Building My First Mill
- Thread starter 820wards
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I only have the owners manual and it does not have a parts break down or part numbers for anything. It does have some recommendations for bars and chains. Your Husqvarna dealer should be able to get a parts breakdown for you.
Ryan
user 19670
ArboristSite Operative
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2007
- Messages
- 310
- Reaction score
- 41
You might PM me to see if I can help you
Last edited:
slabhead
ArboristSite Lurker
repair manuals
Here's a link to the factory service/repair manual for your 365. very complete w/ pics for only $5 download. I just downloaded manual for my H2100.If you have trouble paying by following the BUY IT NOW links, PAYPAL DIDN'T recognize that I had an item to pay for,so I just went to SEND MONEY, sent $5 to :[email protected] after checking the "goods" circle,then emailed Scott & told him why I sent him money-he immediately posted the link for the manual,which I downloaded, saved as PDF File,then printed.That was during normal working hours,he may not be there after hours,as I just followed the same steps for my 365 Special manual, & he hasn't posted link yet-duh! 2AM!WAKE UP! FYI all:he has manuals for most saws. I have no affilliation-just tried him after exhaustive Google search.Hope this helps.
Here's a link to the factory service/repair manual for your 365. very complete w/ pics for only $5 download. I just downloaded manual for my H2100.If you have trouble paying by following the BUY IT NOW links, PAYPAL DIDN'T recognize that I had an item to pay for,so I just went to SEND MONEY, sent $5 to :[email protected] after checking the "goods" circle,then emailed Scott & told him why I sent him money-he immediately posted the link for the manual,which I downloaded, saved as PDF File,then printed.That was during normal working hours,he may not be there after hours,as I just followed the same steps for my 365 Special manual, & he hasn't posted link yet-duh! 2AM!WAKE UP! FYI all:he has manuals for most saws. I have no affilliation-just tried him after exhaustive Google search.Hope this helps.
slabhead
ArboristSite Lurker
mill
820ward: would you consider building an aluminum mill,w/o oiler, for a 42" bar?
820ward: would you consider building an aluminum mill,w/o oiler, for a 42" bar?
Slabhead,
I am not familiar with the larger saw that would be used for milling, and if they have the capability to increase the oil flow to the chain which you would need when milling dried wood. The mill I'm building is using a power-head that does not have an internal oiler so I'm adding a manual pump to oil my bar as I mill. It will be a duel port pump with a check valve so I will be able to oil the power-head and nose end of the mill simultaneously without getting air in the lines.
So to answer you question should you oil the nose? Yes I would!
Long bars don't come cheep and a nose oiler can be fabricated or purchased and added to you bar pretty easily. If you do a search for bar nose oilers you will find one that a very experienced miller from Texas built for his mill real inexpensively.
jerry-
Slabhead,
Thanks for the info. Sorry getting back to you so late. Been remodeling a bathroom on the honey-do list. Almost done.
jerry
Well, I had time today to do some more work on the mill. I welded up the aluminum gas tank that I will be using on the mill. I also changed the rails I was using to some aluminum uni-strut. BobL suggested that I be sure to add additional center rails to keep the saw blade level when I come to the end of a cut. BobL, I added two because I will be using them for mounting a second handle for when I have a helper working with me. I'm getting some aluminum brackets sheered at my brothers shop that I will use to bolt the two braces to the uni-strut.
Making the handles for the operators to hold the mill, throttle linkage, a nose/clutch guard and an exhaust pipe, two oil lines/pump and I'll just about be done. I'll post more pictures as I add more to the mill.
jerry-
parrisw
Tree Freak
parrisw
Tree Freak
Its reputation, your rep on this site. On the left side of the page near the top in the green bar, click on User CP, that will tell you your rep points, and all the rep you have recieved. To give someone rep you click on the "scales" under the persons name on the left side near the bottom of the post.
aggiewoodbutchr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice. I REALLY want to learn how to weld aluminum. I guess I need a TIG first...
MotorSeven
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nah, a mig with a spool gun will do it........i am looking for one for my millermatic 210 so one of these days i can weld AL.
RD
If you can mig weld, I would say go that direction first. Then, look at what you need to weld, is it thick or thin? Mig welding thin aluminum can be pretty tricky on thin materials and it must be clean weather you are mig or tig before you start welding and I recommend your mig welder be using gas. I think they make flux core aluminum mig wire, but don't know how good it works. I only use pure argon gas and sometimes helium for fancy aluminum welding.
Now, if you are a GOOD gas welder then I would consider a water cooled tig welder. An air cooled tig welder has a tendency to blow through when welding thin metals because you need more air pressure to cool the tig torch. The plus for a tig welder is the preciseness of the welds you can make on ferrous and non-ferrous metals, you can even weld copper when you get good. A good tungsten size to start with is 3/32", I find I can weld about 99% of what I want with that size. I have tungsten ranging from .020" - 1/8" in pure tungsten for ferrous and 2% for aluminum.
Some personal advise is practice, practice, practice on some scrap pieces before you start welding on your good pieces.
jerry-
Jerry, good work on the tanks, are you going to polish them up - huh - huh - go on! they will look really good :biggrinbounce2:
Make sure the caps attach really tightly. My brass aux oiler cap came off while I was milling and dropped onto the WOT chain and was flung into my face guard - it was like being hit in the face shield with a baseball.
Make sure the caps attach really tightly. My brass aux oiler cap came off while I was milling and dropped onto the WOT chain and was flung into my face guard - it was like being hit in the face shield with a baseball.
Bob,
I have a friend who has some polishing wheels, so we are thinking of polishing them and then having them powder coated in a clear color. There is a place not 10 minutes from where I live that does powder coating. Maybe a nice bright clear green. The stuff is tough and won't scratch as easily as anodizing.
As for the caps, I was planning to put a short chain on them with a spring spreader on them like the older saws used. Good call!
jerry-
Worked on the mill some today.
* Added gusset bracing on the main rails.
* Support tube for mounting gas tank and one oil tank. (Black)
* Fabricated shroud for nose of bar from aluminum and will mount on piece that clamps the nose of the bar. I will be adding tabs that will use nut-zerts for bolting the shroud one and off for easy access when changing chains, etc.
Going to work on the brackets that will hold the tanks on tomorrow, shouldn't take long.
jerry-
Similar threads
