I guess part of the reason I wasted my time to do this, is this blow up bully type approach to any push back is a mission of mine. I will chase it every time. Part for entertainment, but part as simply a public service so folks who may pass thru here understand at what level these discussions are allowed to fall when folks are so invested in one approach or another, regardless of how they "fit" in the viewers world. It's like all "fads", a grain of truth mixed with BS. An example, abet a little less critical, As much as I enjoy things like a big full wrap handle for cosmetic reasons, a saw configured that way is a hinderance. But so many will tap into the "fad" and build a saw that can actually hurt their ability to function. Same with felling technique. many are driven by the process not the situation. Hence the angst. My mission is to fight that at every turn so folks will learn as many as possible, and understand while one may be preferred infact better in a scenario, another may work better and safer for their scenario. So my advice has been to always study the different ones. As I put in a video a while back, get trained locally first. Operate with that knowledge for a bit, then study the others , as many as possible. Because there may be a nugget in there useful to your system. John Adler's teaching added a lot to mine.
and now you're attacking full wrap bars... atypical east coast ignorance, they are popular out here because they work, taint none of us willing to drag around extra weight just for the image.
You're stated mission is to fight attitudes like mine... and you have the audacity to call ME arrogant and a bully lol... cool bruh cool
Yeah, a complex discussion yet again effected by tree characteristics and the definition of "win". The design of the hinge, design of the face cut along with the weight of the tree all have an effect on the direction a tree will fall. Also will increase or decrease the danger to the person near that tree. Stronger hinge design has more influence than one that might break mid fall where then the "weight" distribution of the tree makes the final decision on that next part of the fall. And what can break a hinge? Geometry. That defines the point the hinge closes. And the design of the hinge along with the weight distribution of the tree defines what happens after the face cut closes from a break & fall to a barber chair. And all that depends on the physical characteristics of the wood in the tree. Some break clean & easy. Some break with less angle and don't need a lot of face cut angle. Ash doesn't with it's cable like fibers. That hinge design along with the face design needs to be tailored to all those things. Would take a book to describe even the scenario's I have on my current job with Ash, Hard Maple, and Cherry. It's a blend of these things that defines the best way to put a tree safely in a desired location. And then there is the "geometry" of the saw log after it's on the ground. At times I have to compromise the value to safely put the tree where I need. Sacrifice log length for safety. Other time the lean is favorable and I can skim on face cut/hinge to maximize the saw logs value. Yet again not a one size fits all discussion. Funny thing is when I drop the tree's off a hill side, the face cut design looks like a Humboldt. But often with a normal set of tree's I will just use the "lowest common denominator" with an approach that will likely and safely get the tree down even if I loose a little log length.
Yet again the "trigger" wood concept is ANOTHER discussion, works with about every type of configuration and face cut/hinge design. And frankly, being able to step back for a second or closer look before cutting the hold wood can save your life vs. cutting into the hinge up close and personal looking up for a clue. Especially on trees like mine where the longer often dead or brittle branches are limb tied. Can reposition , plan an escape and cut & MOVE. Saved my arse many a time.
^^ you do realize that you are clarifying your own ignorance here right?
the face cut whether up or down does not effect the hold wood in any way shape or form, the steepness of the face cut however very much does, .
As for leaving the angled/sloped side on logs, $$ says the mills you deal with deduct for it just as ours here do, at least our mills aren't lying to us about it.
And yeah I can see on some timber how the crooked root flares can add value, in which case I would probably change my methods, however, its not nearly important enough on 99% of the timber out there to make a tinkers damn of difference in log quality, and in fact here, the stump flare is another thing you'll get a deduction from.
You keep calling me a bully, then harassing me, and everyone on the west coast? $'s to donuts I know I can cut timber on your side of the planet and make it pay, can you do the same here? Thats not arrogance or being a bully, simple facts.