024AV stock carb settings (helping a friend)

[ken morgan]

A buddy of mine has a 024 that recently started running bad (his description) my investigation seems more ot the fact he was playing with the carb setting and got it hopelessy farked. initially with his description i suspected a bad hose, but after I played with the carb a little I managed to get it started but seems like I either get a flat spot out of idle or no upper end power depending upon how i set the carb. anybody know the stock settings for the carb?

 

[Graeme Butt]

Hi
11/4 turns out for the low speed, 1 turn out for the high speed. Tweak your low speed to get rid of the flat spot, and your high speed to get the top end right. If it’s worn and has low compression, then you may be able to overcome the poor running with carb adjustments to a degree, it it will be hard to tune. It would help to give the full fuel system a good clean, and check over before you start.
Cheers


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[ken morgan]

Hi
11/4 turns out for the low speed, 1 turn out for the high speed. Tweak your low speed to get rid of the flat spot, and your high speed to get the top end right. If it’s worn and has low compression, then you may be able to overcome the poor running with carb adjustments to a degree, it it will be hard to tune. It would help to give the full fuel system a good clean, and check over before you start.
Cheers


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thanks GB,

a compression check and a full service on the carb are probably needed but wanted to get the carb close enough to stock to start with before going any further with it.

 

[Graeme Butt]

thanks GB,

a compression check and a full service on the carb are probably needed but wanted to get the carb close enough to stock to start with before going any further with it.

Those settings will get it running, and hopefully cure the problem. Fingers crossed!!


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[LoveStihlQuality]

Possible start of an air leak symptom of not tuning.

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[ken morgan]

Possible start of an air leak symptom of not tuning.

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thats my initial thought but being that he played with the carb while admitting that he has never been able to master that particular trade i thought it best if I set it to basically stock and see what happens, like I siad I got it running but with a slight hesitation off idle. once it was warmed up it was Ok but nothing spectacular so i want to take it back close to stock settings (or at least compare what I have now to them) and then elvauate it from their. I don't have block off plates for Stihl's (nor have I ever tore one down) but it can't be too far off from any other chainsaw I would think and I can gin up a set of plates out of aluminum or something to block it with for a pressure test at least.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

thats my initial thought but being that he played with the carb while admitting that he has never been able to master that particular trade i thought it best if I set it to basically stock and see what happens, like I siad I got it running but with a slight hesitation off idle. once it was warmed up it was Ok but nothing spectacular so i want to take it back close to stock settings (or at least compare what I have now to them) and then elvauate it from their. I don't have block off plates for Stihl's (nor have I ever tore one down) but it can't be too far off from any other chainsaw I would think and I can gin up a set of plates out of aluminum or something to block it with for a pressure test at least.

Yeah. Start standard sequence, new fuel etc. What was symptom that led him to monkey carb to begin with?

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[SEAM]

Does it seem to basically run too rich (choke flap return spring in the air filter might be disengaged/lame) or too lean (impulse hose might leak) in the higher rpm range?

 

[ken morgan]

to answer in order: he was probably trying to adjust for the altitude after watching me do so. He has not admitted that he did mess with the carb....just the oblique reference that he could never figure them out and always made a hash of them, along with a request for help and a non starting saw.

SEAM, your choke return idea might bear looking into:

saw woulds not start choked or unchoked. compressed air cleaning of filter and saw in general (pulled of air filter not overly dirty) blew out. dumped gas from his prior attempt at starting it as I have no clue as to its age, (though it smelled fresh who knows?) fresh 40:1 no start, after multiple try's i pulled plug, flipped saw upside down and cranked no excess came form the spark plug hole but the plug itself was oily. cleaned plug with parts cleaning/wire brush checked gap dried off plug with compressed air put her in and it semi started choked. unchoked tried again and after playing with it a little got it to run for more than a couple of seconds. At that time it idled very slow and every time I pulled the trigger it stalled so I let it idle about a minute and then turned the idle speed screw up about1/8 of a turn and got it to idle a little faster it no longer stalled but bogged quite a bit if I hit the throttle. played with the low speed to eliminate the bog and had no luck, so I then played with the high side and got rid of say 99% of the bogging but it would not run very well at high speed, so I reversed things and went the other way got it to run somewhat OK at higher RPM but then the bog was back. never would properly 2stroke/4 stroke out fo the cut...seemed like it was overly rich the entire time.... my tach was at yokosuka and not the cabin, so I could not tach it to see what its RPM's were but it seemed a lot lower than any of my huskqvarna's do at WOT.

what is the no load speed for this unit out fo the cut?

