McCulloch Chain Saws

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That is not good to hear. Any time someone sees or hears about someones cool collection their is another kind of person that thinks I'm going to take it. The old friend of a friend told me where to get my next fix at. If I could help let me know.
Thanks Todd.Right now it's gonna cost me about $100 to replace those carbs + the rebuild kits they'll most likely need.
 
It's pretty sad when someone comes into my living room & steals 2 Tilly HL carbs for my Mac saws.I had both rebuilt & ready to go on my D44 & 1-70.I've had a bunch more parts saws stolen too along with 6 brand new Oregon D096 bars.The parts saws were little Homies - XLs & Super2s.
Sorry to learn that you got ripped off like that.
 
flatsfisher - there should be a duckbill valve to prevent fuel from coming out, but allowing atmospheric air pressure in to make up for the fuel as it is consumed.

View attachment 1038108

There are other insert styles, hopefully your cap has the brass one as they are the easiest to service.

The fuel caps from my 2-10, 10-10 and PM700, with some clearly missing the inserts:
IMG_20221222_112047.jpg
 
You can make your own inserts, brass, plastic, steel, aluminum...doesn't much matter just needs to be a snug press fit in the hole. Drill a 5/32" diameter hole 1/4" deep in the insert, then a very small diameter (1/64") hole all the way through. Use the red Homelite duckbill valve and a metering spring from a small carburetor.

I'd replace the gaskets while you're at it.

Mark
 
That is the OEM duckbill valve but the red Homelite valve will also work. The green Poulan valve will work on the longer brass inserts but does not fit in the shorter plastic inserts. As you can see below, I made a steel insert to replace a missing brass one.

Duckbill valves.jpg

The duckbill valve seals against the insert by spring pressure, if the pressure in the tank becomes too high due to thermal expansion/vapor pressure the valve will theoretically lift and vent the excess pressure. The tube is just a guide for the spring as best I can determine.

Mark
 
The Homelite ones are also much cheaper than the OEM and you can get packs of 5 or 10, the shipping is still too prohibitive for me though.
I did wonder if the Homelite brass insert they fit into would fit the McCulloch cap but then I guess they are no more plentiful...

That makes sense about the spring pushing the valve against the insert, although I believe the valve doesn't move but rather opens up.
I have since found some videos about them...




By the way, that number 69541 doesn't bring up anything on ebay but you have called it up as 69451 on another post and that does.
The only ones that I am aware of that actually fit the space available are the OEM type 63041/86402 and they are very hard to find. The red Homelite valves can be made to work if you drill the retainer (plastic disc) to 5/32".

View attachment 1032137
 
The Homelite ones are also much cheaper than the OEM and you can get packs of 5 or 10, the shipping is still too prohibitive for me though.
I did wonder if the Homelite brass insert they fit into would fit the McCulloch cap but then I guess they are no more plentiful...

That makes sense about the spring pushing the valve against the insert, although I believe the valve doesn't move but rather opens up.
I have since found some videos about them...




By the way, that number 69541 doesn't bring up anything on ebay but you have called it up as 69451 on another post and that does.


A regular homelite gas cap also fits the McCulloch tank.
 
Uważam, że ta dyskusja na temat sprężyn zapobiegających zapadaniu się miękkich linii jest interesująca, ponieważ kończę teraz projekt. Dostałem nowy przewód paliwowy i impulsowy wraz ze stosem nowych części i zamierzałem jechać bez sprężyn, ponieważ Mark nie miał odpowiednich w momencie składania zamówienia. po przeczytaniu instrukcji serwisowej zmieniłem zdanie. pisarz wydaje się myśleć, że są one konieczne.

oto co zostało ze sprężynek w moim przewodzie paliwowym i przewodzie impulsowym. sprężyna impulsowa jest większa. zastanawiając się, gdzie idą małe metalowe kawałki, kiedy korodują tak jak te.
View attachment 1016598View attachment 1016599View attachment 1016600View attachment 1016601
convert this counter to mm ;-)
 
Turning the inserts on a lathe is a much quicker solution...

But typically a 3d printer is far more available than a lathe for the average person.

I would think the issue with 3d printing the part would be making sure the filament used is rated for continuous contact with gas and oil.
 
But typically a 3d printer is far more available than a lathe for the average person.
Yeah, I don't have a lathe, I don't even have a workshop.
I do however have 20 years experience using an architectural CAD program, perhaps I need to learn how to use whatever program is required for 3D printing...
 

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