That limits it to pre 1976 models which would have had the throttle release/latch in the top of the rear handle. Most likely and early PM55 or PM60. The PM60 is 1.870" bore which should be detectable even with a straw.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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FWIW and as a piece of general information, the 'special wrench' was just a flat open end wrench that fit between the cylinder fins from the side to access the plug vs. a socket style scrench that fit over the end of the spark plug from the top.
Should be able to easily modify one of the thinner table saw wrenches or other similar power tool wrenches to work.
I found a photo of this Franken10 saw with that throttle latch but I don't know if it has a model number tag anywhere to narrow it down. Of course it is always possible that someone swapped the tank from a different saw.
Mark
Mark
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
I'm rebuilding and porting a 7-10a and I dont know if I have thin or thick rings it is a chrome bore. Also could use the timken number for the F/W side crank bearing
Serial#- 13-41306 it also has another tag bolted down serial#-11-21630 any help is greatly appreciated
Serial#- 13-41306 it also has another tag bolted down serial#-11-21630 any help is greatly appreciated
Happy new years to all you McCulloch nuts.
Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk
On eBay a set of these super thin wrenches are about 25$ not sure if this helps guys. Don't mind the red 88cc saw
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big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
Good morning all still need help
I'm rebuilding and porting a 7-10a and I dont know if I have thin or thick rings it is a chrome bore. Also could use the timken number for the F/W side crank bearing
Serial#- 13-41306 it also has another tag bolted down serial#-11-21630 any help is greatly appreciated
I'm rebuilding and porting a 7-10a and I dont know if I have thin or thick rings it is a chrome bore. Also could use the timken number for the F/W side crank bearing
Serial#- 13-41306 it also has another tag bolted down serial#-11-21630 any help is greatly appreciated
Wish i could help you on the rings. The mac 70cc saws have a wide array of seemingly random combinations of pistons and cylinders with different transfers. It was really discussed in depth last year. There was no real rhyme or reason. If youre rebuilding it...once its apart youll know immediately. Not being sarcastic but as soon as you get it apart youll see the piston and know what you have. Theres like 4 or 5 different pistons used in the 70cc saws.
The IPL calls for McCulloch 63429 or 63429B, these bearings are pretty much unobtanium. They have an extra wide outer race and the seal (61818) presses into the bearing.
63429/63429B
Nachi 158CO456
FAG 517573
Many of the 10-10 models use 67905 which requires a different seal, 67906. This bearing is narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing, presses in side by side with the bearing.
67905
FAG 522157
Bob Johnson has those bearings and seals. For what it's worth, the shaft is 9/16" diameter (0.562") and the O.D. is 1-9/16" (1.562"). I found a batch of seals one time and bought them all, split them with Bob Johnson, and I have not been able to find any again.
If anyone should find a source for either of these replacements, please speak up as the current supplies are very limited.
Mark
63429/63429B
Nachi 158CO456
FAG 517573
Many of the 10-10 models use 67905 which requires a different seal, 67906. This bearing is narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing, presses in side by side with the bearing.
67905
FAG 522157
Bob Johnson has those bearings and seals. For what it's worth, the shaft is 9/16" diameter (0.562") and the O.D. is 1-9/16" (1.562"). I found a batch of seals one time and bought them all, split them with Bob Johnson, and I have not been able to find any again.
If anyone should find a source for either of these replacements, please speak up as the current supplies are very limited.
Mark
And Happy New Year to everyone...
Mark
Mark
Interesting mod for the muffler. Must have a serious exhaust note to it
Yes, there are extensive discussions about the 70cc top ends in a couple of forums. Start with what you have, do the research, and go from there. Just don't take everything you read as gospel unless the consensus and documentation are both there to substantiate what someone may claim to know from 'their personal experience'. Someone not smart enough to know what they don't know usually doesn't. (And for the record, I'm not referring to anyone from this forum.)
It goes all the way up to '11'.
Some may be skeptical, but depending on the actual condition of a given bearing, reconditioning and recovery is entirely possible in many cases if the 'bad' is just limited to general funk and foreign debris (even metal) with no obvious physical damage to the bearing assembly itself. If the bearing is NLA and also 'bad', you have nothing to lose by giving it a shot. I did so with the encouragement and endorsed method of Randy 'Mastermind' Evans and have revived several NLA proprietary Stihl bearings to totally acceptable condition that are all now in running restorations..., one actually in an 045 being used on an Alaskan mill.
First thing is to give the bearing a hose down with brake cleaner and a good blowing out with compressed air to get rid of the obvious. Then break out the ultra sonic cleaner for a few cycles in a solution of 50/50 water and the purple, green, yellow, or whatever color of your favorite cheapie cleaner along with a coupla squirts of the dish detergent concentrate of your choice. Pull it out and spin it occasionally, but let it go and forget it for the most part. When satisfied that it's as good as it's going to get, rinse and spin it under the faucet, then blow dry before a final hosing with brake cleaner and dropping it into a baggie of oil for the final step (and storage if all went well). If you still feel a bit of grit after a good oiling, rinse again with brake cleaner and try another oil bath in the baggie. You should know by then if the effort was worthwhile.
With a little luck you'll be quite surprised by the results.
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks everyone for replying Does anyone know the actual thickness of the two different rings for the 85239 piston? I have the windowed piston and the rings are .045 I think they are thin just not sure. I'm going to clean the NLA bearing and hope it's good. Hope everybody had a Happy New Year
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
I found the FAG 517573 on US ebay $70.00
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...Desc=0&_odkw=Nachi+158CO456&_osacat=0&_sop=15
Its also in a few stores in U.K. for $20.00 less
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...Desc=0&_odkw=Nachi+158CO456&_osacat=0&_sop=15
Its also in a few stores in U.K. for $20.00 less
big10pointer
ArboristSite Operative
Should I hone the cylinder or just use sand paper? Mcculloch 7-10 chrome bore
Mark,what would cause the PM310 to blow bar oil out the exhaust?
I also found the problem with the choke plate not opening all the way.The carb box that you used in it is the culprit,it prevents the choke plate from opening fully.I'm pretty sure I can use my Dremel tool to sand out on the bottom a bit & that should solve the problem.
I also found the problem with the choke plate not opening all the way.The carb box that you used in it is the culprit,it prevents the choke plate from opening fully.I'm pretty sure I can use my Dremel tool to sand out on the bottom a bit & that should solve the problem.
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