Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I seriously would take a 70's era suburban for a family vehicle if I ever found a real nice one.
I've always thought I'd go though it and replace every wear item ( externals around the engine, brake system etc.) Keep an extra kidney for the distributor in the glove box, and a few tools. I would feel more comfortable driving that to California than I would a new vehicle with the 1000's of things that can go wrong with them at any moment.

On the gravel pit, ours stopped loading pick ups for a while, probably over the psychos who came in brand new pick ups expecting to keep them pristine in a gravel pit. ( Which I agree is one of the dumbest things I've ever heard of. )
After a while , I think they realized just how much money it was costing them so they opened it back up to single axle trucks. It's got to be a tough spot for them , but there are better ways to handle it than being reckless and trying to destroy someone's truck. I'd probably make anyone in a nice truck sign a damage waiver when they weigh in.
I myself won't own a truck I'm afraid to use like a truck unless I'm fortunate enough to also have a " work truck" for stone etc.
A real clean 73 and up a Suburban would be in the mid teens . One like mine mid 20s . Forget a 72 and older burban those are mid teens for a beater that needs just about everything 4x4 would add a few grand . Reason being all the guys with kids are buying them up a cool show vehicle that they can put the rug rats in . Even the 3+3 trucks are getting stupidly priced
I might put stuff in the back of this one . Like a cooler
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I live in northern Michigan/ogemaw county and have property in lapeer county just about every ash tree is gone or dead. Have been seeing a lot of young regrowth though. Nothing major but seeing a lot of saplings. Not sure if it's root/stump offshoots or what. Maybe the eab ran out of food and moved on. You can see under the bark where they did there damage. I sure hope that blight/disease doesn't wipe them back out again
We have lots of new Ash growth from the Ash keys that are spread all over the ground. I figure in 10 years I'll know if they survive or not. Right now my obsession is to remove all the diseased trees to stop the spread. The immediate issue is I have 5 trees to remove near my house. I can't remove them without destroying my lawn because the ground is still not frozen.
 
Build a wood rack and put down another pallet for knots and uglies. These were free issue from work so it can’t hurt to try.
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I have noticed that my splits do dry faster when put in the boxes I build,

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Good way to store firewood and it's easy to move with my tractor too.

SR
 
Read an interesting article once by a native American. He was chuckling at how the highly intelligent white man spends a small fortune on gas to evaporate the sap. If I remember the quote correctly it was something like " us dumb savages just set it out to freeze overnight and chip the resulting ice off in the morning. Three rounds of that , and there is precious little water to remove" Layed that article down feeling a bit humbled!
 
Read an interesting article once by a native American. He was chuckling at how the highly intelligent white man spends a small fortune on gas to evaporate the sap. If I remember the quote correctly it was something like " us dumb savages just set it out to freeze overnight and chip the resulting ice off in the morning. Three rounds of that , and there is precious little water to remove" Layed that article down feeling a bit humbled!
While freezing will concentrate the sugar but marginally I do it all the time. The most I’ve ever gotten by freezing and removing the chunks and slush was 8% sugar content my trees produce between 3 and 4 % which is actually very high . But you need 66% or 66 brix on the hydrometer to be syrup .
 
I wonder if there's a specific make/model guide line to building a pipe? There must be info on it out there I would think. ☝️Also, NOS?🤔 Ive seen NOS kits fir saws on the internet, but I have no idea how much NOS would Improve performance? I've heard from both sides of that coin!🤷
Unfortunately, it is not that simple. The pipe specs also have to match your port size, port timing, ignition timing and carb mods and your RPM range. Gitting it right usually involves a lot of experimentation. I'm sure a little research could get you in the ballpark, the trick is to get a working pipe that still lets you effectively use the saw.

Generally, it is a tube, into a chamber, into another tube. The length and diameter of the tubes is key. The aim (like headers on a car) is to establish a "pulse" that is in sync with your saw that first prevents unburned mix from escaping through the exhaust port, then pulls the spent gasses out.
 
While freezing will concentrate the sugar but marginally I do it all the time. The most I’ve ever gotten by freezing and removing the chunks and slush was 8% sugar content my trees produce between 3 and 4 % which is actually very high . But you need 66% or 66 brix on the hydrometer to be syrup .
I suspect their expectations might have been a little different than ours too. I like my syrup thick and sweet!
 
Morning all.

Too many pages to read so hopefully I didn't miss anything out of the ordinary.

Spent most of yesterday working outside. Continued to work on the garage organization and purging. Also dug out and emptied the enclosed snowmobile trailer so I can use it.

I had help from all three boys who did a lot of heavy lifting but I am still sore as hell today.
 
