Stihl 090 on ebay - opinions

Wesspur
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When it is custom work then i prefer to see the saw in person or know the person doing the custom work in order to have an appreciation for it. I know what to expect if it is original Stihl. If it goes cheap then all bets are off. Just the way i see it. Mark
 
A lot of equipment sold on Ebay has "fallen off the back of a truck"(new) or is used stolen:( . Be wary and purchase from legit sellers. If any proplems call Ebay asap!
 
what is such a saw worth a.) if it's original; and b.) if it's redone?

Also, which is preferable the gear drive or non-gear drive and what's the difference?

I'm looking at these just as a play-toy/showpiece
 
The gear drive is more suited for milling. If it's a show-only piece, the paint shouldn't matter. A saw is worth what a buyer is willing to pay. To my knowledge, there's not really a "Kelly blue book" on saw value, but I'm sure someone has compiled a partial list. Market forces (Supply & demand) play a big role. Since these saws aren't made anymore (090's) they tend to hold their value or even appreciate. Just about any Stihl Professional saw is like money in the bank.
 
oh nine oh

what is such a saw worth a.) if it's original; and b.) if it's redone
Also, which is preferable the gear drive or non-gear drive and what's the difference?
I'm looking at these just as a play-toy/showpiece
Today 05:34 PM

Steve here...
a.)
Late 090av's command blood if new or like new( $1800 $2000+), the earlier av's and standard 090's in like new I would say $1000+
b.) I would run the other way if it's not original(depending if your a collector or not)

c.) gear drive has some hard to find parts and has the smaller 070 cylinder and piston
 
I'd apoligize for the silliness of my questions, but I'm sure you're used to it from newbies...

SO what's "AV" and what's the difference between AV and non-AV? Is it "anti-vibration"? HOw is one to know if it's late-model or newer model? And if I just want a good-runnign saw to tear up some big wood every now and again (I already have an 880), do I care if it's been rebuilt? In fact, wouldn't rebuilt be better than getting one that's had a lot of its life run out of it?

And why is gear drive better for milling? If it has hard to find parts, sounds like it should be non-preferred....
 
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Yes AV stands for anti-vibe. The earlier ones had a bulky cage with av bushings atached to the saw. It worked but made the saw ungainly. Later AV models were much more streamlined. Also late model AV's were the last model of 090 sold here. Saying that the gear drive is better for milling than the direct drive is like saying a 963cat is better than a 953cat for planting roses. Both of these saws are so powerful that the point is moot. The 880 is a tough saw but until you have run a healthy 090 you just won't know what a monster really is. Yes a gear drive multiplies torque but it's still only multiplying about 7 horses verses about 10 for the direst drive. Also don't forget about the chainspeed advantage a direct drive has. I have a standard 090 that I built from a box of parts and have had had it in 56" red oak and never noticed any deficit in the torque department whatsoever. It doesn't matter wether you want it for show or work it is worth it. No stock saw works in really big wood like it period. Personally I use mine for work as I am lucky enough to do most of my cutting on a tree farm in the mountains with plenty of old growth hardwoods. I have used it for 6hrs. at a stretch and have never had a problem. Stihl also still carries most major parts.
 
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Hoss, and others, thanks for your help.

OK, let me distill it to this. Say you're a guy who's a dabbler/dillettante/ameteur hobbyist, who cuts about 10 cords of firewood a year and who LOVES Stihl and who has a 200T, 260, 029, 361, 460, 660, 880, and to complete the line-up wants a 090 which he will run maybe 1-2 hours a year just for kicks and will keep it 20+ years because he's anal retentive and takes very good care of a lot of good gear that he rarely ever uses....is the above saw listed on e-bay with 6 days left on bidding (starting bid 1450)the saw he should buy if he's willing to spend ~$2000 on an 090? Or should he wait for a better one? There's obviously no hurry.

Thanks again, guys, for your help and advice and comments.

Scott
 
I think the decision will ultimately come down to you. Everyone will have a opinion about a saw. Buy it only if you feel comfortable spending the money and trust the seller. If you don't feel comfortable bidding on one now, just do some research here using the search button and then you will have a better feeling about what to look for and what you want. Hope that helps.

Lastly, where abouts in Ohio are you located? I would love to stop by and try out that 880:greenchainsaw:.
 
Well, e-mail the seller and ask if he has done a compression test and if not would he mind doing one and let you know the results. He says he is a mechanic, so this should be no problem. If compression is really good (155+) then you probably won't find another this pretty that is not new or a complete repaint. So if you were willing to spend $2,000.00 and you are hellbent to have one, then get it. Assuming an honest seller it is not a rip-off. You already have the 880 so I don't assume this is an actual NEED issue. If you get one enjoy it and let us know what you think.
 
hoss said:
Well, e-mail the seller and ask if he has done a compression test and if not would he mind doing one and let you know the results. He says he is a mechanic, so this should be no problem. If compression is really good (155+) then you probably won't find another this pretty that is not new or a complete repaint. So if you were willing to spend $2,000.00 and you are hellbent to have one, then get it. Assuming an honest seller it is not a rip-off. You already have the 880 so I don't assume this is an actual NEED issue. If you get one enjoy it and let us know what you think.
Click to expand...

THat sounds like good advice. In fact, I already asked him about compression, and where he got the saw from, and if he has any photos of the saw before he worked on it and "polished" it. We'll see what he says, and I'll keep you all posted unless any more good advice comes along! Again, thanks! Scott
 
secondofangle said:
I disagree. THe plate on the starter side is totally different. Click on teh phtos and you'll see
Click to expand...

I see what you are saying,,,,, But,,,,,think about this,,,, I put a watch on the first listing and it went reserve not met,,,,, @ 760.00

Do you know how easy it is to change that plate.....It takes about ten minutes to change it,,,, the rivit holes are the same,,,,,, (CheapStihlParts sells just the tags or just the rivits if ya want)

Look @ the descriptions of the seller in both listings,,,,, there are somewhat similar to me......

Looks like to me,,,,, Now this is JMO,,,,, (You asked for it,,,,)

It didnt make what he wanted in the first auction,,,,, So he had some time to do some more window dressing,,,,,

Now hes spruced it up a bit more including the format of the auction,,,,,,,
Better pics,,,,,,,, bigger bar,,,,,, new cover plate,,,, more fresh paint!!!! put a starting bid @ twice what he was offerd in the first go!!!!


Heck fire him a message,,,,, ask him,,,,,
 
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