026 carburetor Tech Help Please

[Greenclimber]

Fixed it. I had the gasket facing the wrong direction. Part number 32 was right, but part number 31 was not... I did open up the muffler a bit.

I made 2 more holes the same size of whatever the original factory size hole was behind the spark-arrestor. I didn't adjust the carbs correctly. Can't tell if it's to rich or not... it sounds funny, and doesn't have tons of power. It's not running lean. What is this "4 stroking at WOT" I heard about? I think I am supposed to make it run rich, and the back it off a bit toward the lean side?

 

[rd35]

At WOT (wide open throttle) it should 4-stroke (fires every other cycle) under a no-load condition (engine free spinning). If you screw the H needle clockwise (inward) this reduces the amount of gas getting through the high speed jet resulting in a leaner burn and the 4-stroking effect is reduced allowing the engine to over-rev (spin too fast). If you run these saws too lean the cylinder gets hot and the amount of lubrication is reduced which can cause cylinder damage and, sometimes, seizure of the engine. So, if you can tune the engine to get that "4-stroke" effect to happen under no-load near the top of the rpm range then it is tuned correctly. Testing it by putting it under load (such as putting the saw into a cut making the engine pull hard) it should stop 4-stroking and produce maximum power without damaging the cylinder. I always start off with the H set rich and then lean it out until I get the desired amount of 4-stroke at WOT with no load.

 

[K7NUT]

I know this is an OLD thread, but I am dealing with the same issue, same saw!
I bought a chink carb off Amazon too, neither one will stop puking a sooty flow of gas out the muffler, if I can get her fired up? I am going to pull the OEM carb apart again and see if I didn't put something in bas-akwards too?
BTW I also did a new P&C and crankcase seals, but the issue was there before that anyway. This 026 is frustrating the crap out of me!?

Been awhile since I've posted, you guys are the best!

 

[Mad Professor]

I know this is an OLD thread, but I am dealing with the same issue, same saw!
I bought a chink carb off Amazon too, neither one will stop puking a sooty flow of gas out the muffler, if I can get her fired up? I am going to pull the OEM carb apart again and see if I didn't put something in bas-akwards too?
BTW I also did a new P&C and crankcase seals, but the issue was there before that anyway. This 026 is frustrating the crap out of me!?

Been awhile since I've posted, you guys are the best!

What sort of P/C and seals?

 

[K7NUT]

What sort of P/C and seals?

These are the kits, I see the 044 is cHINA, I do not remember where that one was ordered from?
The seals I believe were from Amazon, maybe the 044 P&C were too. I spent a couple hours taking apart/cleaning that 044, because the crank seals are shot and my friend bought this as-is.

I can’t log in on my laptop, I don’t know how to change my info, like email & password, I don’t know how I can get in on my iphone?
It’s been awhile

 

[K7NUT]

These are the kits, I see the 044 is cHINA, I do not remember where that one was ordered from?
The seals I believe were from Amazon, maybe the 044 P&C were too. I spent a couple hours taking apart/cleaning that 044, because the crank seals are shot and my friend bought this as-is.

I can’t log in on my laptop, I don’t know how to change my info, like email & password, I don’t know how I can get in on my iphone?
It’s been awhile

I figured it out, back on AS.com

 

[stihltech]

My 026 Pro is similarly equipped w/ the Lo-only carb (and although rich, it did run mostly fine).
Do some searching, there's old AS threads on muff-modding w/ this carb. In a nutshell, this combo did tend to run rich so one fix is a modest muff mod. I poked an add'l 5/16" hole beneath the original single hole on my muff's outlet which perked up the saw noticeably, pretty much alleviating the richness issues while still keeping some healthy 4-stroking burble @ WOT.

I'm certain the saw has a bit more easy hp to be found with a fully adjustable carb, but the simple muff mod fix took 15min and required no aggravation. Ideal cost:benefit in my book. If someday I run out of other projects maybe i'll pursue the WT194 upgrade, but for now the quick fix is darn good.

YES!!! Somebody listened! Thank you!

 

[ZeroJunk]

As far as the OEM 026 carb, make sure you didn't put the metering diaphragm under the gasket.

 

[K7NUT]

I know this is an OLD thread, but I am dealing with the same issue, same saw!
I bought a chink carb off Amazon too, neither one will stop puking a sooty flow of gas out the muffler, if I can get her fired up? I am going to pull the OEM carb apart again and see if I didn't put something in bas-akwards too?
BTW I also did a new P&C and crankcase seals, but the issue was there before that anyway. This 026 is frustrating the crap out of me!?

Been awhile since I've posted, you guys are the best!

I found my trouble with the 026.
After going through the carb for the third time and a new P&C, I figured the problem wasn’t on the fuel side. I pulled the coil, even unscrewed the plug wire…that’s when I saw it, stud was missing, found it stuck in the end of the wire. We’re waiting for a Meteor P&C for his 044 and with it, 24” of spark plug wire. Still can not figure out how, that stud got broke down inside the coil cave?
A mystery, but just glad it’s solved!
Going to use the coil from a “parts” 044.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have come across a few coil/modules with the stud rusted off or just badly rusted, It`s fairly wet around these parts and saws are often run in the rain and snow. Water finds it way in around the coil tower and makes its way down to that metal stud,think its just steel, inter mitten fire episodes has me checking the connection between the high tension lead and that stud quite often. When replacing high tension wires I seal them in with silicone grease, tried RTV and found it still leaked but the grease stays flexible and seals better for me.