031 AV Stihl won't start

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Roly

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Gents, I know the this is likely a no-brainer for y'all Sawmen, so here's what I got:

My good old saw sat for 4 months since I last used it, and I had it running strong on a recent carb kit in late Fall. It has started for me after periods of idleness for 6 years.

I gave it a new plug, new gas with a shot of Seafoam, cleaned the air filter, and can see that the gas filter is good. After pulling till my arm is tired a few times, I pulled the plug and see that it is wet with gas. I find the air filter screen is dripping gas.

I have a bunch of work for this saw, and don't want to buy a new one. I need to avoid the local shop if I can. Any suggestions as to what's wrong?

Thanks in advance, Roly
 
how do you check spark?

I thought about how to pull the starter rope and hold a jumper near the plug, but didn't see how, and don't have a special setup for this. How do you do it?

I never got a manual with this saw, so I do not have a carb setting procedure, either.

If you can think of me as an idiot child, even though I am a gnarly Nam vet over 60, I might be able to learn something good.

Thanks, Roly
 
Dry off the plug and let it rest against the cylinder where you can see the gap. With the ignition switch on, give it a pull and you should see some blue, that is, if the plug stays there. May take a few tries...

Carb setting is usually 1 turn out H and L

Carb metering arm should be flush with the body...
 
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Thanks. That is pretty simple. I think I used to know more than I now do.

Is there a generic carb adjusting protocol?

Roly

turn both high and low right until resistance is felt, and then open both (left turn) one full turn. Start there, adjust, depending on saw.
 
I'll go out and try these things in the morning.

I appreciate the advice.

Roly

Pull the plug and check for spark first, or the carb adjustments will just be futile. Also, have you checked the saws compresssion? Just another piece to the puzzle.
 
031 AV WILL start

Well! You guys are great. I checked and saw spark, then reset the needle valves out 1 rev. It started, but acted boggy. I tweaked the screws (very little) and it is now running like it stole itself!

With no manual, I really don't know which carb screw is which. If someone could tell me which (forward or aft) is idle and which is fast, I would be better off.

I don't think this saw has run so strong since I owned it. I got good improvement with the carb kit last year, but must not have got the set screws tweaked right then.

The only needed improvement now is a new bar. My Stihl 20" bar is worn such that turning it over does not hold the chain too good. I see Oregon bars, Stihl ($) bars, and generic ebay bars from who knows where. Any advise here?

Thanks so much, Roly
 
Well! You guys are great. I checked and saw spark, then reset the needle valves out 1 rev. It started, but acted boggy. I tweaked the screws (very little) and it is now running like it stole itself!

With no manual, I really don't know which carb screw is which. If someone could tell me which (forward or aft) is idle and which is fast, I would be better off.

I don't think this saw has run so strong since I owned it. I got good improvement with the carb kit last year, but must not have got the set screws tweaked right then.

The only needed improvement now is a new bar. My Stihl 20" bar is worn such that turning it over does not hold the chain too good. I see Oregon bars, Stihl ($) bars, and generic ebay bars from who knows where. Any advise here?

Thanks so much, Roly


Be very careful with the crappy ethanol gas. Run your saw out of gas if it is going to sit for more than a couple weeks.

The screw closest to the engine is always the L on two strokes. Make sure it is tuned correctly.

I have had ethanol destroy my metering gaskets in my 031s in less than 3 months. You can buy k10 WAT kits on ebay for about $5 shipped (although some 031s had HU3C Tillotson carbs.....)

Stihl Rollomatic E bars are about the same price or a little cheaper than Oregon bars. They are an excellent value in my opinion. I have had very good luck with their durability (sprocket nose require zero maintenance, and they are not as easy to bend as other bars).
 
Glad to hear you got her running!

If your bar is just not holding the chain tight, try Bailey's bar rail closer. It's a little awkword to use, but it does work (just don't close them too tight.)

If your bar is really worked over and needs to be replaced... Well, that's probably going to be a few bucks...
 
Well! You guys are great. I checked and saw spark, then reset the needle valves out 1 rev. It started, but acted boggy. I tweaked the screws (very little) and it is now running like it stole itself!

With no manual, I really don't know which carb screw is which. If someone could tell me which (forward or aft) is idle and which is fast, I would be better off.

I don't think this saw has run so strong since I owned it. I got good improvement with the carb kit last year, but must not have got the set screws tweaked right then.

The only needed improvement now is a new bar. My Stihl 20" bar is worn such that turning it over does not hold the chain too good. I see Oregon bars, Stihl ($) bars, and generic ebay bars from who knows where. Any advise here?

Thanks so much, Roly

Before I can advise as to buying a new bar or not, I would have to see a pic of your current 20". Have you ever dressed this bar to prevent it from ruining itself? How often to you turn it? You will quickly learn that pics can help out alot here on AS.
 
I was wondering if someone can give me some advice...I have an older Stihl chainsaw with the atom electronic ignition..the saw will run properly for about 10 minutes or so, then stop running, and will not start until it has cooled down....I have looked over many threads, and have read about checking the tank vent as a possible problem, however the tank vent on mine is new...
 

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