Honestly I was a bit on the fence when It came to the 338/06. Never really paid much mind to it as factory ammo is not accessible here on the Island. Infact Im not sure any major ammo manufacturers produce factory 338-06. Being as I don't reload yet I've always steered away from wildcat cartridges. However, after reading more and more on the 338-06. It has definitely raised an eyebrow! Seems like an outstanding hunting cartridge suitable for any North American medium to big game. As well as several different African species also! 👍 I'm very curious about the cartridge now Mike!
Depending on bullet selection, the 338-06 seems to be a great compromise between the 30-06 and 35 Whalen. Both of the larger bores are capable of providing more power than the 06 initially, but the 35 Whalen generally losses power faster as the range increases. Conversely, the 338 caliber bullets often have a higher BC than the other two, further increasing the power over distance.

Plus, it is unusual, and nice to have something different that is also very effective. The larger diameter bullets should kill more effectively and provide better blood trails.

My binocular has a range finder built in and pushing a 200/210 grain bullet at about 2,700 FPS should make it very compatible with the "dead hold BDC" range marks on my scopes.

I got into handloading early. After purchasing my Buffalo Bill 30-30 when I was 16, my next two rifles were my M-77 in 220 Swift and my Model 71 in 348 Winchester. Ammo for both was very expensive and hard to find, and I like to shoot! Reloading was my only real option!

Once fired 30-06 brass is easy to find at the range, and one pass through the sizing die and it is ready to be loaded for the 338-06. It is as easy as just reloading it for the 30-06. I have acquired 200, 210 and 225 grain bullets to try out. The Barnes all copper 210 and 225 grain bullets have BCs of .482 and .514 respectively.
 
Depending on bullet selection, the 338-06 seems to be a great compromise between the 30-06 and 35 Whalen. Both of the larger bores are capable of providing more power than the 06 initially, but the 35 Whalen generally losses power faster as the range increases. Conversely, the 338 caliber bullets often have a higher BC than the other two, further increasing the power over distance.


Once fired 30-06 brass is easy to find at the range, and one pass through the sizing die and it is ready to be loaded for the 338-06. It is as easy as just reloading it for the 30-06. I have acquired 200, 210 and 225 grain bullets to try out. The Barnes all copper 210 and 225 grain bullets have BCs of .482 and .514 respectively.
You just need to learn how to spell Whelen... lol

I MUCH prefer to fireform, to make .338-06 brass, so as to keep the neck thickness even all around, tapered expanders don't always do that as well...

SR
 
I have to wonder if it was done to remove a lot of water prior to heating… it would save a lot of fuel (whether wood, gas, or oil).
I do it if the weather cooperates. At 2% you need roughly 40 gallons of sap to make 1 gallon of syrup . The amount isn’t linear either at 4% is roughly 27 gallons of sap which my trees are around every year naturally . I once got it to 8% prior to boil went to less than 20 to 1.

Most commercial use some sort of reverse osmosis. Some local guys have made the switch to it also . I looked into it but it’s not viable for me expense wise . And at $10 for a 20lb tank fill I don’t use much at all
 
Gull darnit we are getting snow...I wanted to grab that wood scrounge before that happened.

My kids were supposed to be home at 10 yesterday to help....one showed at 10 and the other two at 12:30. As a result we did not have time to grab the wood yesterday. Hate dealing with snowy wood if not necessary.
 
How's everyone's firewood consumption been? Other than the Christmas blizzard, it's been really mild. These are the kind of fires I'm having, with kindling and one split or 2 smaller ones. I'm at about 2 facecord or 2/3 of a full cord so far since end of October. Usually January and February I'll burn that much per month and here we are halfway through January.
Extremely low compared to previous winters. As we are having a mild winter this year here on the Island. By this time last year I had gone through six cord of Spruce between Oct 1 and Jan 15th. This year I may be at half that!👍 No complaints from me! The Blacktial should fair good if this weather holds warm fir the rest of winter. Means fir BIG bucks this coming fall! "If" it stays warm!IMG_20230116_102610993_HDR.jpg
 
Still hitting the wood pile manually splitting. Splitter is still in the hospital. My aim with the Fiskars has improved tremendously - even hit the same exact spot fairly often, right next to it mostly. I do an hour a day but my physical condition has already improved to the point I quit before getting tired. I don't want to work myself out of something to do. An hour a day is sufficient.

Had to retire my 8 lb sledge hammer. Not very old but big chips out of both faces and now a split is running from one face half way to the sledge 'eye'. I'll baptise the new one tomorrow.

Temps coming down from March back to January averages. 20s low, lo 30s hi. Only small showers occasionally showing for the 10 day forecast. Drought continues. Good snow pack in the mountains though.
 
Extremely low compared to previous winters. As we are having a mild winter this year here on the Island. By this time last year I had gone through six cord of Spruce between Oct 1 and Jan 15th. This year I may be at half that!👍 No complaints from me! The Blacktial should fair good if this weather holds warm fir the rest of winter. Means fir BIG bucks this coming fall! "If" it stays warm!View attachment 1049124
My buddy has a Blacktail from up there from when he was in the coast guard. I told him it was small compared to the ones you had posted pics.
 

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