I happen to like the caps (mostly, though not the geyser issue); I put a rag over the fuel cap before opening (the oil cap isn't an issue), so yeah, there's still an issue, though I remember that being the case with the 015 model from 1970 and the similar insert-the-cap design where the threads held fuel.

Here's the one-way STIHL tank vent:


Seen from the top down, disassembled:


Seen from the bottom up, disassembled:



1970s era STIHL 015:

 

[bwalker]

Never had a problem with Stihl flippy caps.

 

[NeSurfcaster]

Fuel caps aren't really a big a issue for me but the oil caps on 201's usually are. Young guy passed me the saw up today and on my way up my hand felt weird and sure enough oil cap was on the ground and half a tank of bar oil down my glove/shirt/pants. Wind today blew most of the oil onto back of bucket truck and driveway not into bucket. Thank god it was a gravel driveway and not concrete/asphalt. Too often you have to grab the oil soaked cap and spin it back and try it again. Even when clean of chips/dust it does it every day especially when cold out. Give me some threads not quarter turn crap.
I will be checking the oil cap for now on when new guy fuels saw up, 2nd time it's happened now.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Local firewood cutters been using these I put on for them. They love them.

Used to get them through CCC Racing from Dave. He ordered 1000 Farmertec and sold out.

Online place in TX sells them now under name of Proline.

Does away with the flippy part at least.

 

[Lionsfan]

STIHL owners have big hands, it's just the way it is.

The flippy caps are positive-locking, so they don't come loose and spill fuel, and in theory are easy and fast to remove/install.

The caps are still commonly discussed so I brought back a previously dead thread (because it's on topic).



In 2023 I had 4 geysers with saws made in 2023. What happens is the internal curve on the tank required by the flip-cap means the tank most always holds some fuel. At least some of it tends to be on the o-ring, and the positive pressure in the tank forces that fuel past the o-ring when opening the cap, which is a very quick-release 1/4 turn. Even on tanks without flip-caps the internal cap configuration causes the geyser problem (KM-130 powerhead). Regardless of the tank being "empty," the unit in a position so the cap is completely "up" and away from the fuel, and opening the cap slowly, I still got sprayed.

STIHL's solution is to let the saw cool 15 minutes before opening the fuel tank, which is fine if taking the time to eat, drink, sharpen the chain, and get a five-minute nap.

I happen to like the caps (mostly), though not the geyser issue; I put a rag over the fuel cap before opening (oil isn't an issue), so yeah, there's still an issue, though I remember that being the case with the 015 from 1970 and the similar insert-the-cap design.

Here's the one-way STIHL tank vent:
View attachment 1161189

From the top down, disassembled:
View attachment 1161188

From the bottom up, disassembled:
View attachment 1161190


STIHL 015:
View attachment 1161192

Never had a problem with Stihl flippy caps.

Agreed, they work just fine, not sure what all the grief is about.

 

[Mad3400]

The caps always worked fine for me, you just got to make sure you clean the groves & cap, which goes for all equipment.

Mad3400

 

[jblnut]

Of all the chainsaw issues I’ve had over the years I don’t think I have ever had an issue with the flippy caps

 

[EchoRomeoCharlie]

If you can't figure out and work flippy caps, you shouldn't be running a saw.

 

[bwalker]

If you can't figure out and work flippy caps, you shouldn't be running a saw.

Kinda my opinion too.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Yup
Just have to be smarter than the cap.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Yup
Just have to be smarter than the cap.

Like we say about most German mechanicals: Over-engineered to the point of failure, and priced accordingly.

​

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Like we say about most German mechanicals: Over-engineered to the point of failure, and priced accordingly.

​

Reminds me of this.