recently did a muffler mod on a new to me 029 super. cut one tree before this but now it stalls out when i let the throttle go. it will run fine cuts great but every once in a while when i let the trigger go it just boggs out. normally starts fiarly easy after but sometimes it can be difficult. is this possibly a tuning issue? the stalling is very sporadic. any help is greatly appreciated. thank you.
029 stalling
- Thread starter mbayer
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lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
check the carb settings
I guess if it was getting air through a cracked fuel line, it would over rev, but you might want to see if the fuel line is good. Could be cracked and just starving for fuel.
I assume you had the carb adjusted after the muff mod though. If you didn't, better get that done first and go from there.
I guess if it was getting air through a cracked fuel line, it would over rev, but you might want to see if the fuel line is good. Could be cracked and just starving for fuel.
I assume you had the carb adjusted after the muff mod though. If you didn't, better get that done first and go from there.
southbound
ArboristSite Guru
Yup did you tune the carb after the muffler mod???
Have the same problem on my 029. Has been doing it on and off for a good while. Just had a carb kit put in to fix another problem, and it did not help the stalling problem. Adjusted the H and L screws, seems to be no help there. New fuel line also. Will run good when in a big cut. Stalling increases when doing limbing.
this sounds exactly like mine. big cuts actually seem to help have you ever tried to open up the fuel vent or anything like that. and you siad tuning didnt help. i read somewhere else that a bad coil or spark plug wire could do this, any thoughts suggestoins.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
Try running it in different positions
This sort of thing is usually something simple.
Did you tune it with a fresh air and fuel filter? If not, have both replaced and try again. My dealer recommends a fresh fuel filter every season. Apparently they stiffen over time and won't hit the necessary rate of fuel flow. Yours could be getting bad and just starving the carb.
Is it related at all to what position the saw is in at the time? The fuel filter and hose should flop around inside the tank so it's always getting fuel as the saw is put into various positions. It could be the line is cracked inside the tank, and in certain positions the crack admits air to the line, starving the saw of fuel. I have read on AS that fuel lines are issues on this saw, but I've never seen it happen on my 029S or on my 039.
You might want to crank it up and try and run it upside down, sideways, etc to see what happens. Use a 1/3 tank of fuel though. If the tank is full of gas a crack in the line won't be exposed to the air, and it will run fine.
You could just have some trash in the carb.
This sort of thing is usually something simple.
Did you tune it with a fresh air and fuel filter? If not, have both replaced and try again. My dealer recommends a fresh fuel filter every season. Apparently they stiffen over time and won't hit the necessary rate of fuel flow. Yours could be getting bad and just starving the carb.
Is it related at all to what position the saw is in at the time? The fuel filter and hose should flop around inside the tank so it's always getting fuel as the saw is put into various positions. It could be the line is cracked inside the tank, and in certain positions the crack admits air to the line, starving the saw of fuel. I have read on AS that fuel lines are issues on this saw, but I've never seen it happen on my 029S or on my 039.
You might want to crank it up and try and run it upside down, sideways, etc to see what happens. Use a 1/3 tank of fuel though. If the tank is full of gas a crack in the line won't be exposed to the air, and it will run fine.
You could just have some trash in the carb.
i just tore into my ms290 the other day...it is a ##### of a saw to take apart and put together, the 1 saving grace is all the screws r the same size....mine would cut fine take hand off throttle then die, only when hot. i replaced the imulse line and fuel tank line, havent noticed any cracks in my fuel line, but it was very soft from years os soaking...the new fuel line is rigid and makes the filter sit at the bottom...also the coil was completly caked with oil soaked dust, cleaned everything and reassembled runs great, haven't gotten to cut with it yet but i had to readjust the L out.idk why but the boot clamp on the boot from the cylinder to carb was slightly loose........only other thing i can think of if it stalls after this is crank seals. my saw has high compression though....It never stalled while cutting only when done cutting and letting off throttle.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
may want to check the coil
mbayer,
Not clear from your post as to whether or not you had the carb properly tuned. I think the process is new air and fuel filter, new plug properly gapped, then have the carb set by a dealer.
Dumb question, but is your fuel fresh? Mixed in the last 30 days fresh? And do you shake the can well before you refuel your saw to mix it well?
I think it is possible as well that you could have a bad coil. What I'd do is go run it until it dies again, then check for spark at the spark plug. Pull the plug, look at the gap in the electrode to make sure there's no carbon fouling it (which would kill the spark), and then ground the plug against the head with insulated pliers and pull the cord. You should see a bright blue spark in the plug gap. If you have this, but the saw will not start, then I think you have a fuel problem. Could be possibly getting too hot and vapor locking, but this is not common with your saw.
Some saws do get too hot and I think this can affect the coil as well, but I think if that happens you will easily know that because you'll have no spark at the plug gap.