 

[SEAM]

... 13,000-13,500 rpm -- I usually tune them to 12,500 rpm or so.

To check the choke try running it with the air cleaner removed...

 

[trappermike]

If it hesitates off idle then you need to slightly richen the low speed,but put a kit in it if it hasn't been done. Also when the 024 came out they had an erratic idle speed,it would just go up and down while it sat there.Stihl eventually sent a bulletin saying that air was leaking around the threads of the low speed screw and that a little sealer on the screw threads would fix it,but it didn't. Over the next couple years I tried every carb mod I could think of but nothing worked and they were all like that from new,I just came to accept it as a minor quirk of the saw,they were good saws otherwise.

 

[captain dangers]

I personally would pull the muffler/exhaust off and check for scoring/partially stuck ring, this era of saws are known for coking up on the exhaust port and damaging the piston/compression. carbon builds up on the exhaust port and eventually flakes off and can get sucked into the cylinder and cause damage. I put this down to them being quite heavily restricted and recommend muffler modding to keep the exhaust port clear of any future build up of carbon ? just my opinion, but its what I have been doing to a number of these saws from 024-066 , they all appear to suffer the same old coke habit, snorting it in and damaging the piston on stock mufflers ? well the ones I have worked on have anyway. CD

 

[trappermike]

You are exactly right on that,a restrictive muffler will cause the burnt oil in the exhaust to re-condense as oil and carbon in the muffler or exhaust port,a free-flowing muffler prevents that. But I never realized it was a coke habit,haha thanks.

 

[ken morgan]

thanks for the feed back folks, I will not get a chance to look at it until the weekend after next as scheduling conflicts are keeping me from the cabin.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Be sure you check compression. The 024 I have acted this way. Compression was down to 105 psi. I replaced the top end. Now it runs fine with 145 psi compression. Good idle, good power, sometimes that's all it takes.

 

[ken morgan]

Be sure you check compression. The 024 I have acted this way. Compression was down to 105 psi. I replaced the top end. Now it runs fine with 145 psi compression. Good idle, good power, sometimes that's all it takes.

OK so Compression is down to 115~120ish no scoring on the cylinder, or the piston....reset the carb to stock settings and quick tune in the cut and it runs fine...no vacuum leaks or pressure leaks, saw works fine in all positions....feeling feisty i told my friend it was a 6 pack of tall boy asahi's to get it back....he is a Former British Royal Marine, so in proper fashion...he offered a bottle of whiskey instead...all is well that ends well.

 

[captain dangers]

OK so Compression is down to 115~120ish no scoring on the cylinder, or the piston....reset the carb to stock settings and quick tune in the cut and it runs fine...no vacuum leaks or pressure leaks, saw works fine in all positions....feeling feisty i told my friend it was a 6 pack of tall boy asahi's to get it back....he is a Former British Royal Marine, so in proper fashion...he offered a bottle of whiskey instead...all is well that ends well.

ideally it will need a new piston ring, its still prety low on compression. I would definitely go for a muffler mod to, those really wake these saws up ;o) CD

 

[ken morgan]

ideally it will need a new piston ring, its still prety low on compression. I would definitely go for a muffler mod to, those really wake these saws up ;o) CD

that will boil down to the owner, he just put in an order for a carb rebuild kit on my recommendation as his has not been torn apart in a while, I will ask him if the cost of a piston ring is OK to order....hell he might even let me port it a bit if I play it off as a maintenance item