You may want to pull the starter cover and make certain the flywheel fan is not choked up with crud and that the cooling fins on the cylinder head are clean so they will dissipate heat. Also make sure the carb heating shutter is installed to summer position. Sometimes people put this back in on the winter setting and don't realize there's a difference. Don't know if it would make much difference where you live, but it's there to prevent carb icing in cold conditions.
There are various additives that you can use to clean up a carb. Other members may have suggestions, but I'd use Sea Foam if it were mine. You measure it out and add it to the gas.
The other poster just indicated he'd put in a carb kit. I imagine his carb was cleaned at the same time.
You only need fuel, compression, and ignition to make this saw run. If it's running, you have compression. If you can see the spark right after it shuts down, you've got spark. That leaves a fuel problem of some kind.
Good luck. There are far better experts than me on this saw lurking on AS, maybe they'll see your thread and offer better advice.
mbayer,
Not clear from your post as to whether or not you had the carb properly tuned. I think the process is new air and fuel filter, new plug properly gapped, then have the carb set by a dealer.
Dumb question, but is your fuel fresh? Mixed in the last 30 days fresh? And do you shake the can well before you refuel your saw to mix it well?
I think it is possible as well that you could have a bad coil. What I'd do is go run it until it dies again, then check for spark at the spark plug. Pull the plug, look at the gap in the electrode to make sure there's no carbon fouling it (which would kill the spark), and then ground the plug against the head with insulated pliers and pull the cord. You should see a bright blue spark in the plug gap. If you have this, but the saw will not start, then I think you have a fuel problem. Could be possibly getting too hot and vapor locking, but this is not common with your saw.
Some saws do get too hot and I think this can affect the coil as well, but I think if that happens you will easily know that because you'll have no spark at the plug gap.
You may want to pull the starter cover and make certain the flywheel fan is not choked up with crud and that the cooling fins on the cylinder head are clean so they will dissipate heat. Also make sure the carb heating shutter is installed to summer position. Sometimes people put this back in on the winter setting and don't realize there's a difference. Don't know if it would make much difference where you live, but it's there to prevent carb icing in cold conditions.
There are various additives that you can use to clean up a carb. Other members may have suggestions, but I'd use Sea Foam if it were mine. You measure it out and add it to the gas.
The other poster just indicated he'd put in a carb kit. I imagine his carb was cleaned at the same time.
You only need fuel, compression, and ignition to make this saw run. If it's running, you have compression. If you can see the spark right after it shuts down, you've got spark. That leaves a fuel problem of some kind.
Good luck. There are far better experts than me on this saw lurking on AS, maybe they'll see your thread and offer better advice.
awesome feedback
thanks so much for the feedback with details this means alot to me cant afford to run o the dealer all the time and am pretty new to chainsaws i will be working on my saw tomorrow hopefully iil have good news thanks agian
thanks so much for the feedback with details this means alot to me cant afford to run o the dealer all the time and am pretty new to chainsaws i will be working on my saw tomorrow hopefully iil have good news thanks agian
outdoortype
ArboristSite Guru
Cutting a larger log would raise the temp. more than limbing so your coil is probably ok. If the saw dies upon accellaration than maybe you need to richen the L jet and or turn the T screw in a tad.
southbound
ArboristSite Guru
Give your dealer a call mine will set a carb for free...I let them set all mine now that I know...
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Where's FISH.... He's our 029/290 expert.
How did the saw run before the muffler mod? Did it do the same thing or not? Fuel line might be good but check the impulse line, better yet replace it and see how it runs then!!
How did the saw run before the muffler mod? Did it do the same thing or not? Fuel line might be good but check the impulse line, better yet replace it and see how it runs then!!
sefh3
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do they do it for free on a modded saw? I'm guessing they won't because it is not standard equipment.
impulse line
alright bare with me what and where is the impulse line, like i said earlier im pretty new to chainsaw saws and very new to anything other than regular maintenance. however i checked the plug today it is clean fuel ventisnt closed off but very little air flows through it, not sure if that is normal. I flipped my whachamacallit over to the summer positoin stupid newb mistake. fins and everything are clean.I ran it for a little bit but have nothing to cut yet. it stalled once but i dont think it was warmed up yet, so im gonna try to cut with it and see if it still does it.if so then i will check spark and more than likely have to replace the coil.
alright bare with me what and where is the impulse line, like i said earlier im pretty new to chainsaw saws and very new to anything other than regular maintenance. however i checked the plug today it is clean fuel ventisnt closed off but very little air flows through it, not sure if that is normal. I flipped my whachamacallit over to the summer positoin stupid newb mistake. fins and everything are clean.I ran it for a little bit but have nothing to cut yet. it stalled once but i dont think it was warmed up yet, so im gonna try to cut with it and see if it still does it.if so then i will check spark and more than likely have to replace the coil.
Fish
Tree Freak
Inspect the fuel line closely from the carb to the tank, you will likely see some
cracks, right under the air filter.
If you still see no cracks, then you should go through the carb correctly,
it is not hard to do.
cracks, right under the air filter.
If you still see no cracks, then you should go through the carb correctly,
it is not hard to do.
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